Has anyone repaired/relubed their door check? The p/s on my 82 cd makes a clunk/pop, but it does work... Since the original is painted and matches, I'd like to keep it. Any hints/tips?

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I tried to take mine apart, lube it, and put it back together. The taking apart and lubing went just fine. The putting back together was impossible. You would need a special jig or clamp. When the spring loaded steel ball flew across the garage and almost broke a window, it was time to give up. It was not worth the amount I would save by refurbishing the one I had.

I would not discourage you from trying, just for the heck of it, but I would have one ready to install when you take the old one out.

Address this problem now rather than later. The part can lock up with the door open and if you are out somewhere, driving home with an open door would be a real challenge.

Also, you can drive the car without the door check, but the danger is the wind catching your door and you bending a hinge or frame without the door check in place. Better to have one ready when you take the old one out.

Good luck. Wear safety glasses if you try to get the old one back together.

Richard

__________________
85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60

I wouldn't waste the time or energy repairing a door check. Replacements are cheap. I replaced the ones on my SD. The whole job removing door panels included was less than an hour for all the doors.

One had been removed from the car by the PO and another one stuck open on me in the rain.

Better to just avoid future problems and replace cheap parts that are prone to failure as a preventative measure.

__________________
This area is typically used to brag about one's current or former automobiles.

Issue is that as OE they are painted and match the car... Replacements don't. I don't have lapis blue metallic paint, and even if I did, no guarantee it sticks...

Since it works, I'd like to keep it, though the logic is valid. Will have to see...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

It is not a good idea.
A failing check strap can break the body mount welds.

Door check strap 300CD x2 per car
MB# 123 720 03 16

You can match almost any color with Testors paint.
http://www.testors.com/category/50736/Paints

Ok thanks!

Is that the same p/n as for a sedan? I have a brand new check I bought in fastlane years ago for a sedan, in my basement...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

A tip on paint matching...

For $15 at my local NAPA they will load any Mercedes color into a spray can. I just tell them my paint code (its on the hood latch label).

I had this done for my paint code (929) to fix rust spots and do body work on the '85. Matched exceptionally well. A local body shop recommended I get the spray can from NAPA.

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

A brand new one is like $15-20.....why bother? Get some paint from the store that is close and give the strap a few coats. Or leave it the wrong color, it gives the car character.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Are you sure it's the door check strap that's broken? Mine makes the loud snapping sound and its the part on the door jamb that's broken (broken weld). Take a closer look. as you open the door. when the snap is heard, if you see a corresponding movement on the door jamp piece. then it's not the door check strap.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Wow... that sure beats the $130 check straps that come on my W110!

__________________
Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/

DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

check strap, FRONT Door W123.133 300D x2 per car
MB# 123 720 05 16

check strap, REAR Door W123.133 300D x2 per car
MB# 123 720 03 16

Heh...whenever I see a w123 for sale with OE door straps I always think "hey cool these are probably original", and then moments later, "well these will bust any day now and I'll be spending a little money fixing them in a few months..."

I'd get paint and order the part(s). Get it painted before it actually breaks on you. It's also a good opportunity to check, clean, lube window regulator parts, replace the vapor barrier, maybe fix a broken map pocket, door handle, etc.

__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

It took me a while, and I shot a ball bearing or two around, but I managed to do it. The jamb side of the check has a spring and two balls that press through the detents on the door side of the check. It's the door side of the assembly that wears out so if you "really really" care (read as "anal") it's not an impossible task.

The spring is very heavy duty and the trick is to get the balls to stay inside the strap while shifting them from whatever is holding them into the securing side of the door check. I used a scrap piece of maple molding that had a groove already cut into it, (you need a hard wood - the balls sink into the soft wood) and a couple of quick-clamps.

__________________
mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

I have one about to go on the drivers door. It seems like cheap insurance to just go ahead and replace the stupid thing. It is only $20.

__________________
AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)