My A/C isn't cold. Answers? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Cr from Texas · #16 07-16-2010, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I would just love to see the bill to know what the heck the mechanic charged you for...
200ish for a new compressor, 200 ish max for new hoses, 50 new expansion valve, I'm guessing a used fan from a 140, maybe 25.00 um 20.00 R134, 1105 labor?

OEM hoses are a lot more than $200 for a set! The one with the manifold is almost $400 alone. Too bad they did all this work and didn't use R12. I'd take it back.

RML · #17 07-16-2010, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjbrown

Fastlane lists the compressors for the W123, but when you click on them it comes up "PARTS UNAVAILABLE FOR THIS ITEM" or some such. Perhaps it would help if it said 'contact us for help on this item' if they indeed have them/sell them.

Try All Parts Express. You can start there and compare other price options if you want to.

Hit Man X · #18 07-16-2010, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4thesporty

Where can you find a new R4 for $200 ish? Let me in on your secret

Bought mine at AutoZone recently. It was about $230 with tax? Company is here in Dallas, Texas.

RichardLSU · #19 07-16-2010, 09:47 PM

Well, my receipt is down south, and I'm in KC right now so I can't list off everything but I believe it was around 350 for the compressor. The 1600 also included all new belts and transmission cooler lines (both) + labor if that makes any difference. I'd taken the car to a few shops around Shreveport and this was the only place that would touch it because it was a Mercedes. I guess I got bent over on that one.

Anyways, I have taken it back to them and the explanation I got was that because the headliner was taken out of the car that it wasn't insulating properly and that should I get the headliner redone it should make my air blow colder? Seemed like BS to me but I was in a rush and they weren't willing to fix it. Once I get back in a few weeks I will go back to them, receipt in hand and ask for a better explanation.

I know the compressor kicks on because of a noticeable loss of power/increase fuel consumption when I turn it on. It seems like there is no refridgerant but the system holds pressure and all the lines are new. I'm still at a loss.

RichardLSU · #20 07-16-2010, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thayer

Pinch off your hose from the monovalve to the heater core, if that does it then buy the monovalve repair kit.

If not, Then take it to the guy you just gave the money to and say..."its not cold"

You paid more than alot of people make in a month, you have purchased your answer.

Hose from the monovalve? Picture please?

thayer · #21 07-16-2010, 10:55 PM

I believe that it is the furthest to the right, you will need to look at the bottom of the valve to see which one goes from the monovalve into the car.

If your hoses are in good shape, just pinch it off with a pair of needle nose vice grips.

RichardLSU · #22 07-21-2010, 01:57 AM

Ok, I'll be getting my car out of the shop tomorrow morning (its getting its roof repainted after a highway incident...) and I'll pinch the hose and see if that fixes it.

Something else occurred to me, during the winter time, I can turn on the heater while the car idles and it will warm up the inside, but once I get going the heater blows cold. Once I come to a stop again, say at a stoplight (though that's usually not long enough) it will begin to warm up again.

I haven't had a successful attempt in seeing if that problem happens in reverse. In any case the air blowing out of the vents feels just like the fan is on.

Also, I reviewed the receipt, it was almost 1500, not 1600 dollars. That included a drier along with compressor, new hoses, some sort of switch, there were a few indecipherables, belts, transmission cooler lines and labor.

ashedd · #23 07-21-2010, 03:09 AM

oh jesus...... just over $200 at advance for a NEW R4 compressor.

Just don't give a hyper link to another parts place. If the forum was not able to make ends meet they would ask for donations and finally start charging for forum use if that didn't do it.... been there done that with another forum.

Free forums are great and I love them but helping people out who are perhaps low on funds is even better. allparts and the other one is a GREAT place to get hard to find stuff... I generally buy stuff online from another source because it's cheaper. But I have indeed spent some money here at the forum... lots of money.

I hope you get the a/c worked out. I know very well the frustration of trying to get it to work properly. Goodluck.

ashedd · #24 07-21-2010, 03:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardLSU

Ok, I'll be getting my car out of the shop tomorrow morning (its getting its roof repainted after a highway incident...) and I'll pinch the hose and see if that fixes it.

Something else occurred to me, during the winter time, I can turn on the heater while the car idles and it will warm up the inside, but once I get going the heater blows cold. Once I come to a stop again, say at a stoplight (though that's usually not long enough) it will begin to warm up again.

I haven't had a successful attempt in seeing if that problem happens in reverse. In any case the air blowing out of the vents feels just like the fan is on.

Also, I reviewed the receipt, it was almost 1500, not 1600 dollars. That included a drier along with compressor, new hoses, some sort of switch, there were a few indecipherables, belts, transmission cooler lines and labor.

What the hell do transmission cooler lines have to do with a/c? Anyway... your mono valve may be bad. All mine are good but I read that a bad one may give cold air on the highway. Someone will surely chime in.

RichardLSU · #25 07-21-2010, 07:33 AM

Well, the transmission cooler lines were actually the reason it went into the shop in the first place. One of the belts broke and whipped around and sliced a gash in both of them. While it was in the shop I had them "fix" the a/c too.

vstech · #26 07-21-2010, 12:02 PM

ahhhh. so the car went in for transmission service, and a/c... 1500 is getting more understandable. did you have the trans fluid replaced? radiator? filter? gasket... I'd love to see a scan of the recipt!

RichardLSU · #27 07-22-2010, 02:09 AM

I'll be in Louisiana tomorrow and I'll get a look at it and see if I can decipher it, if ya'll are interested.

vstech · #28 07-22-2010, 08:32 AM

OMG! I love the "torn headliner is causing your air temp to be high" line! I GOTTA remember that one! the only thing a torn headliner will cause is sweating and water collecting on the uninsulated steel dripping on your head!

RichardLSU · #29 08-24-2010, 01:24 PM

Ok, for those of you interested, I took it back to the shop that fixed my a/c. They put some dye in the system and found a leaking low pressure switch on the drier. The High pressure switch was replaced. I'll fix it and fill it back up and we'll see how it goes. Thanks for all your help!

rrgrassi · #30 08-24-2010, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardLSU

Ok, for those of you interested, I took it back to the shop that fixed my a/c. They put some dye in the system and found a leaking low pressure switch on the drier. The High pressure switch was replaced. I'll fix it and fill it back up and we'll see how it goes. Thanks for all your help!

Um, there are two switches on the drier...one is a pressure switch, typically a low pressure type. I changed mine out to a hi/low type. The problem is, when you remove that switch on a charged system, you vent the entire charge, as it needs to be in contact with the freon.

The second switch is a temp switch that controls the aux fan mounted in front of the condensor. That one can be changed out with a charged system because it does not need contact with the freon.

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