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#1
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Steering lock repair
After having the nightmare of my key locking up and a new tumbler not repairing it.......
Curiosity got the best of me. "Warning: a steering lock assembly was destroyed in the process of making this pictorial" make sure you have a spare on hand before attempting The first few pictures will give you an idea of how it works and the locks to remove the barrel assembly Note: your ignition switch , stop switch and cam will have to be removed to disengage the barrel lock Also gently push with your finger on the back and you will feel the lock other wise the lock tab will break off
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes Last edited by soothappens; 08-18-2010 at 03:04 AM. |
#2
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Now these next few are what keep us awake at night until the key
turns again or we grind out the whole assembly This little pin is the thing that haunts your dreams !!! Notice the wear on the ramp it should travel up. This was the older one I sacrificed. My newer one was just as bad.
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#3
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Now for the fix.
After removing the barrel and latch mechanisms. Take a punch and push the pin down then tap it with a hammer. second picture shows the contents. Clean it up reassemble and reinstall it in your car , easy as that . It turns smooth as butter. The best part is you still have a steering lock. Look at the quality of the new parts casting in picture three. This is why I chose repair over replacement. The pin we removed is to prevent the steering rod from being pushed backwards but I figure if they can do that they still have to start it , so no loss there.
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#4
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which car was this out of?
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mjk '84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel) '84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car) '82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car) |
#5
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Sorry about that. Late night post. This was on the 81 300SD. The parts car was an 85 300SD. The 81 had the newly replaced lock assembly and the 85 had the factory one. The factory one was far superior to the replacement but the outer housing was damaged. the newer parts were a more porous cast and excessive cast slag was left on them. The older one was ground down and smoothed on the excess slag. Therefore I used the new housing and lock bar from the 81 and replaced the barrel portion with the older factory parts out of the 85. I even reused the older triangle lock for the barrel. The older chrome on this part was better prepared (you could see the copper under coating in the wear area ). The newer one was applied directly over the aluminum and was flaking and chipped. It showed excessive wear. There is absolutely no difference between the 81 and the 85 all parts interchanged. Not sure on the newer ones though.
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
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