Aux Fan Maintenance - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Whiskeydan · #16 06-08-2010, 03:59 PM

Cool... My wagon is getting the W126 fan treatment this weekend. I looked at doing this a while back and was thinking I'd have to make some new core support braces. Looks like you just removed one and it fits.

rrgrassi · #17 06-08-2010, 04:11 PM

Anyone have a dead w126 fan they do not want?

snookwhaler · #18 06-08-2010, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiskeydan

Cool... My wagon is getting the W126 fan treatment this weekend. I looked at doing this a while back and was thinking I'd have to make some new core support braces. Looks like you just removed one and it fits.

FYI... The 126 fan is huge compared to the 123 and it takes some "finagling" to get it to fit without hitting the back of the grill. I had to completely remove the drivers side core support rod and then pull the fan tightly against the condenser. In retrospect I probably just could have cut away a little off the backside of the grille. It works great either way!

Whiskeydan · #19 06-09-2010, 11:18 AM

I just measured the aux fan current in situ:

W123 fan 11 amps @ 13 volts, 143 watts

W126 fan 15.5 amps @ 13 volts, 201 watts

I used a Lab power supply to obtain consistant reading.

Amazing how much more air the W126 fan moves at the same voltage.

samboyellowsub · #20 06-23-2010, 02:54 PM

I've been wondering for a while, is the auxiliary fan only to come on when the condenser reaches a certain temperature? In other words, does the AC have to be on for the fan to come on or can it come on if the engine coolant temp reaches a certain temp too?

rrgrassi · #21 06-23-2010, 03:02 PM

The Aux fan is switched on or off based on freon temp at the drier. Sometimes, the engine bay temp can get hot enought to trip the switch, but the fan's operation is not based on engine coolant temps.

compu_85 · #22 06-23-2010, 03:20 PM

I wonder if you could retrofit the dual fans from a later W126.

FWIW the radiator fan(s) on a 86+ W126 don't run at full speed when the AC calls for more cooling. They only kick onto high when the engine is overheating.

-Jason

tangofox007 · #23 06-23-2010, 04:09 PM

I just replaced the front bearing in my fan. The fan make much less noise now. I am a complete loss when it comes to understanding why Bosch would have used an unsealed bearing in that application. I replaced the original bearing with a double-sealed SKF 6001-2RSH.

If anyone wants to do the job and avoid the need for a pop rivet tool, consider using small screws for the bearing retainer. There are four unused holes in the retainer plate. There metal behind those holes is much thicker than the staked holes. The best bet is to drill and tap the unused holes before drilling out the other four. Match-marking the retainer will assure better alignment when it's put back together.

Also, on a W123, getting to the screw at the bottom of the fan is a challenge. You can eliminate the challenge altogether by removing the plastic inlay in the bumper. The fan will then lift out with the bottom screw and bracket still attached.

AMH · #24 06-24-2010, 08:38 AM

[QUOTE=
You could also do the build yourself rather than spending the shipping $'s if you have a drill, a way to clean everything really well and a pop-rivet gun and rivets. The bearing is a 6001, but DEMAND a sealed (active rubber seal and not just a metal shield - Designation is 2RS for a double radial shield/seal.)

[/QUOTE]
60012RSJ is the NAPA SKF brand number
The condensor fan on my 300D crapped out the other day. Checking the basics, fan would spin by hand. I found #16??? fuse toasted. Replaced fuse and jumped terminals at drier heat switch. Still would not engage. Shut the car off. Put key in run position, jumped heat switch, fan relay clicked.

I plugged a spare fan from my 123 parts shelf and it functioned normally. I will give it the new bearing treatment before installing on the car.

Whiskeydan · #25 06-24-2010, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snookwhaler

FYI... The 126 fan is huge compared to the 123 and it takes some "finagling" to get it to fit without hitting the back of the grill. I had to completely remove the drivers side core support rod and then pull the fan tightly against the condenser. In retrospect I probably just could have cut away a little off the backside of the grille. It works great either way!

The W123 condensor can be moved back (closer to the radiator) somewhat and the hood can come forward ever so slightly. This allowed enough clearance for me with out hacking on the grill.

snookwhaler · #26 07-10-2010, 04:12 PM

Thanks for this post guys! I took apart my aux. fan today. I inspected everything and it was in really good shape. The bearing was pretty crusty. I cleaned everything up, re-greased the bearings with Super Lube Synthetic and did the bearing/pop rivet mod.

It works like a champ and spins notably smoother.

MBeige · #27 07-21-2010, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compress ignite

All credit to member "TomJ"
O.E. Fans Do Not Have Sealed Bearings [99.99999% of failure rate]

"The plain bearing in the magnet housing has been good in all (doesn't have to take the torque or side loading that the main fan bearing does.) So I sourced out a supply of SEALED bearings for this application so I can rebuild the fans as they come in."

TomJ TomJ is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: BFE, currently CO
Posts: 1,275
Re: fans
BFE= "Bum F**k Everywhere" ie; will live any old hick place, but no more cities for me (am rural, but near Boulder, CO.)

"Good" price for a new fan is $174. Dealer price is around $300.

You could also do the build yourself rather than spending the shipping $'s if you have a drill, a way to clean everything really well and a pop-rivet gun and rivets. The bearing is a 6001, but DEMAND a sealed (active rubber seal and not just a metal shield - Designation is 2RS for a double radial shield/seal.)

I can help with tips and such, but it's a straight-forward assy and job that about anyone can do. One thing to be carefull of is the dust from the brushes inside can wreak havoc on your lungs, an evac fan and a breathing mask is encouraged while dis-assy and cleaning."
__________________
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Last edited by TomJ : 08-15-2004 at 11:06 AM.

Where do you get these sealed bearings? One fan in the W201 (left/high speed fan) went bad and I have an extra one ready. But while I have both out I might as well rebuild them and throw both into the car and have the other remaining one as a spare, and could replace the bearing while it's out. The one in my w123 is new. Thanks.

snookwhaler · #28 07-22-2010, 05:15 PM

Here is one:

http://www.oem-bearing.com/60012z-deep-groove-ball-bearings-p-201.html

It is the Z not the 2rs.

You can probably get one locally. I remember someone somewhere mentioning a skateboard shop?

Edit: Here is some more. The 2rs is the 4th one down:

http://www.replacementbearings.com/index.php?ResetPaging=1&SalesList=REPLACBEAR&MenuLevel1=Items&MenuLevel2=SKF&MenuLevel3=6000+Series

JamesDean · #29 08-15-2010, 04:18 PM

So have we identified the proper bearing for the w201 fans?

Z vs 2RS?

So we must disassemble, clean, and rivet the new bearing on to the existing assembly? If I understand this correctly....

tangofox007 · #30 08-15-2010, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Z vs 2RS?

I recommend the 2RS (double sealed) version.