I have decided that it is finally time to take my MB for its first visit to a mechanic. With good German engineering and the help of this forum, I have been able to do all of the neccesary projects myself. But now the rear axle is thunking and I really don't want to tackle that project myself. I read about axle replacement in the DIY section and decided that this would be a good job to pay someone else to do (and therefore hopefully get it right the first time). I called Phil to order an axle and it seem that I must determine whether my car needs a annular or homokinetic type axle. Phil was, as usual, very helpful but was not able to advise me on this one. So ---- my question is ---- how can I determine which type of axle to order, prior to taking it to my mechanic? He (the mechanic) said that he would be happy to install the axle assembly if I would provide the parts -- he's a darned good mechanic, but not to versed in MB workings. So I need to determine which type axle is the right one before he starts to work on it. Don't need to tie up his bay while I wait (and pay for) shipping the wrong axle back. How can I determine which axle to order before it goes into the shop? And ------ from all I've read, it's a better bet to pay appx. $250 for a remanufactured MB axle than to pay $90 for a new Chinese one. Any thoughts on this are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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John Schroader
bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D
"I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin
"You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln

Doesn't really matter since their interchangeable. Are you replacing both? I would personally go for the newer style (annular) since they can be removed with taking the diff cover off (in the future) and they can be rebooted easier (if you have access to a press).

I've replaced the rear axles on my car twice. The first time, I purchased remanufactured axles from CVJ in Colorado. One year later, the axles took a dump, so I went with the ones from Autozone. Two years later, and they are still doing fine. I don't remember what type of axles I used (annular or whatever.)

if you already have annular, I'd order them for sure,
if the axle boots are attached near a bolt together flange, then they are annular.
Roy (whunter) told me that rebooted original axles that have NOT failed yet are the best.
even better is if you know which side they came from and you install them opposite. for longevity.
I will soon be rebooting several marked sets from my fleet of parts cars. so SOON I'll get them for sale.

OK I'm pretty sure that I understand what you are saying -- that I can order either type and my mechanic can install either -- correct? Since I'm only replacing one axle at this time, does it matter if they are the same?

VSTECH ---- again, please pardon my ignorance but would an old axle with only a new boot be as good as a rebuilt one? I like the idea of original MB parts, but only want to have to do this once.

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John Schroader
bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D
"I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin
"You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln

Have a look on this web site for an explanation regarding the two types of axles - click on buy parts - select your vehicle and find the part. There is a helpful explanation there.

Common consent here is that an original axle with a new boot is better than a cheap new one. (I have no experience of this though - I'm just about to do the job my self so I've been reading up on it)

Here is a DIY from DMORRISON. the new axles are the Annular. and the old are the Homokenetic.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearAxles

the Annular have a row of bolts (6) that connect the axle to the piece that fits into the differential. some call it the stubb, and it stays in the differential.
remove the 6 bolts, and the one in the hub. push axle towards the hub, drop down and pull out. place new axle in hub, connect the 6 bolts.

the Homokenetic axle is all one piece. to replace it the rear cover on the differential has to be removed to get to the "C" clip that holds the the axle in.
remove the bolt in the hub, shove axle towards the Differential to clear the hub splines and remove.

Both axles connect to the differential with the "C" clip. the big advantage to the Annular is simplicity when having to replace one.

Annular seem to cost more than the Homokenetic I`ve noticed when looking up parts.
when pulling them at PNP, the cost is the same, I have found some new one`s a time or two.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

More notes:
The new Asian made Annular Axles have had the Bolts/Nuts come lose on them. If you buy them remove one Nut at a time and re-install them with a Thread Locking Compound until all are done.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks fellows. I have read and read on this topic and still haven't fully decided what to do. Too many variable and choices for me to want to tackle this one myself. At this point in time, I am leaning toward replacing both axles with the cheap new ones, studying the old ones when they come out, and being better versed in this matter if and when the need arises to replace them. I surely appreciate the helpful info.

__________________
John Schroader
bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D
"I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin
"You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln