Quick question, how do I remove the crankshaft bolt without the crankshaft turning? And is it left hand threads?

Its not left hand threads. A large screwdriver can be inserted between the starter gear and the block or bell housing adapter.

Why you taking the bolt off?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

What if the motor is out of the car and the starter is off? Im taking it out to polish and put new bearings in.

Still need help getting the crankshaft bolt out, my motor is out and oil pan is off and head is off. How do I get that bolt off without the crankshaft turning? Also since I have everything open should I replace the piston rings? The motor has about 200,000 miles on it. I took one piston out to look at the rings and they look fine but I really dont know what to look for.

take 2 of your old flywheel bolts, put screw them in without the flywheel on the engine, and put a large screwdriver or small pry bar between them. if you have then engine on the stand it will hit one of the supports and your good to go. if you have to put excessive force on the bolt then it would be a good idea to get a friend and have him stand on the engine stand (at the back) so it won't tip. he can also make sure the pry bar doesn't move.

if the engine is on the ground you my need 2 friends, one to hold the engine and one to hold the pry bar while you turn the bolt.

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The flywheel is off, there is no place to hold the crankshaft from turning.

read the statement in post #5 one more time...

if it doesn't work for you, get an impact gun somehow. You wont need any other force than that.

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I had the same problem. I purchased a cheap air gun but it didnt to the job.
I had a local backyard mechanic do it. He crawled under the car with a sledgehammer and a wrench and got the bolt free by striking the wrench with the sledge hammer. Sharp blows. It didnt take him very long. I suppose you might think the airwrench loosened it up first-- but I doubt it. Very sharp blows with a heavy hammer.

Well I got it off, I had two of my neighbors to help. Pistons are out and crankshaft is out, ready for me to clean everything. I dont know if I should replace piston rings, chain guides? The chain guides look fine, what do you think?

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there should be no question as to whether you do the rings at this point.

what do the cylinders look like?

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Yea, I will replace the rings. The cylinders look great.

that's comforting.

good luck.

my take on chain guides is... if they're not brittle,,, forget them. If the main banana rail is heavily worn, replace it. But if its only worn to the depth of the chain with one complete imprint, leave it.... its just going to happen to the next one. (unless the contact point for the tensioner is heavily worn as well.)

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This is the big one, I think it looks good. But I have never seen a new one, what do you think?

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honestly, the picture doesn't help much.

the determining factors are really the characteristics of the wear pattern.

are they consistent?

are they severe?

are they symmetric?

Does the rail 'wobble' on the mounting pin? ...and so forth


personally, my limit would be 1/3 - 1/2 of the depth of the plastic material. Or, of there is a deep groove where the chain tensioner meets the rail.

anything that could allow for misalignment is worth correcting

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Those grooves are pretty deep. Now that you have it out, splurge for the 50 bucks and get a new one.

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