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#1
08-23-2010, 08:10 PM
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Slow Shutdown cures Itself!
My 240 has always taken about 3 to 5 seconds to shutdown. There are no vacuum leaks in the circuit and the servo checked out as well. Just one of those nagging things. Actually it really bugged me since I couldn't remedy it
 . On Saturday it was well over 100 here in LA. I got to my destination and turned the key expecting to fiddle around with something while waiting for it to shutdown. It shut right off! Just like our other cars. Instantly. I thought it must be a fluke of some sort but ever since then the car shuts right off on command. It must have been the heat. What else could it have been? I'm afraid of what's going to happen when it gets cold around here. 
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker 
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#2
08-23-2010, 09:00 PM
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I had a clogged port on the main vacuum line that was causing a slow shut down. It started out 3 seconds..then 5 seconds..then one day 10 seconds. I cleaned the main line out with a little compressed air and drilled out both ports with a 1/32" drill bit. Now it shuts down instantly.
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#3
08-23-2010, 10:08 PM
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I just replaced the second shut-down valve on our fleet, I'd be checking those for failure out there! They'll leak oil into the vacuum lines. Neither of ours did, because they are all equipped with a filter in-line from the valve, so you can see and stop the leakage.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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#4
08-23-2010, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
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___________________________________________ '86 300 SDL '83 300D Astral Silver/Blue 354k miles.. 326k miles.. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ine=1310252049
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#5
08-23-2010, 10:19 PM
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I find that vac leaks seem to lessen or disappear in the heat, and get more severe in the cold. So I'm guessing you have several small leaks that have sealed up with the heat, and will return with the colder weather. When the car was shutting down slowly, did you try blocking all the vac systems other than the shut down system to see if the shuts off immediately?
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon  '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#6
08-23-2010, 10:59 PM
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There were no leaks in the system. Both the locking circuit and the shut off circuit were checked and ran independently of each other to no avail. No leaks were detected with a gauge or vacuum pump (snap on). That's what was so frustrating. Everything checked out and it was still slow to shut down. One thing's for sure now. I'm not touching anything!
 Oh, cold for us is 50 F so it will never get THAT cold I guess.
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker
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#7
08-23-2010, 11:01 PM
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How many pumps of the hand vac pump does it take to shut down the car? Maybe you have a week shut-off valve.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#8
08-23-2010, 11:08 PM
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I can't remember and I dare not touch it anymore. No more than 5 if I recall. If it works, don't fix it!
I had replaced all the components in the shut off circuit and there were no changes until it got over 100F. I guess I'll give myself till next summer to install AC. It only gets used maybe 3 months out of the year (AC that is) so there is no hurry.
__________________
'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker
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#9
08-24-2010, 12:29 AM
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It should only take 1-2 or maybe 3 pumps to shut down.
__________________
Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#10
08-24-2010, 08:30 PM
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Engine No Shut Down cure.
My 1984 300D Turbo decided, that since we fixed the no-start problem related to a sticky 24yr old starter solenoid, it was time to have a no-stop problem!
Ironic but true. The problem was vacuum leaks in the door lock circuit. Unfortunately the links in this forum that have vacuum diagrams did not work for me. "not available". No problem. its easy enough to trace. First check it to check for vacuum pump operation. I put a vacuum gage on the first T in the line nearest the vacuum pump. At idle the vacuum was approx 18 bouncing inches of mercury. High idle was approx 20" Hg. Good. I pulled the brown with blue stripe vacuum line from the ignition switch valve and sucked on it and the engine shut off. This line goes to the back side of the injector pump. Sucking with your mouth will yield approx 7 " Hg. Some people suck more than others so this is just a range .The other line is just brown and had only approx 3 " Hg. Not good enough. The one into three rubber fitting supplies main vacuum to the door lock system via a fat one into two fitting. I disconnected this and plugged the line. This solved the problem and since our door locks need to be refurbed, this did not present a problem. The car shuts off almost instantly. I hope this helps.
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#11
08-25-2010, 12:14 AM
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With a good valve a brief suck on the line with your face will shut it down instantly. A weak valve will fill your mouth with oil!
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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