I am working on my 92 300D, 233K miles. I was having the ruff idle until it warmed up problem. I pulled the injectors and had them rebuilt. I the checked the timing chain stretch, it was 8 degrees. I ordered parts and rented the crimp tool and A B light timing tools. I had experienced help set up but family issues has held him up. I started in on my own so I can get these tools back. I rolled in the new chain, then wired both ends out to the sides to change the cam gear. The wire to the right chain end (drivers side ) broke and the chain slipped back. To add to my woes the other side slipped but didn't come all the way off as I am trying pull the right side back in place. I thought I got it right back where it was, on cam sprocket. The master link is put in but not crimped and the tensioner is still out. When I turn over crank to line up the cam marks I am at 15 degrees after TDC on the crank marker. Could the fix be as easy as taking master link back out and rotate crank backwards to move chain down a cam tooth at a time until crank matches up with cam lines. Or can I turn it backwards ? Would I have to roll in the old chain , then the new one again to keep it going in direction of engine rotation? I am thinking the cam lines/TDC has to be lined up while turning to the right or down with ratchet so all the slack is on the tensioner side. I have messed up here but If I can get my head straight on how to redo this, I think no harm has been done yet. Thanks for any help, Charlie Klippel

I am not sure but I would not expect an accurate reading with out the Timing Chain Tensioner installed.
And, Yes you can disconnect the link and move the Chain around.
Also, if the Chain Master Link had been crimped I believe you can remove the Camshaft Sprocket/Grear and jump some teeth with that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here's a reference of what you don't see -



I wouldn't be concerned about the chain coming off the IP or crank sprockets. There just isn't room for that to happen without turning the engine. It's a good sign that there's enough slack to loop the cam sprocket.

I'm with Diesel911, prime the tensioner and put it in place before turning the engine and checking timing marks.

If 15* ATDC at the crank is accurate, you're only off a tooth at the cam sprocket. Only meaning it's unlikely you bent valves by rotating the engine.

Again I agree with Diesel911, remove the tensioner and shift the chain on the cam sprocket without removing the master link. Don't forget to crimp the chain before buttoning up the engine!

Sixto
87 300D

Great pic sixto,
The sort of pic that should be in a DIY !!!

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

My engine didn't look that clean when new. That's a picture of a 603 from Dave M/gsxr's album.

Sixto
87 300D

I have moved the chain 1 tooth down on cam sprocket, which now puts me at 2 degrees before TDC on crank, with a new tensioner in and pumped up. I have pumped up the new tensioner till it is almost solid hard, it will stroke just a very little bit. Is this right ? The more I turn the motor over, the more the degrees would grow BTDC and more the tensioner loses it's hardness. I pulled tensioner, pumped it back up and repeated until deciding 2 degrees before TDC this is best I could get. Should I be alarmed to not be at 0 TDC ? Thanks for your help. Charlie Klippel

Sounds like you're there. Good job!

Sixto
87 300D

That's a good front view of a 602.

Did you get your engine back together?

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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png