Picture this, you're going 65mph then some ignoramus cuts off a semi in traffic. He locks them up and I decide to take advantage of my ABS as I was naturally adjusting the radio as this went down. Crisis averted.... POP.




I managed to limp home on the rear brakes.

It appears my tires are rubbing the front lines and wore them thin until they popped. Certainly an exciting afternoon. I thought they failed before I looked at them out of age so I ordered all 4 lines all the way around next day from Napa. It appears I am missing a clip. But what/where is it? Could I get away with zip tie on the strut? To me it looks like there is adequate length for one.

Any tricks to removing the front hoses? I hoses both sides down in PB blaster so tomorrow goes a little easier.

After sitting by my house for 10 minutes


BTW the oil in front of and behind the brake fluid is from the piece of **** beretta/lumina/cavalier that is usually there.

What year/model? Also, how do you like the drilled/slotted rotors?

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

1987 300D. Ebay d/s at half the price of OE style I can't complain. Do they make a difference? Not that I've noticed. The calipers/pads/rotors are all under 15k old so it stops better than all my friends W124s. But I have a feeling thats a function of new parts not better ones.

I bought a set at the local NAPA, seems I had $60 in the set of four.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I replaced my rear brake lines with Stainless Steel lines from here:
http://www.wrxtra.com/catalog/
Very satisfied!! They cost $45.55 shipped and look great. Craftsmanship appears to be excellent!!
As DieselPaul said...they stop great, but that may be due to newer parts. I have Zimmerman Cross Drilled Rotors and Akebono pads which are not quite as sticky as stock, but still perfectly acceptable. Once I changed lines, the pedal stiffened up A LOT. I still need to replace the front lines as well.

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1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head)
1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000
1981 300D - 250,000

$31.75 at mine. I gave the dude a smoke a while back on his break lol.

I'd have liked to buy a set of stainlesses but money is tight this week (just went on a vacation with the guys lol) and this is my daily. $31.75 with tax for all 4 to have me back on the road tomorrow had to do it.


Any thoughts as to why they were rubbing?

Do you know that the failed lines where the correct part originally? From the picture you've posted with the suspension at maximum extention is really looks as though the lines are stlll so long that they are bent, that doesnt seem right. Assuming stock rims and tires of course.

Perhaps those lines where just incorrect length when they where installed. It's also possible that the lines where installed in such a way that when the suspension compresses the lines loop/bend outward rather than inward. This can happen when the caliper is replaced and because of the thread seating difference the rubber line is then in a stressed position. The fix for that is to secure the rubber line to the caliper and then unfasten the rubber line at the interface with the hard line, the rubber line can then be rotated in the bracket so as to relieve as much twist/stress as possible, then the hard line is tightened into place with the rubber hose in its new position.

The caliper theory seems possible, I did calipers on it a year ago before I owned it. We spun the caliper about the hose then bolted the caliper down.

Are both front lines rubbing? It will be interesting to see if the new lines you just purchased are the same length?

Fast Lane lists the front hose as 36.5 cm long or 14 3/8" long!

Yes both fronts are rubbing.