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Dare I try to replace delivery valve seals... '99 E300
Well, with the Benz sitting for nearly a year, busy and a fuel leak - I went to work on the remaining fuel line to replace and the viton o-rings. Well got that done and the O-ring on the back of the shut-off valve. Tightened everything up, came back a few hours later and it is still taking a bath.
From the top of the IP, so I presume that the delivery valve seals are shot. How big of a deal is it? Sticky on the process below. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=211801&highlight=e300+delivery+valve Guess I was just hoping I could skip pulling the IM, but I don't see that happening now. Thoughts or words of encouragement for me to screw up the courage for this? Others than it will be way cheaper than having the dealer do it.
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raMBow 1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck 2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5 (2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work 1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg |
#2
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Removing the intake manifold is nearly trivial on your car.
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#3
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Like most things I just need to clean up the shop, get comfy and take my time digging in. Once I do things the next time is so much easier. Am curious as to the gunk factor for the EGR and IM.
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raMBow 1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck 2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5 (2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work 1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg |
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You will get to know your car that much better.
And, it will be way cheaper than having the dealer do it! I'm in the middle of mine right now, also replacing the seals and gasket on the lift pump while I'm at it. Get the torque specs on your IM bolts - do not overtighten them. Have fun.
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#5
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Is the only way to loosen the IM from the EGR, is to go from underneath?
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raMBow 1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck 2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5 (2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work 1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg |
#6
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Invest in a metric torque wrench guage for the re-install of the IM. Use a total progressive, round-robin approach when tightening the IM, and remember, the IM and bay is forged alloy/aluminum. Do not strip threads! And, be certain to buy a new IM gasket for the re-install.
Clean the heck out of the IM and associated orifice from the intercooler while it's off the car. While it's off, I'd R&R all glow plugs, unless you want to R&R the IM again, when GP(s) fail. However, that said, the pricing of replacement GPs are so high, I don't blame you for not doing them at the price of a set. |
#7
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Quote:
You can take out the T30 bolt on the EGR from above. I would not say it was easy, but I got it. Have only driven the car - maybe 5 times in the past 11 months and probably have not put fuel in for a year I'll have to order up the items for the delivery valves... and the tool. Why do you taunt me so on the Glow Plugs?!?!? Maybe I'll start another thread there. They are about 6 years old, but less than 35,000 miles.
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raMBow 1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck 2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5 (2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work 1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg |
#8
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Quote:
You should be good to go and fughet about the GPs for this task. There is a terrific thread going already for the '98-'99 GP R&R on PeachParts. I'd fill the fuel tank, and thow in a quart of Power Service if that were all I was driving my '99. |
#9
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I don't think anyone mentioned this yet but you will need the special splined socket to remove the delivery valves...if you want to borrow one PM me - I still have one here and would be happy to loan it out to anyone who can put it to use.
Cleanliness is the key to success here. Clean the top of the IP off before you crack open the first DV. Then, be sure to follow the proper torque procedure for replacing them. One trick I did was used a small dab of white lithium grease to hold the springs in position while I replaced the DV caps. Just take your time, and don't rush anything. It's not rocket science and very doable. If you bring it to a dealer good luck getting out for less than a grand if they will even do it at all. Considering the parts are like $20 that's good enough incentive to DIY it.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#10
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Quote:
Mine is pretty clean on top of the IP, maybe the leak helped that. Hopefully next weekend I will have time and parts.
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raMBow 1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck 2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5 (2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work 1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg |
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