I am going to Las Vegas from Idaho and need a cool car. I will put a fuse in the 14 block and it seems to control the horn, key buzzer and valve that makes the A/C cold. Is there a way to run a direct hot wire to make that valve open for ac and bypass so it works. It is a 84 300D.

Replace the #14 fuse and avoid using the kick-down switch. Just a good guess.

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

I have been toting with this problem and here is what I have figured out. The fuse is only blowing when I turn my dial to max Ac. If I let it blow anywhere else it works but if I turn it to lock it down to max Ac the fuse goes by by. Anyone had this issue before and know how to resolve it?

Your blower motor may be drawing too many amps at higher spped. If it's old there may be some restriction (crud, rust, worn parts). I just replaced mine as it was seizing up. may need a meter to see what's going on.

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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on...

Not sure of the fuse box on your W123, I sold mine years ago, but check these:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=253697&highlight=fuse

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=253443&highlight=fuse

Perhaps they have some insight to help you.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]