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  #46  
Old 09-17-2012, 09:10 PM
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Thanks to treiberg for the info in this thread! I got a cheap $15 remote system from eBay (auction here) and will wire it up according to his directions. I've attached an enhanced version of his diagram which is easier to read after printing.

I didn't want to make the +12 and ground connections outside the module, so I took it apart and made internal jumpers. Then I removed the pigtails from the connector. I also un-soldered the pigtail you cut to enable pneumatic mode. I also the included 20 amp fuse with a 10 amp one... the turn signals should draw about 8 amps so that gives the best safety factor.





I like the look of the remotes included with this system.The buttons give a nice click when pressed. Don't know what I'll do with the trunk button.



Here's a video I made on the bench. The orange bulb is hooked up to one of the turn signal outputs. The test light shows green when it's grounded and red when it's positive. When the system isn't "active" the Yellow and White / Black wires are connected so the key input works normally.

W126 aftermarket keyless entry - YouTube

Thanks,

-Jason

Attached Thumbnails
DIY Keyless Entry Door Lock - W126 and W124-w126-remote-wiring.jpg  
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Last edited by compu_85; 09-18-2012 at 12:44 AM.
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  #47  
Old 09-18-2012, 08:16 PM
compu_85's Avatar
Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: La Conner, WA
Posts: 5,234
Finished installing this in the car tonight... it was a snap. One minor goof... I had the + and ground reversed in the remote module so the lock / unlock buttons were reversed that was easy to fix though.

One interesting thing I noticed... the remotes arm and disarm the factory alarm. Not sure how that works... I'd think to the alarm module the remote looks just like a lock plunger being pulled up, which would happen when a door is forced. *shrug* I'm happy I ran the antenna up inside the panel behind the license plate, and the range seems to be OK.

-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Last edited by compu_85; 09-19-2012 at 10:04 AM.
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  #48  
Old 10-14-2012, 08:33 PM
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I ordered the same unit as treiberg a while back and just now had a chance to install it on the 85 SD.
It works fine as far as locking and unlocking however, it locked me out while fueling up.
It seems to have an auto lock mode taking place after approx 15 seconds.
The included instructions are worthless.

Any idea how to disable the automatic lock function?
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  #49  
Old 10-15-2012, 08:21 PM
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Also, I have to press the lock button first in order for the unlock to work.

There's some funky logic going on in this china made box.
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  #50  
Old 11-05-2012, 10:01 PM
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Location: North central Texas
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I sorted out the issue. Found a solder 'spash' (short) inside the china box. Sytem works perfect now.
I had ordered another one for the '84 SD but unfortunately it has the three wire pump.
Looks like I'll have to open up the drivers door and install an actuator.
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  #51  
Old 11-30-2012, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
One interesting thing I noticed... the remotes arm and disarm the factory alarm. Not sure how that works... I'd think to the alarm module the remote looks just like a lock plunger being pulled up, which would happen when a door is forced.
The factory alarm uses the door cylinder switches to arm and disarm the alarm module. The same +12/ground signal from the lock cylinders that drives the pump also goes to the alarm box and activates or deactivates the alarm. The alarm also looks at the dome light switches on the doors and trunk (or hatch for the wagon). If the alarm module sees a dome switch close while the alarm is armed it will sound. In addition the hood switch, the radio removal lead, and the tilt sensor are monitored.

The green wire goes from the door switch to the pump then to the alarm. That is why if you cut the wrong green wire at the pump the keyless will not work. You have to be between the door switch and the pump, so that both the pump and alarm are controlled by the relays in the alarm module.

The schematic above shows how the relays work. When the keyless controller is idle, the normally closed contacts are made to the commons, and the signal from the door switch is passed through to the pump and alarm module. When either the lock or unlock command is issued, the appropriate relay is energized, which interrupts the signal from the door switch and applies either +12 or ground as needed to lock or unlock.

What all this means is that the keyless controller acts like another door or trunk switch to the alarm module, so the factory alarm functions normally. Pulling up the plungers on the doors does not send the electrical signal to the alarm and pump so the alarm stays armed, and when the alarm module sees the door or trunk dome light switch contact, the alarm sounds.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
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2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #52  
Old 12-18-2012, 12:02 AM
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Posts: 3
Hi,
I am a newbie and I found this topic when I'm trying to install Keyless entry system LD-009-13P to my 1997 honda accord Exi. I saw the diagram is very similar. But I still don't know how to wire. Please help me.

Here are the wiring diagrams:
1. My car power door wiring diagram

2. The original power door control unit


3. Keyless Entry System LD-009-13P diagram:



I am confusing about which trigger my honda accord uses. I think it's Negative.

But I don't know exactly which are Lock signal, Unlock signal, ... of the Accord wiring diagram.
Please help me. A lot of thanks!
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  #53  
Old 12-18-2012, 09:29 AM
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You want to emulate the factory door lock/unlock switches that are in each door. (As shown on the left side of the Honda ETM.) When you or your passenger pushes the door mounted lock/unlock switch (the rocker switch, not the mechanical locking device), you are applying ground to the orange wire to unlock or the black/white wire to lock.
This is different than the way Mercedes does it, they have a single wire that either gets +12 (lock) or ground (unlock).

Here is how to hook it up for your Honda according to the ETM drawing you provided.

China module wire color-------> Car lock controller module wire color
red (+12V receiver power)-----> white (fused 12 V supply)
black (receiver logic ground)--> black (car ground)
white (lock relay COM)--------> black (car ground)
wh/blk (unlock rly COM)-------> black (car ground)
yellow (lock relay NO)---------> blk/wht (lock command input)
yel/blk (unlock rly NO)---------> orange (unlock command input)

All other wires off the China module should be separately insulated and stored. Or you can do like Compu85 and remove them from the connector totally.

If you can't get enough room for all the wire splices at the module, then just tap the blk/wht and orange wires at the module.

You can get power from the fuse block. Honda fuse blocks have several 1/4" quick disconnect terminals available. One or more of these will be hot all the time, which is what you want for the receiver power. Keep the inline fuse that should be in the red wire from the China box. However I would change it from a 15 or 20 down to something like a 3 or 5. You are not providing any power out of the other outputs on the box, so lowering the fuse size will greatly increase safety.

The ground wires can go to a convenient bolt on the chassis. Use an appropriate sized ring terminal.

Also do not clip the "pneumatic" jumper for a Honda. It only needs the short pulse to work properly.

If you want some more help with hooking up the trunk pop (assuming the trunk pop on a 97 is electric, I had several Hondas from the 80s and 90s, and they were all mechanical), or direction light flash then feel free to pm.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #54  
Old 12-18-2012, 04:05 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3
Thank jay_bob so much!

1. Looking at Car module, I just see 6 wires: WHT, BLK, PNK, BLK/RED, YEL/RED, WHT/RED.
And I can not lock by Passenger door Key, just Driver Door key. So I think my car only uses the right side of Honda ETM.
Sorry for forgetting this detail. Could you please think it again?
And, I am curious that why don't you need to connect YEL/RED and WHT/RED of Car unit?
2. Could you please also show me how to check my trunk is electric or not. And how can I connect to direction lights?

Thanks again,
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  #55  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:22 AM
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I thought the ETM you posted was for your car. Sorry I will have a hard time figuring out your car if I don't have an accurate drawing to work from. I caution you not to follow what I said above if your wire colors are different, I would hate to see you smoke something in your car.

As for the trunk open, do you pull up a lever on the floor next to your seat? If so that is a cable release and it won't work remotely.

I know there are similar forums for Hondas, might be better to post there as the folks on that board are more familiar with your car. I'm an engineer who understands vehicle electrical and happened to have owned a bunch of Hondas so I chimed in.

Good luck with the project and if you come across an accurate diagram for your car then send me a private message via the forum and I will be happy to take a look at it offline. I'm trying to keep this thread on track for Mercedes only.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #56  
Old 12-19-2012, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
I thought the ETM you posted was for your car. Sorry I will have a hard time figuring out your car if I don't have an accurate drawing to work from. I caution you not to follow what I said above if your wire colors are different, I would hate to see you smoke something in your car.

As for the trunk open, do you pull up a lever on the floor next to your seat? If so that is a cable release and it won't work remotely.

I know there are similar forums for Hondas, might be better to post there as the folks on that board are more familiar with your car. I'm an engineer who understands vehicle electrical and happened to have owned a bunch of Hondas so I chimed in.

Good luck with the project and if you come across an accurate diagram for your car then send me a private message via the forum and I will be happy to take a look at it offline. I'm trying to keep this thread on track for Mercedes only.
Yeap. Sorry for making off topic. I'm really appreciated your help. I will PM you when I got the right diagram. Thanks a lot, again!
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  #57  
Old 12-19-2012, 06:56 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3,537
Would this help?

1997 Honda Accord Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #58  
Old 12-28-2012, 05:49 PM
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Location: Columbia, SC
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I got mine working this afternoon in the 300TD.

For those of you with TDs (or TEs), the vacuum pump is under the carpet under the right rear seat. Remove the right rear seat lower cushion, the door sill and the two trim pieces around the seat posts. Carefully pull back the carpet and you will find the pump in the recess in a foam box.

Note that the diagram above is backwards. The system requires a ground to lock and a +12 to unlock.

I just got the lock/unlock to work for now, I will come back and add the light flash later.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #59  
Old 01-01-2013, 10:43 AM
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Try our best to do it better

Here is how I hooked my keyless controller up:

First for clarity let's number the pins so it's easier to talk about.
Pin 1 - Orn - Lock NC
Pin 2 - Wht - Lock COM
Pin 3 - Yel - Lock NO
Pin 4 - Orn/Blk - Unlock NC
Pin 5 - Wht/Blk - Unlock COM
Pin 6 - Yel/Blk - Unlock NO
Pin 7 - Blk - DC Negative
Pin 8 - Red/Blk - Trunk Open +
Pin 9 - Red - DC Positive
Pin 10 - Pnk - Trunk Open -
Pin 11 - Brn - Marker Lts +
Pin 12 - Brn - Marker Lts +
Pin 13 - Grn - Window Rollup -

- I removed all the extra wires from the harness that I was not using. I saved them for later in case I decided to use that particular feature. You can remove the wires by pressing a pointy object in the rectangular slot and pulling the wire out. The wires can be put back later by lining up the tab with the slot and sliding them back in until they click.
I pulled out all the connector wires except for pin 2 (wht), Pin 4 (orn/blk), Pin 7 (blk) and Pin 9 (Red).

- I took apart the relay box and inspected the board for solder splashes after the experience of others. I found none.

- I hooked the board up to a bench supply and thoroughly tested it before proceeding further.

- Following Compu85's method, I unsoldered the pneumatic jumper. I also soldered jumpers to the board between the following pins:
1 to 5, 3 to 7, and 6 to 9.
Click image for larger version

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In this picture, pin 1 is at the top and pin 13 is at the bottom.

- I changed the fuse from a 15 A to a 5 A.

- Now test the harness and module before installing in the car. Plug the harness into the module.
Apply 12 Vdc to pin 9 (+) and pin 7 (-)
Verify you have continuity between pins 2 and 4 with no buttons pressed
Change your meter to dc voltage, put the black lead on pin 9 and the red lead on pin 2. Press the lock button, you should get a pulse of -12 V since we send pin 2 to ground for locking.
Put the black lead of your meter on pin 7 and the red lead on pin 2. Press the unlock button, you should get a pulse of +12 V since we send pin 2 to +12 for unlocking.

- Now go out to the car and find your pump (in the trunk for sedans, under the right rear seat for wagons).

- Before going further remove fuse "C".

- Locate the control connector going to the pump. It is round and has 3 wires on it, blue, green, and yellow. Depending on how your car is wired, you may have one or two wires per pin. If you have one wire, it is obvious but if there are two wires, you will have to guess which one you have to tap. It does not matter which color you choose, all 3 colors do the same thing as far as the pump is concerned. Blue comes from the drivers door, green from the passenger door, and yellow from the trunk/hatch.

- For module power I tried using the blue tap connectors but had a hard time making them work. (Cheap Chinese junk...) So I opened the head of the power connector, unsoldered the car wires from the pins, joined the module wires to the car wires, and resoldered the pins. If you clean out all the solder from the pin you will see there is plenty of room to insert two wires. The brown wire from the car goes with the black wire from the module and goes to connector pin 1. The red wire from the car goes with the red wire from the module and goes to connector pin 3. (If you have ortho seats there will be a wire on pin 2, leave that intact.)

- For the control signal I interrupted the blue wire at the pump. My car only had one set of wires at the pump. (I don't know how this affects the alarm, because my alarm was already disabled by PO.) The wire coming from pin 2 on the module (wht) goes toward the pump and the wire coming from pin 4 on the module (orn/blk) goes toward the vehicle harness.

- Before plugging the module into the harness do a little testing. Put Fuse C back in. Get your meter, set on dc volts, put the red lead on pin 9 (red) and the black lead on pin 7 (black). You should have +12 V. Now jumper pins 2 and 4 with a piece of fine wire (one of the inner wires from a piece of phone wire works great). Be sure the jumper does not touch the car. Now have a helper lock and unlock the car from whichever lock circuit you intercepted - if you used blue that will be the drivers door. Be sure the car locks and unlocks properly. Now remove the jumper from pins 2 and 4 and jump pins 2 and 7. The car should lock. Remove the jumper from 2 and 7 and jump pins 2 and 9. The car should unlock.

- Plug the module into the harness, and using the remote try to lock and unlock the car. It should work as expected. Note that you have to wait a few seconds for the pump to complete its cycle before switching modes.

- Put the pump foam housing back together and find a place to secure the module. Be sure the antenna is extended. On the wagon I sent the antenna wire out of the grommet, along with the vehicle harness toward the front of the car, so that it is under the carpet at the passenger foot space, instead of under the seat. I was able to operate from about 25 feet away with all the doors closed.

Here is how this works:

When the system is at rest the path is as follows:
from the door lock switch -> orn/blk wire (pin 4) -> Unlock NC (4) -> Unlock COM (5) -> Jumper from 5 to 1 -> Lock NC (1) -> Lock COM (2) -> wht wire (pin 2) -> Pump control input. This allows ground (lock) or +12 (unlock) to pass from door switch into the pump same as it did before.

Locking the doors:
Lock relay energizes which interrupts the path from the door switch and instead goes: ground (7) -> jumper from 7 to 3 -> Lock NO (3) -> Lock COM (2) -> wht wire (pin 2) -> Pump control input. This applies ground to the pump input to lock the doors.

Unlocking the doors:
Unlock relay energizes which interrupts the path from the door switch and instead goes: +12V (9) -> jumper from 9 to 6 -> Unlock NO (6) -> Unlock COM (5) -> Jumper from 5 to 1 -> Lock NC (1) -> Lock COM (2) -> wht wire (pin 2) -> Pump control input. This applies +12V to the pump input to unlock the doors.

I have a couple of ideas for the other outputs:
- Use the parking light flasher output to sound the "alarm" horn.
- Use the parking light flasher output to sound a piezo buzzer (like a Toyota).
- Use the parking light flasher output to blink the parking lights. The module has 2 relays but their COM terminals are hard wired to pin 9 internally. That would use Fuse C to operate the lights. I don't like mixing up circuits like that so if I go that route I will probably use the brown wire to drive two relays (or a DPDT) and switch the two marker light circuits of the car independently.

I need to see if I can get my alarm working and see how my hookup method influences the alarm operation.

I will post back here when I know more...in the meantime feel free to post or pm me with questions.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #60  
Old 02-08-2013, 07:11 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Hey what's up guys, first time posting here as I found this thread on Google, and I wanted to install keyless entry on my w126. Now I have an issue that I'm hoping one of you guys can help me out with!

I followed the directions by treiberg and compu_85. I have the same exact keyless main unit that compu_85 has - purchased for $15 on ebay. Initially, I had the lock and unlock backwards, so jay_bob's wiring turned out to be how I rewired it exactly.

Now, on to the problem I'm having. After initially plugging in the harness to the main unit, the unit works - pressing the unlock/lock works fine from the remote. After firing up the engine and driving the car for a few minutes to somewhere, pressing the lock/unlock button no longer works. I do, however, still hear the relays clicking from the trunk that comes from the main unit. The main unit is pulling 12 volts from the pump, which is the red and brown wires connected to the harness red and black (power and ground).

Additionally, what I also did was disconnect the power to the pump, wait a bit, and reconnect it. All of a sudden, pressing the unlock/lock buttons work again. I also notice the pump turns on immediately after I plugged it in. But the same issue arises that after driving the car somewhere for a bit, the unlock/lock doesn't work. It seems like the pump may seem to not respond to the module, and I have to unlock using the regular key.

Any hints/clues/help/suggestions? Any help is always appreciated. Thanks guys!

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