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#1
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Valve Cover Damage
First let me say thanks for all the help so far.
I came across this while I was getting ready to do my valve adjustments. I cleaned the valve cover ( I plan on painting or polishing it). Apparently there is some pretty noticeable damage. I just wanted to see if I should be very worried or if this was just a thing that happens sometimes? Here's the pics. Also, is that black tar suppose to be there (pic 4), it looks to be a sealant or something. |
#2
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Maybe I'm going blind, but just What damage are you looking at!
Is it cracked or summit...? Cant see Anything unusual in those pics...
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year.... |
#3
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Yeah, the shiny parts look like left overs from the factory clean up of the casting.
As long as there are no holes going clean through it and no issues with the seal to the gasket don't worry about it.
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
#4
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The metal seems to have been ground away. Not a big deal?
Also, does anyone know the size of the camshaft bolt in metric I don't have it and I hate to buy a million and find out they aren't going to work. |
#5
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These marks look like someone has been a bit rough with putting the cover back on and perhaps got the inside scraped on the gubbins inside (gubbins is a technical term). You are driving an old car now - not your 2007 Honda - it has a history and it has been visited by many people before you! Don't worry too much about things like this unless you want to restore it to perfection.
As for the bolts sizes I don't know but with the use of a ruler and wikipedia you'll quickly find out what you need (and what you don't) See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread |
#6
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That makes perfect sense didn't think of that. I was just worried I might have something mechanical scrapping.
Thanks |
#7
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You mentioned cam bolt.... I don't think you're supposed to use that to turn the engine over if that was your plan? IIRC you can "tighten" the cam bolt by using it to turn the engine over? PS pump is also a bad way to turn the engine over... I know it's harder but turn the crankshaft bolt to rotate the cam so you can check the valves...
P.S. Crankshaft is a 27mm socket... a deep socket fits nicely on the wrench and doesn't hit the fan... 27mm is also used on injectors so you can use it elsewhere besides just the crankshaft...
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'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette" '85 Federal 300TD |
#8
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nope. don't ever use the cam bolt to turn the motor over.
the tension will be wrong, and you could damage the tensioner. best is the crank bolt, on a 240, you can use the fan and a clean tight belt to marginally rotate the motor. or of course, the starter... |
#9
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Looking in picture #5, there are 4 gind marks, they are from the factory when cleaning up the covers during production.
look on the outside where it fits next to the fuel injectors, there are also grind marks. the sealant is to seal the tin trough so oil doesn`t get pulled in and there is the proper vacuum from the rear of it. the blow by is sucked in through this thing and out the top of the cover. the sealant is RTV. I agree, Do Not turn the engine by the cam sproket bolt. turn by the crank shaft bolt using a 27mm or a 1 1/6" socket. I use a Craftsman deep 12pt socket. Rotate the engine to the Right as standing in the front looking at it. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#10
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Quote:
Quote:
(This assumes that the subject vehicle is the '83 300D listed in the originator's profile.) Last edited by tangofox007; 06-15-2010 at 09:18 AM. |
#11
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Quote:
Whilst I'm droning on about cover seals - I would also replace your cover seal whilst you are at it - this will stop any weird leaks down the side of the engine that might be concerning you! |
#12
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The technical term for the source of those "scrapes" is "die grinder."
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#13
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Really?
So you think they are marks left over from the casting process at point of manufacture?
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#14
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If your valvetrain was doing that (I take it that's what you were getting at), you'd hear it. A lot. You're fine.
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#15
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Quote:
I am talking about the bolt the chilton manual refers to in the valve adjustment section in chapter 1. Its in the garage but I am sure you know what I mean. Its probably the crank shaft bolt. I bought a 23 mm for the bolt. It fits but seems a bit loose. I tried turning but wasn't sure of the direction so stopped since I am waiting on my gasket and wrenches still. It might possibly be 22mm or its the lack of mm to mm consistency I have read about when talking about US tools versus German tools/bolts. Quote:
I plan on doing a compression test after valve adjustment to see if its a miss or something else. In the end it could just be the sound of a diesel engine. |
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