Hello,

This is about a 77 240D a friend got recently.

The car was standing for over a year and didn't want to start.
I suspected stuck rings, so I did the brake-fluid treatment (overnight), and it helped.
Almost 300 miles after I still suspect the compression is low (haven't tested it yet).

My question is: Is there any chance a second BF treatment could improve things? Or did running of the engine ensure the rings are loose, and pouring more brake fluid in wouldn't make any sense?

Thanks for your thoughts,
Aleš

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1983 240D "Matylda" 4sp conversion 312-blue
1983 240D "Jituš" 4sp 623-beige
1983 240D "Tina" 4sp 751-grey (pwr windows)

I would avoid the brake fluid. Using synthetic oil will probably clean it out as good as possible. I would run it a couple of oil changes on synthetic then switch back to dino oil.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Stuck rings is typically not a problem in a diesel engine like it can be in a gas engine. In gas engines the by product of combustion is carbon. In a diesel engine, the by product is goo. Goo is oilly as opposed to a crusty substance.

I agree with Tom, just drive it and keep fresh, quality oil changed often.

You won't know until you do the test. And as the others said, running good synthetic oil will clean it out over time. I'd use Mobil 1 or AMSOIL over the other brands simply because I know they work cleaning things out. Worn rings and cylinders won't get fixed by anything but a rebuild.
If the rings are coked up and you want a quick fix, and additives are very controversial, I recently tried Auto-RX in a Jeep 4.0 I picked up cheap because it had blow-by and black exhaust. I figured I had nothing to lose since I've got another engine in the garage. The blow-by was gone in just a couple hundred miles and compression jumped 20 points in all cylinders. Auto-RX is a detergent, an Esther I think, not a flush or thick oil. Controversial and I only have my one anecdotal experience, never tried it on a diesel. OK, beat me up, especially the guys who never tried it.
If you don't have excessive blow by and aren't burning excessive oil, I'd just go with the synthetic Mobil 1 or AMSOIL, drive it on the highway, and change it at 2500 miles. For all I know, the oil change and clean PCV lines may have cured the Jeep.

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1992 300D 305+K miles
1978 240D Sold

Soaking with Marvel Mystrey Oil has worked for some and it is not as bad as Brake Fluid in your Engine.
It worked on my Volvo that sat in my yard over a year and when I got it runing I drove it for about 6 months with a Thermostat that was not getting the Engine hot enoug. The result of the 2 situations was I had hazey gray Smoke. I put about 1/4 cup of Marvel Mystrey Oil through the Glow Plug Holes; soaked for 5 days; rotated the Engine and repeated the process for another 3 days.
Rotated the Engine to blow off any excess; assembled it and changed the Oil.
It worked for me.

If the compression Ring Grooves in the Piston are worn it is possible for them to carbon back up over a period of time.
Also I have scraped hard Carbon out of the Ring Grooves on a lot of Diesel Pistons in the past.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Id try Marvel or plain old ATF. ATF has alot of detergents in it so it cleans good.

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87' 300D, Currently undergoing an OM606 swap/build! SUPERTURBO!!!
03' 2500HD Dmax + goodies!
82' 300SD, parting out!
93' 300TE 4matic, parting out!
83' 240D Project Cheap Drive
89' 300E, parting out!
74' Datsun 510 wagon
88' RX7 10thAE, 13B track car build soon

Skippy~ As for perception: Drive what you like and can afford. Those who don't like it can supply vacuum to one of your components. LOL

If you need parts, I have some!