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#1
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w124 sliding jaw, please help!
I searched a LOT on here and I think this is the first time I've ever come up completely empty handed. Anyway, a week ago my window decided it didn't want to roll up all the way (about 2" from top). I took things apart but didn't see any immediate issues, verified that the motor was working, and that the slider would go all the way to the top without binding. A search revealed this was a common problem with the sliding jaw. So, I order the $6 sliding jaw from this site and here (pics) is what it looks like. I did go back to make sure I didn't pick the wrong year or model or anything. I am completely baffled...how the heck does this thing attach??? There is nothing on w124 sliding jaw repair, only w126 which is a different part. I apologize for the blurriness, I can take better pictures tomorrow if I get a chance.
What I got: My regulator and existing jaw: Next to each other: There is no pivoting metal clip, the rivet hole is there to attach the thing, but the rest of the plastic piece gets in the way. And honestly, I don't even see anything wrong with the existing sliding jaw.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#2
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What you bought is the cushion that runs at the bottom of the window assembly, common failue makes the window rattle when closing the door with the window open.
The other photo, I don't know what that's called, I replaced the lift mechanism when I had one of those broken, but somewhere here someone outlined how to drill the rivet out and replace it, going to be a lot of searching if nobody saved the link.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#3
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I just went through this on the SD. I still cant figure out why mercedes would use plastic on a piece like this....Its used so much over the life span of the vehicle and that window isn't necessariliy light....
I drilled out the rivet and used a bolt/nut and washers to get mine fixed. I just had to make sure the washer was the right size to fit in the slide and the bolt was small enough to fit through the hole the rivet was in.
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VegStew 1983 300SD 70,000 WVO Powered miles 1990 300D In driveway with Head Off - Cracked |
#4
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In the w126, only the rectangular square piece is replaced (riveted on), and the whole thing is sitting on the common "jaws" type of regulator as opposed to the cable type. I think my problem is that the metal piece pictured above is able to pivot, where it should stay on the cable/spring mechanism. I still have no idea what to do with the white plastic piece...there is no way to rivet it on there even if I wanted to, nor is there a way to attach the cable. Still completely mystified...Maybe my best chance is to J-B weld the metal piece in place and unplug the motor, hopefully it'll stay up but would make the window inoperable until I get a new regulator.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#5
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Bump...nobody has replaced a sliding jaw in a w124??
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#6
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bump......
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#7
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I just wanted to draw you attention to the 210 models and our rear window
regulator...which is apparently equally problematic. What we found is that the majority of the time, a plastic piece fractures, overstressed by the wire cable ends. Though no direct, plug n play part exists, there is a part assembly which only costs <$10. In making this repair however, we must drill out the metal pivot post, swap pieces, then reassemble. This repair is 99% labor but it saves us $50-100 so that is a consideration each shade tree mechanic needs to determine, ie is the cost benefit ratio worth the time spent? The square nylon slider is the one which ride the horiz channel at the bottom of the window/track, right? If it is indeed the part which is failing and pre- venting the window from fully closing the last 2", I'm not quite picturing how it has failed. Usually I find that it's the vertical track which fails on the 210s. hmmm..... headscratcher
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-- raymond~ 47º 34'N 122º 18'W |
#8
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Can you direct me to a part number and source for this part? Picture maybe?
Quote:
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#9
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mine looked exactly the same as yours.
I flipped the part back onto the track and stuck a bolt in it.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#10
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I'm not the OP, and I've got pieces of broken plastic to replace (your repair is not an option for me). I'd really like to install a new part, but don't want to pay $140+ when all I need is a $5 piece of plastic.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#11
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Found this thread in another forum which describes how to use the 210 part in a 124 rear window, will also work for a 201.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1332991-kajtek1-window-regulator-question.html Part number is 210 720 00 42.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC Last edited by Maxbumpo; 06-21-2011 at 07:04 AM. Reason: Added part number |
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