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  #1  
Old 07-29-2010, 03:09 AM
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Posts: 95
Ignition Switch HELP

I am attempting to replace the ignition switch in my 1982 240D.

My repair manual tells me to insert a small screw driver (or wire) into the cutout with the ignition switch in the I position.

I have been trying to remove this thing for the better part of an hour . . . it appeared to be straight forward but I cannot get anything to move.

My manual is not very clear . . . insert small screw driver then unscrew the cap . . . what the heck is the "cap"? The black piece surround the silver "tumbler" area?

Everything else had gone pretty smoothly . . . cluster came out, no sweat, but I am absolutely stumped right now.

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1982 240
460,000 miles total
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:33 AM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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Place key into the tumbler.
turn to position 1
with a straightened out paper clip, stick it into the hole in the face of the tumbler. there should be a little round hole for the wire. push it in
the black collar should now unscrew.
once it is unscrewed, pull it and the tumbler out.

now if you need to replace the ignition switch. it is the piece on the rear of the steering lock assembly.
you will need to have the key in position 1
reach in with the cluster removed, pull the electrical plug out.

now if you need to go deeper and replace the steering lock assembly. there is a clamp on the tube connected to the steering column.
It is a 10mm bolt. remove the clamp, slide to one side. there is a little spring loaded button that needs to be pushed in. feel along the tube for it, push it in, twist the assembly so the pin stays depressed. then work the assembly to the right and out.

Hope this is what you are looking for.

the left picture you can see the little button to depress.



Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #3  
Old 07-29-2010, 05:18 AM
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Thanks Charlie!

I did get it out and replaced my ignition switch. I also cleaned up the "tumbler" and it is working very well now.

My original problem still remains . . . my battery light is on when the engine is off, even if the key is removed.

This forum led me to believe that the ignition switch was the culprit . . . but the problem is still there.

SIGH

back to the drawing board.
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1982 240
460,000 miles total
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  #4  
Old 07-29-2010, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holtonmusicman View Post
Thanks Charlie!

I did get it out and replaced my ignition switch. I also cleaned up the "tumbler" and it is working very well now.

My original problem still remains . . . my battery light is on when the engine is off, even if the key is removed.

This forum led me to believe that the ignition switch was the culprit . . . but the problem is still there.

SIGH

back to the drawing board.
Some issue with terms; the Ignition Switch is the part with the Wires going into it; a separate part from the Lock Tumbler that you replaced.

When I was a kid the Ignition Switch/Lock Tumbler was all one assembly so the whole thing was called an Ignition switch.
Since that time the Ignition Switch has been separated from the Lock Tumber; but, calling the Lock Tumbler the Ignition Switch has persisted even though the Ignition Switches is located somewhere else now.

Somewhat like calling the Accelerator Pedal the Gas Pedal even though you have a Diesel Engine or people saying they ran out of Gas when they really ran out out of Fuel.

As far as your No Charging Light staying on the Ingnition Switch was one of the parts that could cause that to happen.
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2010, 01:57 PM
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I guess I wasn't clear . . .

I replaced the ignition switch and cleaned and lubed the tumbler (if that's what it's called). I could not believe the amount of crud that came out of that thing!

Once I had the ignition/lock assembly out of the car (not much space and difficult to get underneath at my height and weight!) it was a pretty straightforward job.

I had everything reinstalled and started her up (I had been up 24 hours at this point) and then couldn't get it to shut down . . . I immediately remembered that I hadn't reconnected the vacuum lines to the switch assembly . . . so back out with the instrument cluster . . . on with the lines.

I believe the only thing left that could cause the light to remain on is the altenator . . . which seems odd to me since the light it out when it is running (actually the light is out in every key position except the 0 or off position)

I was having problems with my GP's and then this happened. Still waiting for a GP relay (I ordered a used one that was toast) to see if the GPs will function.
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1982 240
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:28 PM
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Location: Matthews, NC
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Disconnect the small wire from the back of the alterntor. I bet the light will go off. If it does, just replace the regulator and all will be good. If the light goes off but the regulator doesn't fix it then I am afraid you will have to replace the alternator.
Paul
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  #7  
Old 07-29-2010, 11:17 PM
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Paul,

I did that . . . light went out.

The alternator is pretty old anyway so I just ordered a replacement.

Do you (or anyone) know of a source for new connector plugs? (For the back of the alternator wires) Mine are not horrible, but the plastic is old and brittle and I would rather just do this now as opposed to when I have a problem.

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1982 240
460,000 miles total
140,000 on Rebuild
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