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I really might try the torch. Today was a defeat because the flexx boots I got were too small for the big Mercedes cans; I ripped one open and the others just will not budge and open enough to go through the cans, so I'm getting a new set of larger ones that should work...
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I still kind of want to put new lube on the diff, so I'm trying the torch method, but I'm no longer taking it apart :) Thanks to all for your valuable input, you're all appreciated! |
Negative (And Pluses)
1. The VW in the Video WILL need AT LEAST one brake hose replaced.
[Notice how the "Skilled Technician",just hangs the Caliper by the Hose?] 2.Too Much incentive for the Tech to "Slap That Thang on There" AND Neglect proper inspection of the Joint's Innards. 3.'Not saying ANYTHING about the "Cleanliness" demonstrated. Plus 1.Lifetime Guarantee on the boots. |
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I have no ideal how I would hold the differential cover stationary enough off the car to apply real pressure. Make sure the hex is bottomed in the socket. I would not like to strip it. The one bolt that always makes me take real precautions is the top starter bolt. If it get striped It could be difficult. Both these bolts usually release with an initial loud snap noise in my experience with no heat especially. Yes I have found them very tight myself. Yet a combination of a little heat and leverage gets the differential plugs.. They may in fact be a little worse up here in the major rust belt as well. Some teflon tape might help isoate the dissimular metals a little on those plugs. |
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Thanks |
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I keep a roll of safety wire on hand for this purpose, and occasionally use it to actually secure stuff as well.
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