your sound file worked for me, it just sounds like the injectors are still settling in, my car sounded that way for awhile after the new ones were in.

I found that having the plug on the end of the injection return pop off during a freeway trip and soak the hood insulation is a quick way to purge air from the injection system, ... but I don't recommend it (garage still smells like diesel, and it was a new hood pad).

87 300D - After owning an 83 SD and most recently a Jetta TDI this motor just sounds angry to me! I too, just replaced the injectors and tweaked the Alta. It is really loud when cold and it smells like a Greyhound bus terminal! No smoke though. I only have 134K miles and hope it won't take 3,500 miles for mine to return to normal. Whatever that is.

Unless in your records the chain has been changed 347 k miles sounds quite excessive. You better check the chain stretch, Cam and pump timing at least before anything else. When was the pump timing last checked in your records?

That chain might be horribly elongated and on the verge of throwing in the towel. Do not reset the injection pump timing until a reasonable evaluation of the chain situation indicates it is reasonable to do. I do not think this is going to go well.

One might even suspect you have been lucky up till today. Do not neglect or pass off checking that timing chain. It could be the end of the engine if you do. Thinking about things in general you may have a record stretched chain in use. Or close to it.

Forget about getting a replacement part worse than what you may have. You may not even be able to find a used one in such poor condition other than broken...

Even the poorest new sample of chain in the market might be leaps and bounds better. There of course is a preffered brand to get if required.

Now if we can add any odometer error to the general equation I would look and evaluate the current chain condition before taking the car anywhere other than the local convienience store. Some of the noises might just be directly related to it. There could easily be a time line on this. If the chain breaks or somehow skips just wave goodbye to the car as they tow it away. It will more than likely be impractacle to fix the engine at those miles.

Ok, you've got my attention... anyone know of a reputable and reasonable shop with a solid 300d mechanic in Northern California (San Jose to Palo Alto area)? Please shoot me a pm if so... I recently moved and don't have a shop set up yet. There are no records of any injector work prior to this and I'm absolutely certain that the chain is original - the car has been in the family from about 50k, I've had it for the last 150k or so.

With 340k you need a chain.

I asked my independent mechanic to do the chain, and I said I've got the part. He was all "can't warranty the job unless we supply..." but I cut the conversation short by showing him the chain in its MB box with hologram logo intact. "OK, we can do that".

Don't do the chain yourself get the shop to do it. If they bung it up and wreck your valves... it's obvious they have to fix the damage. Plus, they won't do that. They know the risks and know how to do the job right. And have the tool to join the link, etc.

I had the original chain and one day just decided to check for stretch... and staring back at me on the cam sprocket was the chain with a missing a segment. Good thing these are doubles! Within a month that thing would have let go.

Moral of the story: change an old chain, even if you think it doesn't need it.

Replace the timing chain and what else...
 

I've found an indie that appears to be pretty solid and was quoted 3.5 hrs (per book) to change the timing chain. Attached is a pic of the parts/#s that I bought when I planned on DIYing this: Iwis chain, Swag guides/rails, Meyle tensioner.

Any comments on the brands? My digging on the forum indicated that Iwis chains were the only good option and Swag rails were good - no word on Meyle tensioners that I could find.

Second - would all three of the guides and the tensioner typically be replaced? I expect that the answer is "Yes" for me since they're at 340k miles... If so, would you expect that the 3.5 hrs would include taking the timing cover off, etc. to get in there and replace everything or is that just threading the new chain in from the top (and replacing the guides, etc. will add significant time & $s to the quote?

Just trying to get one step ahead of my repair bill.

Thanks

Oh, and what else should be done at the same time (i.e., with the valve cover off, IP timing with the new chain, etc.) Thanks in advance.

An experienced tech might be able to R&R the front cover in 3.5 hours but I doubt that's all they'd charge you for it. If you're going as far as pulling the front cover, replace the oil pump chain, guide and tension spring as well, and of course the front crank seal.

What I mean is, 3.5 hours sounds like simply rolling in a new chain and replacing the upper guide and tensioner.

Sixto
87 300D