What Are Steps to Remove Cruise Amp? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

shertex · #1 08-21-2010, 05:20 PM

I want to remove my cruise amp to get it repaired (1991 300D). I'm going to try a cheap resolder before investing in diagnostics, etc. just to see what happens. From reading the following thread:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=200635

I know basically where it is, that I need to remove it and the bracket, and that I do so with a 10 mm socket.

But what I'm not clear on is what I need to remove to gain access and how I remove those things. I guess I'm asking some more basic questions, the answers to which are common knowledge to most folks here.

Thanks!

bobodaclown · #2 08-21-2010, 06:06 PM

it's not too hard. you basically remove the cover under the drivers side console. below the dash. It's black plastic.

shertex · #3 08-21-2010, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobodaclown

it's not too hard. you basically remove the cover under the drivers side console. below the dash. It's black plastic.

You you're talking about the big piece of molded black plastic that has several bolts/screws connecting? How exactly do I remove it? Do I remove ALL the screws? Then just somehow maneuver it out?

shertex · #4 08-21-2010, 06:42 PM

I assume I need to do PART of this?

http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/68-150.pdf

But I wouldn't assume I need to take this whole thing off.

scottmcphee · #5 08-22-2010, 01:36 PM

If you pop the hood before you start, you don't need to unscrew the release from the panel, and you can skip step 9 disconnect cable, just let the panel dangle down with those things still attached to it.

Then go at the cruise amp. A stubby screw driver helps.

I took out my amp a month ago (stopped holding the speed for long, just goes OFF by itself). It was a newer style amp, marked year 2001 (as per PO records it had been replaced then). When I inspected its soldering job really closely there was no cold solder issues to be found. Nothing gets hot on that board. It doesn't vibrate. It looked factory fresh. This newer style has a dummy plug on the back and is much more micro-controller based. I bet the "problem" was fussy software.

So I pulled another 1986 style amp from my parts car. I noticed this PO had done the resolder job on it. Put it in my car and now cruise works fine, again.

I wager a bet resoldering a newer style amp is pointless. I have a theory new amps are more sensitive to feedback variance from the cruise motor under the hood, specifically the potentiometer in that module may have a "rough" spot on it, maybe is getting less linear in some areas. The older style amp being much more of a discrete / analog design smooths out / averages irregularities from the feedback sensors. And if I refurb'd those parts, the newer amp would probably work fine. Just a hunch.

smitherz · #6 08-22-2010, 07:27 PM

BTW, If you are thinking of sending it to these guys... http://gdl-online.com/process.html They won't take it if you try to solder it. At least according to their site. See the "major policy info" on this page. http://gdl-online.com/begin1.html

shertex · #7 08-26-2010, 10:39 AM

Thanks, guys. Pulled the amps on both the 91 and the 92. Now it's off to GDL for Peter to work his magic....