1982 300TD Wagon - Ava. 345k miles.

I'm fishing for thoughts about the SLS. Right now, I'm convinced she's in need of a new pair of Accumulators - rides like "a boat in the water". We haul sound equipment a majority of the time, and winding roads are a nightmare - 2 years ago she drove nice...

Anyway, Ava has sagged on the drivers side since we brought her home 3 or 4 years ago - our mechanic, when asked about it, stated it needed new accumulators.

NOW it's obvious it needs new ones, as the handling has definitely deteriorated over the last couple years.

***AND the ride height is low - I can see much too much camber in the rear - tires wearing off on the inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BUT, I'm wondering if bad accumulators could make it sag/tilt to one side? Is 'maybe' the one on the drivers side 'worse' than the other?

:/

THOUGHTS: if my understanding of the system is correct, as I attempt to visualize it in motion: if the diaphragms in the accumulators burst, the ride will be hard; but if much, but not all the nitrogen gas has 'dissipated', then the ride gets softer... (?) I've been thinking on this one a while, and that's the only thing I can come up with... OK, I'm rambling...

So, I rebuilt the SLS valve last year - solved the overnight sag. (thanks Andrew!)

***What I'm wondering, as I'm readying to order parts this afternoon, is should I be assuming a new pair of springs for the rear are in order???

...and is changing the springs likely to end up costing much more - ?say, I (or a paid mechanic) busted a fitting off one of the actuators??? Is this likely to happen???

Oh, and, since I want to flush the SLS system, how many Liters of febi fluid should I order (yes, along with a new filter

...and spending the afternoon searching and reading posts, about makes it sound like I should just go ahead and replace the SLS hydraulic hose too - just as good measure?

So, where does this hose start, and end?

Five feet long???

Replace those accumulators sooner than later, they protect the SLS system from damage. I wouldnt bother with new springs.

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Hi
Good idea to change the high pressure hose. After I changed my accumulators, rebuilt my SLS valve and flushed and installed new fluid - the hose blew and dumped all of my new fluid on the driveway. You just buy new hose at a hydralic shop and change your fitting from the old hose to the new. There is a very nice thread by kerry on repairing the hose.

Also a good idea to check the adjustable connecting rod that connects the SLS valve arm to the sway bar arm - the plasic inselts fall apart with time
Good Luck,
Joseph

about the tilting, you should get down and look very closely at the springs. the lr spring on mine had the lowest coil broken off of it. i thought it was sagging so bad because the sls was removed before i bought it, and i was told thats why, but when i went to install heavier springs i found the broken coil. it did seem to lean left at times, just a little. after replacing the spring it sits nice and feels much better over bumps.

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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going...
fast '70 Chevelle 200k+
home built Shovelhead chopper

Great - thanks for the help y'all!

The drivers side is 1"+ low, as I remember measuring last time it was in the alignment shop - and is of course worse if only the driver is in the car... amazing how notable it is - look out the window of a restaurant, or such, and see it. I have looked for a broken spring before, and found none. I'll do the Accumulators and see what happens. And I'll just order a new hose with the rest of the parts. Seems it's the res to pump line (?) so not under much pressure.

I'll see if the supplier has a new valve link, just to be thorough.

Happy Days - G

Have a read through this.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=271570

Accumulators will make a world of difference. Mine was all bouncy and floaty in the rear. Put in new accumulators, and all was good.

Did you get your valve rebuilt?

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Make sure you use the correct fluid in the sls, wrong fluid is a sure way to kill accumulators.

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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Yes, thanks Andrew - I rebuilt the valve, and it sure stopped the sagging overnight thing.

that was a tricky booger to get out - silly little lines all stacked in together...