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  #1  
Old 07-21-2010, 09:25 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Replacing vacuum pump, how long?

FSM makes it look easy. I am dubious. Just remove vac line and 6 allen bolts?

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  #2  
Old 07-21-2010, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
FSM makes it look easy. I am dubious. Just remove vac line and 6 allen bolts?
One of the first things I did. Very simple, but make sure you have a new paper gasket to go between the engine and the pump.
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  #3  
Old 07-21-2010, 11:06 AM
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just 6, 5mm allen bolts, dont round them out or it will be a long job... Helpful to have a long allen key cause getting a normal bit is a problem due to clearance on a few of them.

Going back on start one bolt a few turns then work the oppisite side as you will be working against the spring for the roller
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:29 AM
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Be careful on the bottom allen, its easy to strip out. When you reinstall it rotate the engine too have the "rollercoster track" VALLEYS on the timing device vertical (too take the pressure off the roller). Be sure to check the TD for lateral play also
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:38 AM
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I found it helped to remove the power steering belt.
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  #6  
Old 07-21-2010, 11:52 AM
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which car?
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:11 PM
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Very easy on 61x. PB blaster ahead of time, clean the hex recesses in the caps well. A wobble 5mm doesn't hurt as you don't have a straight shot at the bottom one. Not crucial to orient the cam on the engine, just put in a couple of the screws and take it down a few turns on each side till snug, add the rest. I tightened screws on opposite sides instead of sequential to avoid puckering the shell or gasket. Suppose an angle drill or easy out if you strip a head. Angle drills cheaper at HF than a set of easy outs.
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  #8  
Old 07-21-2010, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
TD
Whats the TD?


Do I need to get under the car or can all this be done from the top?
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2010, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Whats the TD?


Do I need to get under the car or can all this be done from the top?
TD, timing device.

I get the bottom allens from under the car.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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  #10  
Old 07-21-2010, 05:33 PM
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Did everything from the top. 5mm socket with extension got most. Long 5mm got the rest. In and out in 1.5 hr. Cleaned the allen bolts with a dental pick and then made sure the drivers were well seated before applying pressure. Thanks for the tip about turning the engine over (I did this anyways to make sure the drive plate wasnt fubar). Def had to take off the power steering pump belt (needed tightening anyways.


Havent taken the cover off but it looks like the check valve got sucked in. I have a rebuild kit somewhere and will rebuild the old to recoup my losses. Better safe than sorry.
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  #11  
Old 07-21-2010, 06:00 PM
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You had a "rebuilt" to stick in ? good to have another on hand by rebuilding the old one
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2010, 06:03 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
You had a "rebuilt" to stick in ? good to have another on hand by rebuilding the old one
No I put a new one in. That is an excellent point tho. I have been amassing a whole car worth of spare parts.
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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
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#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2010, 08:46 PM
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Me too, I'm sticking with these cars as long as possible
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2010, 09:15 PM
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Do you mean like multiple doobies by dubious
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2010, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
I have been amassing a whole car worth of spare parts.
Join the club.

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