So, I had the shocks on my 87 300D replaced by the tire shop owned by my father's friend one week ago. Noticed yesterday as I was stuck in traffic on my way to a concert that I had a "click" or sharp squeak when turning the wheel (not a prolonged groan and creak). It stopped doing it on the way home, but when I jacked it up at home and turned the steering wheel, you can really hear it, turning the wheel slightly to either side. Coming from left wheel. I don't have a buddy to turn while I listen (sad, I know) so I can't tell exactly the location. I will try unattaching the tie rod to rule that out or in. If it's not that, I'm guessing ball joint or shock. I've read many ball joint threads so I sort of know what to check for there ... but wondering what I should look at as far as the shock goes. Because I don't recall hearing this noise prior to having them installed (not to say it wasn't there, just didn't notice it), could be A) installed wrong or B) they installed a bum shock.
Just to add: No noise is noticeable when the car is in motion, including when I go over a speed bump or around a corner. I can only detect it when the car is sitting still and not even all the time then. It's most noticeable with the wheels off the ground, jacked up.

Incidentally, someone scuffed the heck out of my bumper while I was at the concert. Poor Bodhi did not have fun in Philly yesterday.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

There is a bearing between the front strut and the inner fender it attaches to to allow the strut to turn with the steering wheel. That might be the cause of the noise if it was in marginal condition prior to installing new shocks. Do you know if they were replaced?

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1623888&itempk=76143&mfr=Febi&weight=1.25

Sixto
87 300D

I don't believe they were replaced, at least they weren't listed separately on the invoice from the shop. I'll have to take a look at them when I get home ... if they're bad would I be able to tell visually?

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

I don't know how to judge by looking. You should be able to tell by looking if they're new.

This is a picture of one of mine with about 3 years of service.

Sixto
87 300D

Attached Thumbnails

 

Thanks! Will have a look and report back.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Looks like they just stuck new struts in the old bushings. They don't look real bad though. If I had my stethoscope and a friend, this would be easier.

Just for everybody's multimedia entertainment, here's a video of the sound (Droid lying under the car with it jacked up using a floor jack, both wheels up). I'm turning the steering wheel left to right ... sound comes right after a change of direction of the wheel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqC31K7RNlQ

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Tie rodends?

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

That's kind of what I'm hoping, simply because it's an easy job to do. Would be pretty easy to diagnose too, if I could get the wheels off my car. But apparently, Goodyear thinks you need 500 lb/ft of torque to hold a wheel on. So I spent the whole day trying to find my airtools and hookup my compressor to get the darn wheels off. I used four feet of pipe on a breaker bar and couldn't get the lug to break loose. That's ridiculous.
/rant

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

And with that kind of torque, it isn't unreasonable to think that the wheel has been damaged, or at least the lug-bolts stretched and should be replaced.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Well, that was a bit of exaggeration for dramatic effect. But it's definitely more than the 84 specified. I do have a batch of extra lug nuts off a parts car I've had for a while that I think I'll install. I'm concerned the old ones have been damaged (this is the third time I've had a tire shop do this), and the spare batch looks a lot better. Nothing was wrong with the car they came off.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Bodhi,
Did you stand on the end of the 4' of pipe ?
I use a proper wheel brace, have the car on the ground, put a bottle jack under the other end of the wheel brace to stop it slipping & stand on the end of the 4' . The torque you will apply is then 4X your weight. You can break the head off bolts if you try & tighten them that way !!

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

I thought of putting a chock in front of the wheel (or behind on the other side) because that was the problem I had, at a certain point it just made the car wheel move. I'll give it a try. I do have an air wrench but still haven't figured out the compressor (it came with the house, I need to get a refresher from the previous owner).
Course now I'm stuck at work until 2 a.m., what else is new?

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

If you jack the car up til the wheel is off the ground you should be able to tell if the tie rod end is loose by wiggling the wheel back and forth. I'd also have a look at the bottom of the front shocks to be sure none of the bolts are loose.

I probably would not worry about the lug bolts. If they were dangerously stretched I think they would snap off.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

lug bolt tightening is a serious issue with some shops. all "box stores" that change tires, have a rule to only snug the bolts with the impact gun, and final tighten them with a proper torque wrench to listed specs. turn them in to the bbb and take the car back to them and have them remove the bolts, measure them for stretch, and get a NEW set from the dealer and an invoice replacement! that ought to open their eyes. also, the shock could have been tightened the same ham fisted total, and damaged your bearing...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Having recently rebuilt the front end of my 87 300TD I would like to offer this.
First I would like to dispell the myth that there is a bearing in the 124 upper shock/strut mount. There is NO BEARING!
It is strictly a Rubber Isolator to reduce road vibrator transmitted to the body. The strut rod nut is tightened and the rod does not rotate when the wheel is turned.
Look at the top of the strut under the hood. It does not turn when you steer. The lower half of the shock/strut turns with the spindle.

Cars with the coil spring concentric to the strut do have a bearing to allow the upper end of the spring to rotate.

When you have the wheels hanging the strut is fully extended and may resist turning since it is topped out on its internal bumper.

I would look closely at the condition of the ball joints and tie rod ends.
Last year a ball joint separated while I was driving! Luckily at 35 mph, wheel tucked into the fender well, skidded to a stop, not fun.
It had passed PA state inspection not long before. Joint was dry and rusty inside due to boot failure and old age.
I recall some noise and a tendency to not self center coming out of a turn. Support the lower a frame to unload the ball joint and check for looseness. A pry bar helps with this.
Spraying a little lube on a suspect joint may help isolate it. Also creaking noise when you bounce the car could be a ball joint. Don't ignore its warning signs like I did!
I replaced ball joints, all tie rods, struts, idler bushing and steering damper.
Major improvement.
Hope this helps.

Now I just need to replace the rocker panels with the ones I cut out of a parts car last saturday! Great cars like this are hard for me to throw away!


Ed

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87 300TD (320K) #14 Head