Greetings,

I just did the install in my '90 300D. At first I tried doing it through the trunk connections but found it easier to pull the back seat. A very easy job and well worth the $25. Thanks for the post.

I've been trying to hook up this same ebay/china unit with no success. I've used the modified schematic and checked and rechecked. There must be some supid mistake i'm making. the unit clicks on and off ok but will not start the pump. help please- Kelly

should mention the car is a 86 300e sedan thanks - Kelly

I installed this Ebay unit today. It is not working. The connection on the diagram that does not look right to me is the Lock mode, Orange, Normally Closed connected to the Unlock, White/Black, Common. I have these two wires tied together. When I push the lock button on the fob, the pump blows air. When I hit the unlock button, the pump does not run at all?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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1987 300D 146K Original #14 Head
One eye on the road, the other on the temp. gauge

Gone But Not Forgotten
1983 380 SEL Long gone
1983 300SD Wish I hadn't traded it in on a 90' Corvette
1989 300SE My all time favorite
1995 E420 Went like a bullet

I just figured it out. I did not remove the little black "jumper" on the control module. The doors and trunk are now locking and unlocking. However, the trunk only button will not unlock the trunk. Do I need a wire from the module connected to the cars Yellow trunk wire?

__________________
1987 300D 146K Original #14 Head
One eye on the road, the other on the temp. gauge

Gone But Not Forgotten
1983 380 SEL Long gone
1983 300SD Wish I hadn't traded it in on a 90' Corvette
1989 300SE My all time favorite
1995 E420 Went like a bullet

It would not be possible to open the trunk alone in your car with the FOB. The locks are all on the same electrical and vacuum circuit.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Thank you ah-kay.

__________________
1987 300D 146K Original #14 Head
One eye on the road, the other on the temp. gauge

Gone But Not Forgotten
1983 380 SEL Long gone
1983 300SD Wish I hadn't traded it in on a 90' Corvette
1989 300SE My all time favorite
1995 E420 Went like a bullet

Just installed one of these cheap and cheerful setups. Works great.

__________________
190E's:
2.5-16v 1990 90,000m Astral Silver
2.0E 8v 1986 107,000m Black 2nd owner
http://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall.jpghttp://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall2.jpg

Bump again. Very grateful to all that've added to this thread. I'm using the diagram that's been put up, but I still have no functionality. I have power, changed it to the 3.5 second pulse, and have tried to follow the wiring to a Tee.

I've got my unlock com and my lock NC together and off to the side. Lock com to the pump and unlock NC going back the car. But, both of my NO on this model are together? They're both connected to one line with an in-line fuse. I connected this to 12v constant and still nothing? Do I need to connect this to ground?

I'm dealing with an 8/88 300te, no alarm. All locks did/do function. There are only three wires in my round plug, one of each color. Looking at the EWD in the FSM this seems normal. I used the yellow line, and with it cut all locks are still working (very odd to me). It also seems like I'm getting battery voltage from both the pump and car side of the cut wire.

Here's the EWD for what I'm working with. I'd love any help, starting to get pretty dejected about all of this. 7 hours on my knees today. Page 15 FYI
http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/viper/N412V_01-05.pdf

This mod is shown to work on the W124, how about the W201?

Here's the unit under the rear seat in an '85 W201 190D.

Is this the same unit as in the W124? If so, which of these wires are spliced since there are multiple yellow, brown, and red wires?

Attached Thumbnails

 

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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need.

Walken, yes that looks like the pump in my early 124. That bottom plug should have ground, hot, ignition. The round plug should be your door lock signals. I found the best diagrams to check all of this out were in the electrical troubleshoot manual.


Update: The more I learn about this chasis, the more I'm convinced every car is wired differently haha. That fused violet wire I had from both relays, connected it to battery and got unlock. Connect it to ground and got lock (may have that backwards). So, split the wire before the fuse, connect the right wires to ground/unground and I now have keyless!

In my te there is the standard plug for the tail light on the right side. But, I only had 5 plugs, one empty hole. Turned my parking lights on and checked for the plug that had power when the rear parking light was on. Wired this and now I have all four parking lights blinking when I lock/unlock! It would be brighter if I had the turn signal filaments lighting, but that may be where the need to wire both sides comes in.

Plan on using the door switch from the passenger rear for dome light, and the alarm under the passenger feet for alarm/horn signal. I'll put up some pictures when I get everything done if anyone needs it.

On my pump there are 3 wires into a round plug (yellow, green, and blue) and 2 wires into a retangular plug (red and brown). There is also a smaller plug not on the pump with three smaller guage wires (red, yellow, and brown) next to the pump.

The electrical trouble shooting manual for my model shows the follow path of the wires; red-12 vlts, blue-right front door, brown-to trunk (is this the ground?), yellow-to trunk, green-to left front door.

Is "left" the driver's side or passenger's side?

I ordered the $15 one off of ebay. Will I be able to use the remote to open only the trunk as that would be nice?

According to the schematic posted earlier in this thread, they cut the green wire in two and wired white and orange/blk. Why was the passenger door wire selected instead of the driver's side door? Would it make any difference?

Why are the orange and wht/blk wires on the module wired together?

Do I also need to extend a wire from the module (pink) to one of the tail lights in the trunk in order to have the blinkers flash when locking or unlocking?

__________________
You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need.

You're on the right path with this, yes. The wires twisted together are something to do with relays, which I don't understand haha. Basically the system has on board relays to send a lock or unlock pulse to a normal (jap import) car. Mercedes is done differently, so you need negative or positive pulse on the same wire. Yes, left should be the driver's side. That schematic has connector numbers like S49 and S48 right? They are labeled in the central locking, section 80, as to what door they are. Makes no difference which door you used. I used yellow trunk because it had the most slack. Yes, you do need to run a wire to the rear tail lights.

Not sure why that other connector isn't plugged up on a 201, but as long as you have hot, ground, ignition you'll be good. Yes, the rear door does have brown, yellow, and white/red wire to it. But I'm terrible with schematics and a meter, so I wasn't able to tell what they do.

No idea on trunk. Unit needs to have a programmable auxiliary or second function. You could set it to power the auto open/close, but that would still trigger the other locks.

Dave I feel for you sorry you are getting difficulty. This unit you have is different to the ones being discussed on this thread. I looked at the manual, didn't seem familiar but perhaps the manual from these units being discussed would help you wire up yours, since yours seems at least similar. (6 'control' wires for input/output?)


The 3 wires are for the 2 front doors and the boot, I believe. I tested one of these. The line I tested showed 12v when in the locked position and 0v when unlocked (might have been the other way around). This fact could be useful for installing, if you can't get it to work in the 'official' way. Just test the outputs from your keyless locking box, Find one which varies from 0v to 12v when you press the unlock/lock buttons. Then Wire this to one of the 3 coloured wires going into the car's pump. And Voila (in theory). Worth a go...

I'll try to check the thread again but bit busy at the mo..
I wired into a 190E. 1990 facelift model. Had some pump as in the recently posted photo.

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190E's:
2.5-16v 1990 90,000m Astral Silver
2.0E 8v 1986 107,000m Black 2nd owner
http://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall.jpghttp://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall2.jpg

Appreciate it, but all good now. I ran out this morning late for a funeral. The doors were unlocked, when I opened my door the alarm went off. Perfect timing right? Hah. But during the service I was thinking, this means my car thinks the doors are locked. I had the two NO wires that are fused connected to 12v. I had locked the doors with the key and, voila!, the unlock of the remote worked. Connect that cable to ground and boom, lock. So the two internal relays can be rigged to work with our systems like the diagram posted, but the NO have to have opposite polarities.

Got light flash working. Now on to alarm signal from remote and horn signal with lock/unlock. Going through the schematics now, but I'm sans garage, so no testing car alarm at night haha. I'm thinking I'll use pin #1 for the horn signal.