New here. New to me 1987 300 TD 3.0
 

Hey everyone stumbled across this site earlier via search engine. (so far the best MB forum I could find :)) I just bought a 1987 M-B 300 TD Automatic. The car isnt pretty its low mileage at 78,000 miles. The car has sat for a year or two and its interior is rough( mouse poop etc) How ever for the price I paid I couldnt go wrong.

Tomorrow I am going to throw a battery in it and hope it drives onto my trailer. What do I need to know, what do I need to look for, Im not expecting to just drive this car 300,000 miles with no problems, I plan on oil, oil filter, fuel filter etc, but not being familiar with this car at all what are common problems, and what should I look for. I am really excited about the car the previous owners took care of it but it sat and there was one problem about a fuel door that wouldnt open etc.
If you were in my shoes and it was your car with your knowledge what would you have "me" do.
Thanks for all your help
And thanks for having this forum.
Bill
Newbie

Welcome!
I just got my first 124 wagon myself a few weeks ago!
this is the best forum period! you won't be able to find a different site better.
if it's been sitting, I'd not try cranking it first off.
78K is AWESOME!!! Mine was extrememly well taken care of, but it needs quite a lot.
I'd check the motor for stiffness by cranking over with a socket on the bolt on the crank pulley. if it's smooth by hand, it'll be safe to try cranking with a battery.
the issue with these motors is the fan looses viscous fluid, and can overheat and blow the head gasket or warp the head.
also the vacuum pump can fail and destroy the motor.

Welcome! This is probably the best forum out there. You might have to sift just a little, but many knowledgeable sharp folks here. {I am not one of them, btw} :o
The most important thing so far is that you correctly identified your car, no doubt from the Trunk Badge of Truth {hatch version for wagons ;)}. A 300TD. ONE T only!! {and I guess if you don't have a wagon and you are referencing a sedan, well, we'll get that straight later}.
On your model of wagon with the OM603 engine, you can NEVER let the car over heat!!! Never! Do some searching and reading on the #14 head. You can find your head number and see what you have. Probably a #14, so again, don't let it over heat. Address anything associated with cooling prior to extended road time. Don't fear driving it up on the trailer though.
In all honesty, and based on years of reading posts, put in a battery and turn that key. Glow it of course.
With mice evidence, you might pull the air filter out and see what type of carnage is in the intake/filter area first though.

Like I did with now, the first thing you need to do is get the cooling system straight, There are plenty of us who have dealt with fans, and relays, etc. Many times it is something simple that someone with the right knowledge can diagnose in 5 minutes.

Yes its a sedan my fault lol shes a 300D and a turbo, but not a TD. Ok here we go, Battery in, car fired right up. No guages at all fuses look pretty corroded. Alarm wont stop going off, brake line blew above the rear end, Runs really good. Inner part of the rear tires worn to the belts (bushings or alignment?). Power door locks dont work, I dont even know where else to go the car is rough on the outside and inside, but motor and automatic feel strong. I got it for 500 bucks.
I am a complete virgin to these cars, how do I even know if this car is worth fixing/ or spending my time on. Thanks again for your help
William

$500 is in parts car range. If it runs and drives, you're doing pretty well.

If there isn't any rust and the body is straight...well, you're doing even better.

Here's my $0.02

Now...some things are cheap to fix and just take a bit of your time. These are things like cleaning up electrical connections, or checking over the vacuum system(s) with a mityvac (necessary tool!).

The alarm can be disabled pretty easily. Simplest way...not arm it. However, if you didn't get a valet key (round plastic head), you'll have a hard time doing that. Other more permanent methods can be found on this forum.

But, yeah...consider: oil change, trans fluid change + filter, power steering fluid change + filter, change the fuel filters (two in the engine compartment) and maybe some fuel / brake lines depending on condition. Check the condition of the fuel that has been sitting in the tank - it can wreak havoc if it's "infected" with "algae". Definitely change the coolant (use the proper coolant!!). Check the condition of the belt and fan clutch.

One thing that you'll notice if you are having age related suspension problems...is the numerous amount of rubber bits. I'm leery of what the [suspension renewing] future holds for my car, but...it'll be cheaper than car payments :D

Useful link: http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt

Where are you?

The car is worth fixing if the body is straight, ... fixing.

It is not a particularly valuable car though, so unless the car looks and operates generally like it has 78,000 miles (odometers are known for failure, ... is the trip odometer at zero?) then be careful how deep you get into repairs.

If it's actual miles, interior and exterior are cleanable to excellent condition, you have a fairly rare find and the value of it will be unusually high for the car. Then it's worth more than just fixing, it's worth throwing money at it to make it really right. It was the "fastest production diesel car" when it was new, and can be a grin to drive (especially with a little tuning). IMO a high point for Mercedes diesels, and Mercedes cars in general.

As mentioned, cooling system maintenance is important on this car, moreso than on your other diesels, think 2-stroke DD important. Further, the head is prone to cracking if it's the original head (search #14 head for more info), probably due to pressures in the combustion chamber at high outputs but many here feel that it's exclusively an overheating issue, can certainly be a fatal mistake.

The rear suspension bushings, rear subframe bushings, and differential mount/bushings are a substantial investment, but if you have inner-edge tire wear it is possible that you have some of them sloppy. The most common are the top and bottom arms facing forward from the wheel carrier. They could also be front tires rotated rearward after a severe toe-out has toasted them, the front will ride low when driven forward if toe-out is the problem.

Normal car stuff, window motors, transmission leaks, etc. will cause issues. It's an old car.

The turbo on your car might not give up much at this point, it is extremely common to have power issues due to switchover valve problems and alda problems, search both here. Should give 0-60 times in the 9second range when healthy/stock. Also search trap-oxidizer as this needs to be removed if you have one.

Common also are failing vacuum pods which control the flaps in your HVAC system.

This ought to give you a place to start, post a picture and your location and you'll get even more attention. Hopefully one of us lives near you.

for the alarm, pull up the passengers floor mat, and lift the plastic panel out that's under it.
you will find a computer with two large connectors on it down there, unhook them. the alarm will shut up permanently.

Says "BECKER" on it.

I'll give you $600
I'm sure it's worth more.
tell us where you are located, and post some pics of your new acquisition.

Im in Connecticut. I think the trip odometer is on zero but I just drove around in my driveway with it, the brake pedal floor mat etc make me believe its also 78,000 But if the trip odo is on zero that means the cluster is bad? all the fuses are pretty well corroded so im replacing all of them later hopefully get the guages to work. The fuel coming in through the clear "lawn mower style" filter looks great(no orange etc) but im going to give it the shock stuff that kills algea anyways.
All the windows except driver work, sunroof opens but the seal is trashed. Power door locks dont lock, figured the open the fuel flap manually part. Im heading to autoparts for oil,fuel,air filters and oil.
Also the tires on the car are the Blizzack/ heavily siped soft compound tire that and failure to rotate???? can be why the are so worn. Engine bay is clean car sounds really nice. a wobbly/ rough at idle( how smooth are these at idle??) considering its an 87' diesel I find that to be fine.
Drivers seat has a decent crack in it car has the typical sitting smell and moldy spots. I will try to post pictures later.
Im going to try and start really going through it this weekend I want to register and insure it so I can see how she drives.
Are the brake tubing and fittings on these cars pretty normal?
You all are very helpful
Thanks
Bill

Should idle smooth and quieter than any of your other diesels listed (especially the 210hp 3208!).

Trip odometer at zero often means that it was reset and isn't registering, and neither is the regular odometer. Common and fairly easy to fix.

Blizzaks will still not wear on one side. The base rubber (after 40% wear/60% tread) is normal rubber, only the outer layer is the hydrophilic stuff.

Locks are a pump under the RR seat, pneumatic.

Isn't the '93 Cabriolet a Cabrio?

No 93's are Cabriolets, old style like the rabbits. Cabrio's were the more rounded style after.
Bill

Baby Mog, it sounds and runs fine at idle just a little bit "wobbly" by my standards. And honestly the 3208 as much of a POS engine as it was since invention,(The NA engine lasts longer) has a sound and exhaust howl that no other CAT engine I have owned (3116 3126E) will ever reproduce.
I have no pictures raining like heck today. Im not really looking to sell but looking to give it what I got.
And ps the loudest most "wobbly" engine in the fleet is the 6.2L.:)

Shouldn't be "wobbly". Could be many things, once you have it on the road and get a chance to get the cobwebs blown out, it might be better. If not, glow-plugs will cause cold wobbly, DV seals an idle wobbly, injector balance a wobbly cause also.

My first 3208 was an NA, hot-rodded it as well as I could without a turbo, timing/nozzles/pump etc., did sound pretty cool above 3000rpm. The later turbos didn't have the howl, the turbo softened it a bit. Pretty decent engines really, just aren't made for the same applications as the big Cats.