1980 300sd won't start, had same problem earlier...

[splnter]

(240k+ miles)About 2 months ago I had the exact same problem. I'd wait for my glowplugs to heat up, and then when I turn my key the extra part nothing would happen. No noise, no movement, just nothing.

I ended up taking it to a mechanic in town and he said the starter died, and got a new one. Now, 2 months later, the same exact problem is happening.

I don't know much about cars and I've been trying to find information about it, but I really don't even know where to start.

Earlier I've been having a problem with my fuel injection system(I think). If I took my foot off the accelerator too quickly my car would die, so I'd always have to drive in a way I'd have time to let go and brake.

I think it's just 'cause the rod kicks back too far and the backwards direction is where you're supposed to push it if you want your engine to shut up. I tried tightening some rods to make it not go as far back, and it helped for a while but eventually went back to usual.

Is there anyway I can look around my car and see what's going on with the starter? I have a set of metric wrenches and stuff so I can do simple mechanical work.

Thanks

[79Mercy]

Sounds like the NSS(Neutral Safety Switch) to me, or could be worn shifter bushings causing the switch not to full engage. Next time this happens wiggle the shifter or put it in neutral.

[toomany MBZ]

I'll agree, to check if the starter is okay, jump two of the screws in the junction box in front of the battery. That will bypass the NSS.
You have a fuel issue too, you say you've adjusted the rods, I'm thinking linkage rods, usually a bushing will cause a little to no acceleration problem, so maybe that won't do anything.
Unplug the shut off actuator below the IP, see if that helps, (it provides vacuum to shut off the fuel flow, if there is a leak in the ignition switch, vacuum will be allowed to get to it when you don't want it to) just be aware you won't be able to shut off the car, but that's another issue. Does it idle okay when you first start?
You've started your tool box, good.

[splnter]

Alright, I got the car problem. I think something was just off but it's working now.

You said to shut off the actuator below the IP, what's the IP?

About idling, I usually have to give the car gas right when I turn it on to get the motor going, and then it usually idles fine. Sometimes after ~7 seconds it'll shut off, but then once I turn it back on it'll be fine.

[kerry]

There's no junction box in front of the battery to jump the starter on a 116SD. The junction box is under the battery in my 79SD. It's very difficult to access. It's not uncommon to get voltage drop thru the wiring on these cars, not providing enough oomph to the solenoid to engage the starter. That's also a possible cause of your problem in addition to the NSS.
An 80 SD should also have an idle adjustment knob on the dash on the left. Try turning up the idle and see if it stops the stalling problem.

[toomany MBZ]

Okay, I'm not familiar with a 116, thanks.
The IP is the Injection Pump.

[splnter]

I see no knob for adjusting idling near my dashboard. I'm going to try the IP thing this weekend probably.

Also, is there a recommended motor oil to use? My car is leaking it and I need to add another quart >_>

[showme]

My starter switch slowly went bad, and when I turned it sometimes before I changed it out, I would have nothing. Not saying this is your problem, but it happened to me. The old lockset was shot. Got one pretty cheap at Auto house in Phoenix. As far as oil, there are a lot of opinions. I use Rotella 15\40 by the gallon.

[splnter]

Alright, well things are working well. I happen to have a 2nd fuel tank in my car someone installed before I owned it attempting to convert to veggie oil, but they never finished and left me the tank.

The little meter that keeps track of how much gas I have in my tanks isn't working, and a mechanic said it may be due to the excess fuel in both tanks. My car also dies sometimes when turning left and I'm low on fuel.

I was considering removing it. It shouldn't be that hard of a process would it? It's bolted in, but nothing I can't remove. Mainly just worried about the mechanics and such.

Also, my odometer is broken. Is there anyway I can fix this as well?






You'll have to turn your heads a little >_>

[Stevo]

Which one is Sandy

Oh "gas" in your tank could present a problem

[Squiggle Dog]

It could still be a bad starter. I went through maybe 4 parts store starters until I demanded a refund and installed a used one that was still working months later when I sold the car. Parts store starters are junk, German Bosch rebuilds are the best way to go (but expensive at $300).

[dantheman67]

It would be worth noting electrical troubleshooting procedure. Use your voltmeter and observe the voltage on several parts of your car when your friend/assistant is attempting to start it. Specifically:

-Voltage before/after the Neutral Safety Switch (not my expertise)
-Voltage between the alternator and starter (did that today)

I have done a decent amount of electrical work on my car (diagnosing non-functional A/C, replacing cabin blower, alternator voltage regulator change) and fully recommend obtaining an electrical diagram for your system. It makes life much easier.

For me, it's pretty much come down to "does this fit the symptoms 100%?" and "does the voltmeter agree with it?"

[splnter]

I have no volt meter >_>

Any reasons for why my right low beam will only work when I have my high beams on?

[dantheman67]

Highly recommend you buy a voltmeter. They are very inexpensive and will serve as a valuable tool for your troubleshooting.

[leathermang]

If your high and low beams are kerosene lamps you do not need a volt meter...
if they are run by electricity... you have to have a volt meter to do anything productive.