After sitting on a set of new bosios for nearly three years, I finally decided it was time to install them. I took an extra set of old injectors to Gus at Pacific Fuel Injection who installed new bosio injector tips into old body and balanced them for pattern and pop pressure (10 bar over stock for older motors) The job went smoothly and at the same time, I decided to do a compression test and came up with these readings 320/360/320/310/360 - curious to do a valve adjustment to see if these readings change as it is just about time to do so but not bad for an engine with 340,000! Engine fired right up and I immediately noticed a much more even stronger idle. Very smooth acceleration and seems especially smooth driving off from a stop! The pintles on my old injectors were almost non existent which made me wonder if these were original injectors! None the less, the previous injectors worked fine and my car has always been a strong runner. I look forward to these injectors breaking in over the next couple of hundred miles and will report back. A few things that worked well for me were the right socket for removing injectors, loosening injector line brackets (4) slightly so lines had wiggle room for reinstallation, a swiveling crow foot (17mm) for loosening and tightening injection line nuts, and I also discovered something that made installing return lines much easier. My old lines were about two years old -not ancient but fairly hard which makes installation harder so I used new braided line which I had on hand -makes a world of difference! Second, it is my belief that the return line nipples on injector bodies sometimes get angled toward the injector body which makes line installation difficult. I took a small screwdriver and very carefully wedged tip between body and nipple to create more space by using screwdriver as a wedge -careful here as very little space is required! I will most likely take my old removed injectors and buy Monark injectors tips and have Gus work his magic on these so I can compare the two injectors, the Bosios in my sd and the Monarks in my td. Good luck, this is a fun and satisfying job!

Why on earth did you set 'em to the Wrong Pressure!??

(10 bar over for old engine)--NEVER heard of That, (IMHO) rubbish!

Injectors and their whole high-pressure circuit is quite a precision set-up, and setting to wrong pressure will Retard your point of injection, reduce the rate of fuel delivery and could cause you emissions issues!

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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

See pic, there is not much of a Pintel protruding to begin with on the stock nozzles.
What apppeared to be the original Injectors on mine had the area not covered by the Heat Shield burned and eroded away lower than the protected part of the Nozzle; at 198,000 miles. Also that central hole was plugged with Carbon.
The pic below is not one if my Nozzles but a Junk Yard Pull.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This was done by a Bosch certified tech who knows what he is doing! 40 odd years doing nothing but injection work with some highly sophisticated equipment. He rebuilt my Kugelfischer pump over 25 years ago . . I'll stick with the expertise thank you very much -

It would be interesting to have them pop tested at say 10,000miles. You may find that they "bed in" and you end up with the correct pressure.
The tech probably has the experience to be able to predict this. Would have been interesting to know the pop pressures on the old ones prior to the re-tip. Do pop pressures reduce with age/ mileage?

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Hmm, This is already taken into account at the correct New setting pressures--

But he'll still be 10 bar high after bedding....

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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

Are you saying that there are 2 different pop pressures.
One for new tips & one for testing injectors during normal service?
I have never heard of that to be the case with these injectors. Some one please correct me if I am wrong.
On other non MB motors I have seen pop pressures drop a little during initial bedding in. In particular CAV injectors.
On other non MB motors I have always had the tech set the pop pressures at the high end of the allowable range to allow for any reduction in time.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

The 617.95 Engine Manual calls for additional pressure (5-8 bar) when new nozzles are installed.

For example, "135 bar" injectors should be set to 140-143 bar when new nozzles are installed.

Thanks Tango,
I have learned something new. Well it confirms something I have seen, that is the need to set injectors at higher pressures when new tips are used.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Which is what he did. Noticed driving home last night the power difference is perceptable which makes this job very satisfying -smoother more stable idle. Unless you are set up with a pop tester and shims, I still believe it is better to take injectors to a shop to set up correctly. Gus charged me 15 an injector to balance, etc. I cannot say enough good things about Pacific Fuel Injection and Gus, a dying breed sadly in this high tech world . .

My opinion and some experience; no one has to believe or accept the below:

I worked in a Bosch Certified Fuel Injection Shop for 5 years and at that time the Guy I worked for had over 20 years experience not just with Bosch but multiple makes of Fuel Injection equipment.

Also Bosch had a Catalog with the Pop/Opening Pressures referenced by application and the Nozzle Number that listed the Pop Pressure they wanted their Injectors set at.

Neither my Bosch trained Boss or the Bosch Catalog say anything about having the Injector Opening Pressure set slightly Higher.

What I believe he is actually doing is merely setting the opening pressure above the 135 bar pressure stamped on the Injector Body. Mercedes allows a Pop/Opening Pressure range of 135-143 bar that he can work in when installing new Nozzles.

Part of his job is sales and it sounds to me like he is trying to think he did something extra for you and that he has some special knowledge about your Injectors that other Bosch Certified shops do not have.

When you are a new as I was when I stated working in Fuel Injection; Rebuilding Injectors is the first job they start you off at in a Fuel Injection Shop because it is the easiest to do.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

No, he just casually mentioned that he set injectors at 10 bar over which is routine. He charged me for cleaning, balancing, spray pattern, installation etc. - Great guy, they came back beautifully prepped for install. I tried to sell these before as I was not sold on Bosios so since I could not sell, I decided to go ahead and use them. I am going to buy some Monark tips (more affordable) and replace injectors in the wagon as well -

Absolutely!

--Must admit, hadnt thought of the 'special-attention' aspect, but it certainly sounds like it!--Good for business!

IME, new nozzles will alter pressure by around 5-8 bar within the first 500-1000 miles as they all settle in.

What was implied by the O/P is that the settings were done at 153 bar, and out of range of tolerance for That application....
When settled, they Could JUST be within tolerance, Depends on how much the Boso nozzle drops in pressure when bedding.--Personally Ive not ever used 'em, only ever used Delphi/CAV/Lucas/Bosch nozzles, so couldnt say....

__________________
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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

If he does a good job it is a good place to do business with.

It is just I have often seen some Mechanics speak to their customers like they have some mystical powers that other Mechanics don't.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Back in 1975-1980 when I workd in Fuel Injection we used Bosch because they cost less and that also cost the Customer less.
At that time CAV made better quality Nozzles concerning quality control than the Bosch ones and the Nozzles were Heat Treated Harder.
American Bosch also made better quality Nozzles than (Robert) Bosch in that time period.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel