OK Out of the blue my 86 SDL stalls or shuts off at low speed?? All I did recently was get A/C charged which still needs attention and put in a new kilma which did solve the compressor clutch not engauging

So for no reason when I let off the throttle and slow down the car dies
It doesn't do it all the time but once is too often for me!!
I tried to see if it was while I am turning and braking at the same time
if it happened when I was slowing in a straight line after "dumping" my foot off the throttle
and there is no differance

my filters tank screen lines injectors rebuilt (by me) are all good with not many miles on them

I will say I did notice the same day this "stalling" started that I would leave a light or stop sign on my way out of town

and it (meaning the trans or motor I think trans but..) would hit a flat spot the trans was holding on the gears to long normally I let up on throttle and it shifts and it would still do that but it just seems it needed more throttle

If you have read my other posts you know I have done alot to this car I can usually figure things out but this sounds like something stupid I am not seeing like.......(im thinking)...fuel tank vent plugged!!
It has been having a big rush of air when I take the cap off
Any help is good help
thanks, Noah

Does it do it with the car in park or neutral? Like if you rev it up and then let off the gas real fast does it stall (or act like it wants to) when it first gets down to idle speed?

Idle speed is electronically controlled. There's a dial just inboard of the brake booster that sets idle speed in 20- or 50 rpm increments. Pull the dial out then set it to a higher or lower number. If the engine responds, keep looking for a problem. It the engine doesn't respond, you might have a bad OVP relay or some other problem with the electronic idle system.

Sixto
87 300D

I put the ELR (idle dial on differant settings and it doesn't change the idle speed on the tach it's always about 650-700RPM

reving the engine in park or nuetral doesn't kill it
but it was bucking alittle when starting it the first time of the day

I would like to get this thing timed properly
ever since I got my I.P. "serviced" it has not been as good
I used to touch the key or think about touching it and it would fire in half a second
new starter
optima yellow top
new alt plus voltage reg
new OVP
new kima
belt

Go to the tools forum and rent an A-B timing light. It takes the guesswork out of timing the IP.

I've never had to deal with a bum ELR but I'd start with checking the wiring and connectors to the round plastic actuator at the tail end of the IP. My guess is it's been this way for a while if the idle is up at 650-700 rpm without benefit of ELR. Someone must have jacked up base idle from 500 rpm or whatever it should be to keep the engine from stalling.

Sixto
87 300D

I just did a shake down run to see if I could get it to stall

and I wasn't able to but...When I start the car (it takes more cranks than it should)
then it starts and the RPMs are at 500
it sounds real slow bearly sounds like a diesel (603.961 is pretty quiet anyway)
then it will go up to 700RPM or so

I shut it down again start it same 500RPM I bump the throttle goes to 700 or so

I did some mash your motor hard brakeing manuvers
so slow speed turning stuff
hit it let off the throttle

not everytime but sometimes it was dropping down to 400-500rpm and almost stalling out

Iam just throwing this out there
it seemed it was dipping down to these low rpm's
in conjuction with the trans shifting

example from a stop hit the throttle just as it up shifts I let off and rpm's fall

Or as I slow down it down shifts to "the stopping gear or idle gear" I've heard they start in 2nd some time 1st what ever it thinks is good at the time?
I will check out the timeing tool deal
I want to do it myself because I do everything else myself I don't really want "A shop" to touch my car
You wouldn't want anybody else to touch your girlfriend or wife right! To me there isn't much differance

How would I get a hold of MB doc or billy bob to see if I can use / rent their AB light if they are close I'd like to drive
I have a compression tester I'll put up for rent soon

You might make a better case about the TV remote, but your question makes me wonder who's allowed to touch my wife's gynecologist's Pantera

Your car should start in first gear from a full stop every time. If you feel the downshift while coasting or braking to a stop, check that the bowden cable is set properly. Also check that your VCV is sending enough of a vacuum signal to the transmission at idle and low engine speed. At least 15" Hg, preferably closer to 20" Hg.

I have the opposite idling problem sometimes. The idle will 'stick' at 8-900 rpm as I slow to idle. Blipping the pedal once or a few times gets the idle back to ~650 rpm.

I don't think it will help but you might clean and lubricate the throttle linkage.

Sixto
87 300D

Go this this section of the forum -

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=93

See who has the tool you want to rent and get in touch with them directly by email or PM. Click on that users name to see contact options. Most folks with tools to rent don't read that thread so it makes little sense to post your wish list.

Sixto
87 300D

I will T-into the line that goes to the vac modulator and see what readings I get at idle and read them as it shifts (I'll just bring it in through the window and drive around)
If anyone can do this and post their findings with their perfect shifting WA040 4-speed auto that would be great

As for adjusting the cable I will do my homework

AS for who touches the pantera ford guys and italians

I still have not found out why my 300SDL is stalling at low speeds
But I put in the old kilma kickdown to see if there was any differance and there is none

It only stalls at low speeds and only after I release my foot off the pedal at like 5mph or less it will idle along in gear and no amount of steering braking gets it to stall

Here is what I can tell you
the trans is shifting like crap since (or because)of this low speed stalling
The oil pressure bobbs when it stalls or is about to stall (not dangerously low but never did that before) it always idled at 2 bar and pegged when driving. I change oil filter housing O-rings everytime!!

Heres my ??? is it possible for something in the trans to "pull the motor down" into the stall
the trans is holding gears too long and some up shifts are followed by a down shift for no reason no extra force on throttle
and some shifts will rap up to 3500 4000rpm with just a smooth even pressure on throttle
then I let off alittle then it will up shift

Double check the connection at the idle actuator at the back end of the IP.

I suppose there could be a problem with the torque converter or transmission dragging the engine. I can only think of replacement as a test. Maybe you can remove the 6 bolts holding the torque converter to the flexplate, push back the torque converter towards the transmission then see if the engine idles at the expected ~650 rpm.

Please define crap There are two common complaints:

1) shift points too high/timing of shifts = typically caused by incorrect bowden cable setting or faulty kickdown system

2) shift action too jarring/smoothness of shifts = typically caused by faulty vacuum system or modulator

You seem to describe the first case but this won't have anything to do with engine idle speed. Disconnect the bowden cable from the throttle linkage. The transmission should upshift very early but should do so consistently. If so, the bowden cable might be sticking. Clean and lube it as best you can and make sure it isn't kinked. Downshift with the shift lever for safety if necessary while testing.

Sixto
87 300D

I was able to put the ELR in differant positions and get it to idle higher but the increase (and decrease when spun down to lower numbers) in idle is only showing up in the engine I can hear it/feel it/see it
but no change on the tach

It still stalls and it only seems to happen at the most embarassing times.

as for the trans in a normal consistant throttle pressure type of take off
it holds on to gears too long

it will rap up to 3500 or 4000rpm then shift
(I know it will do this when you stomp on it but this is easy cruising and shouldn't do that)
in 3rd and 4th gear 1st and 2nd aren't so bad

then it hits like a flat spot around 40mph I push on the throttle and it builds speed slowly it wasn't like that before this stalling issue

in order to get it to up shift after it raps up I have to let off the pedal alittle for it to shift

than when it does shift sometimes it immediatly downshifts

oh a I'll mention the clunk when it downshifts from 3rd to 2nd but that doesn't always happen

I'm sure I did say this before but this might be a symptom the car is harder to start now
I have to crank it for like 7 seconds and that started the same day

so that first day when I had to crank it awhile and it seemed a little grumpy I knew something was up because it took like 2-3 seconds to fire before this stalling thing

every vac. line in the engine bay has been replaced

For lack of a better diagnosis, you have a blockage developing in the oxidation catalyst. Remove the plug in the #1 exhaust runner or disconnect the exhaust upstream of the cat and see if performance improves.

Sixto
87 300D

Ok i'll pull that plug and see what it does and post it

I drove around yesterday after I pulled the bowden cable off at the ball socket
It shifts much smoother!!
and your right it does shift through the gears earlier
I still get a 2nd to 1st clunk at times

with the cable disconnected it really tames the rpms if I stomp on it it goes but it doesn't zoom up to 3500 it just pokes along gaining a steady speed

As for the stalling I was not able to get it to stall yesterday but got it close to stalling
It is most noticeable when
I am idleing and I push the throttle a little

like if you are in a parking lot and you push throttle to gain like 2mph or so
then I let off and it boggs RPM's dip on the tach
to 350 or 400
most of the time the engine recovers and stays running
but sometimes a slight pressure on throttle and let off will kill it
I did pull out the sensor on the bellhousing that reads the flywheel and cleaned it (thought there might be gunk or metal shavings on the magnet but it's all good) and no change in stalling
as a side note is that sensor where it reads RPM
I do know if the engine is running and it is unplugged it kills the motor
that is nice to know if your fuel shut off doesn't work and you need to kill the engine