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  #1  
Old 05-30-2010, 11:03 PM
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1982 300CD Oil leak at the bottom of the oil filter housing

The attached photo is looking up at the bottom of the oil filter housing flange. This leak has been with the car since I purchased it. I went to tighten it up and felt the metal start to give as I was torquing on it. Looking at the other bolt, someone else tired to do the same thing at one point.

Questions if anyone knows. Is this a common leak area for theses beauties? Also, what would be the best way to get theses bolts out now that they are striped.

Does anyone know the part numbers for the gasket and bolts? Thanks in advance.

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1982 300CD Oil leak at the bottom of the oil filter housing-oil-leak.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2010, 11:40 PM
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Not much room to work! Did the bolt strip inside the allen-head or did the threads strip?
I've had luck with putting a little side tension on my ratchet and pulling as I tried to unscrew an allen bolt like that. If that doesn't work and you have room to do this, use one of those tiny, needle nose vicegrips. You don't need to squash the head, just enough clamp to pull and turn. With this you can get an "L" shaped allen wrench in, put the vice grips on, turn with the wrench and pull with the vicegrips wrench - one handed even. Again, no need to pull like someone's grabbed your wallet. Once it starts turning and coming out, the wratched method usually gets it all the way out.
For repair: Helicoil. It taps to a larger size then the wire coil screws in. Fixed and back to original. If you can't get a metric Helicoil, at least you can pick up an SAE allen bolt in the hardware section. Just did this on a Jeep head, but I had much more room to get to it!
How to: Helicoil http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E
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  #3  
Old 05-31-2010, 12:58 AM
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If the Block is stripped it might be less expensive to use the next largest diameter US Coarse or fine threaded Socket/Allen Head Bolt.

There are charts on the internet that have the drill sizes and the the size of drill you would need so the Housing can be drilled for clearance of the larger diameter bolt.

The above would be less expensive due to the Tap and Drills being more available and cost less.
The issue with the above or a Helicoil is going to be drilling the hole straight with no room!

He might get lucky and maybe the Bolt that caused the stripping is too short and there is actually a bunch of good threads deeper in the hole. If that is so He just needs to find a longer metric Socket Head Bolt.

The Oil Filter housing should also be checked closely for hair line cracks.

Also I have not seen what a Factory Oil Filter Housing Gasket looks like but there might be an advantage to making a gasket with thicker gasket material.
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:49 AM
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Isn't the block cast iron? If that's where it bolts into, I would think the bolts (6x125) would strip first. The part number is 616 184 07 80 and it's 1 mm thick.
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1982 300CD Oil leak at the bottom of the oil filter housing-oil-canister-gasket-616-184-07-80.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 05-31-2010, 12:47 PM
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Yes, it did strip inside of the head itself. I will have to try the vise grips idea and see if it works. Thanks.
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2002 E430 gasser 60k
1982 300CD 175k - SOLD
1982 300TD Wagon 175k - SOLD
1981 300D - SOLD

2004 Honda Element
2007 Nissan Titan
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  #6  
Old 05-31-2010, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If the Block is stripped it might be less expensive to use the next largest diameter US Coarse or fine threaded Socket/Allen Head Bolt.
I would submit that stripping the block with a socket head cap screw is not possible. The hex recess will strip first every time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Also I have not seen what a Factory Oil Filter Housing Gasket looks like but there might be an advantage to making a gasket with thicker gasket material.
There is an improved, thicker gasket available. It has a "waffle" texture.
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2010, 09:17 PM
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I hope longer bolts will work, but if you do have to drill and tap for a Helicoil or larger diameter bolt, be sure to use Do-Drill or Tap Right with cast iron. Makes it much easier. Probably have to take the intake off and use a right-angle drill, too.
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  #8  
Old 06-01-2010, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmenefee View Post
Probably have to take the intake off
Unless someone has done some really creative plumbing on that engine, the intake is on the other side.
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  #9  
Old 06-01-2010, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Unless someone has done some really creative plumbing on that engine, the intake is on the other side.
Maybe someone is planning a really creative approach to the oil filter stand!!!

This is starting to have all the elements of a blonde joke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmenefee View Post
I hope longer bolts will work, but if you do have to drill and tap for a Helicoil or larger diameter bolt, be sure to use Do-Drill or Tap Right with cast iron.
I suspect that your solution is on the wrong end of the problem.
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  #10  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
I would submit that stripping the block with a socket head cap screw is not possible. The hex recess will strip first every time.



There is an improved, thicker gasket available. It has a "waffle" texture.
Thanks for the info on the improved gasket.

I can see ways to sript the threads in a block even with an Socket Head Bolt; one of them would be to use a bolt with with the wrong threads.
But, I hope that you are correct.

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