sdl intake manifold removal question

[rosenfe]

im taking manifold off to replaceglowplugs,i ve seen a thread here somewhere about this,i know i need a 6mm hex is that correct?,do i need to take hardlines off or just remove brackest from manifold.whats the best tool to get at manifold hex screws(its tight in there) and is their a torque sequence and lbs

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by rosenfe

im taking manifold off to replaceglowplugs,i ve seen a thread here somewhere about this,i know i need a 6mm hex is that correct?,do i need to take hardlines off or just remove brackest from manifold.whats the best tool to get at manifold hex screws(its tight in there) and is their a torque sequence and lbs

You do not need to take the hardlines off just unbolt the brackets attaching them to the manifold, sane with the cruise actuator.

6 mm is the correct Allen head size, many can be gotten to with a 3/8" drive Allen wrench socket, a couple of the rear ones cylinder 4 and 5 and possibly 6 are harder to get at with 3/8" tools. I bought a separate 6 mm 1/4" drive swivel socket and use a 1/2" long little section of Allen wrench in that socket, either glue that little stub into the socket or have another couple of similar sizes pieces for when it falls out and down into the unknown below! With that swivel/Allen combo you can get at the hardest bolts easier. I also have a long 6 mm ball head Allen wrench that makes it easier to spin the bolts out after they are cracked free and to get then started and run in before giving then a final torque when you're putting things back together.

Make certain that the Allen head bolt recesses are clean and the tool well seated before applying force to it, working on the engine after it's been brought up to temperature makes it easier and probably warmer and more comfortable depending on where your located.

I find that a ratcheting flex head Gear Wrench is very useful for the connections between the wiring loom and the glow plugs, a cheapo Chinese large long pair of curved point needle nose pliers is very useful to grab and hold the electrical connector lug to keep that from turning with the 8 mm nut attaching it to the glow plug stud when you're undoing that. If you don't hold it from turning you can twist and break the wire, just creating a problem! Giving these connections a spray of penetrant when you start the job will allow then to soak a little as you work on the manifold itself so that by the time you get to then they will come free a little easier.

Glow plugs themselves are 12 mm you need at least a medium length socket to accommodate the electrical stud's extra length, a universal swivel and some extensions. I try to break them free with a wrench first then socket to fully remove them. I use alight coat of an anti-seize product called Tef-Gel when reinstalling then, you can get it at West Marine or Boat US usually, you just want something compatible with aluminum.

Best thing to do first is to unfasten and remove the large black vacuum trunk line between the vacuum pump and the break booster, it is just in the area where you will very likely rest or brace your forearms when working on this side of the engine, if you're lucky you'll only snap the branch nipple off in the process, if not you might break the whole line when that glow plug breaks free and you lean to far! Be careful of the over boost sensor on the manifold when it's off the engine, the sensor's electrical connection stud sticks out and can easily catch on something as you swing things around or lay it aside upside down.

Sorry don't have the torque specs off hand at this moment, good luck!

[oldiesel]

Northern tool has a nice set of ball end allen wrenches,sizes 3,4,5,6 are 1/4" drive and 7,8,9,and 10 are 3/8 drive they are short so can be used with a u-joint or wobble extension in tight places.I find them very handy and if i remember right they were only around $12.oo Don

[rosenfe]

thanks for the detail,any tips about installing with gasket

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by rosenfe

thanks for the detail,any tips about installing with gasket

The intake gasket? That is pretty straight forward and usually doesn't present any problems. The gasket is fiber but has some type of rubberised sealer in place already and as such usually stays in place as you're putting things together because the rubber stuff acts like it's kind of tacky. The intake for the crossover pipe is the same type of construction. The nice thing is they usually a reuseable to some extent.

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by oldiesel

Northern tool has a nice set of ball end allen wrenches,sizes 3,4,5,6 are 1/4" drive and 7,8,9,and 10 are 3/8 drive they are short so can be used with a u-joint or wobble extension in tight places.I find them very handy and if i remember right they were only around $12.oo Don

Ball-end Allen tools are quite useful in the right circumstances for sure. On the other hand I would almost never use them for either attempting to break a fastener free or applying final torque if I could avoid it.

The very design of the ball head essentially creates a minimum tool face which then interfaces with the fastener's contact surfaces. If you look at these tools usually you end up with a thin strip of the tool contacting the fastener and even less if it's canted at any angle. In my experience that is a recipe for stripped fastener disaster! These Allen head cap screws are in my opinion prone to stripping out and I take every precaution to make sure they don't.

In this particular case there are a dozen chances for either success or failure and one stripped fastener can stop all progress either causing a whole new project direction or a reversal of the process until a later time when you can deal with that obstacle! A skillful mechanically inclined operator can overcome most problems of this nature with a hammer and cold chisel but it’s seldom quick or pretty!

These less expensive sets are all right for general working on stuff, but it's my experience that as less exact dimensioned lower quality tool can easily cost you more time and effort and increase frustration for some tasks. As an example I would give the 8 mm Allen head cap screw which attaches the motor mount to the chassis the utmost respect, I have a very nice Stahlwille tool that I use just for that purpose. Because the consequences of a failure to remove that fastener and the effort to remove it after stripping it out makes the $20 for that single tool seem cheap by comparison. Allen key tools are particularly susceptible to wear on their working ends that get tapered and smaller dimensioned than when they are factory fresh, the nice thing is that you can usually restore the tool to good working condition by simply cutting the first 1/4-1/2" off and back to get to the unworn meat of the tool.

For someone trying to accomplish something over the weekend on a daily driver that needs to be back on the road come Monday morning, it can be a royal pain in the a$$ when something that could be simple goes awry.

[rosenfe]

i got manifold off without a problem,used long 6mm ball hex socket,gasket was toast,had been leaking at #1 ,have to get reamer and ordered gasket,im going to take my time putting it together,deep 12mm socket is needed .anybody know if i need to torque bolts in a specific pattern,what torque?

thanks for the help.

[rosenfe]

i did lose clip that locks end of cc rod,anybody have a part# for that

[Hit Man X]

Do not waste your time removing it.

Just remove the cruise control servo then you can access the four rear glow plugs with ease. The front is also easy. Number two is a pain but you can manage with some fuel line to help it start to thread.

Again, remove the cruse servo and you will be shocked at the space available. Four 5mm allen bolts I believe.

[rosenfe]

well i had already taken rod out,but it was connected to manifold ,should have unbolted it and also unbolted crusue control-i will still do that to get extra room,but i need to find clip i lost that keeps rod locked at end.