OM617 head gasket failure - pictures - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

whunter · #16 10-04-2010, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConnClark

Make sure you grab the cam, cam towers, etc from your old head and put them on the w116 head. The newer heads differed with these parts to allow for more lift of the valves allowing the engine to breath better.

Thankfully the original cam and towers from the OM617.952 are good.

I don't need to worry, as I have three spare OM617.952 cam and tower assemblies.

benhogan · #17 10-04-2010, 03:16 PM

What is the moral of the story here? keep your eye on the fluid levels?

whunter · #18 10-04-2010, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benhogan

What is the moral of the story here? keep your eye on the fluid levels?

If you suspect a bad head gasket, STOP DRIVING THE CAR...

The head gasket failed first on cylinder three, then the head cracked from continued driving.

The head gasket failed further on cylinder two and four, and the head cracked on those cylinders from continued driving.

The miracle is that the pistons, cylinders, and bearings where not damaged.

panZZer · #19 10-04-2010, 04:38 PM

With all this you just bolted the good heads on and ran em sucessfully?

rrgrassi · #20 10-04-2010, 05:27 PM

Roy said one engine was totally damaged, so one was repairable the other must be replaced.

pwjeep · #21 10-04-2010, 09:50 PM

As Roy's "partner in crime", I can state that the car the beautiful 116 head is going into isn't as pretty as the head.

The #2 head which is all pock-marked was out of a "dead" donor engine (= unusable). It looked like the exhaust valves wouldn't have had a sealing surface.

The head #1 that was shown in the first post by Roy was the one that came out of the car. No, it was not welded. We just used a green paint stick to show where the cracks were for photographic purposes. Both # 1 and # 2 head were really bad. Junk. Both of the bad heads were very filthy and rusty too.

My clothes now also sport new black beauty marks from the oil.

The engine of the good head looked really good. We probably should have just pulled the entire engine... but you don't know what you're getting from a pic-n-pull. This time it was "golden".

babymog · #22 10-04-2010, 10:35 PM

Oh those "bullet-proof" 617s, apparently they aren't water-proof.

Goes to show that noting is "idiot-proof", merely idiot-resistant.

mplafleur · #23 10-06-2010, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwjeep

The #2 head which is all pock-marked was out of a "dead" donor engine (= unusable). It looked like the exhaust valves wouldn't have had a sealing surface.

Donor engines are a roll of the dice.

cirrusman · #24 10-06-2010, 09:38 AM

Wow... you live, you learn. Good to learn from other than own experience...

whunter · #25 11-05-2010, 04:02 PM

People sometimes expect miracles.

JB3 · #26 11-05-2010, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Six mile round trip, normal sounds, pulled in the driveway, sudden overwhelming burning oil odor.
Shutoff car, popped the hood, engine compartment soaked with oil.
Tried to re-start for a trip to the repair shop = click but no crank.
Jumped the battery from a running 300SD, three revolutions then total stop, wait five minutes and repeat.
Engine oil was two quarts low when it got to the shop.
Installed new battery, three revolutions then total stop, wait five minutes and repeat.
Starter replaced, three revolutions then total stop, wait five minutes and repeat.
I put it on the hoist preparing to drop the lower oil pan for inspection.
Pulled the oil drain plug roughly two gallons of coolant and six quarts of oil came out.

The issue was rather obvious at that point.

Further inspection showed most crankcase related seals where blown out by hydraulic pressure.

This is really interesting, was there any indication on the gauges of anything wrong on the 6 mile drive? Was it overheating or anything?

I just replaced a bad temp sender on mine which was showing that the engine was running cool at 50c, but I swapped it with a spare which shows the engine running at 100c! I have ordered a new one since now I trust neither senders, and have replaced the thermostat, am replacing the water pump and hoses, and inspecting the radiator to see if its partially plugged or something. I already did a coolant flush as well, not sure if its an actual problem or a incorrect gauge causing my hair to turn white!

I find this series of events really ominous though, like a bad sender can give you the impression that your car is running properly.

whunter · #27 11-05-2010, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dropnosky

This is really interesting, was there any indication on the gauges of anything wrong on the 6 mile drive? Was it overheating or anything?

I just replaced a bad temp sender on mine which was showing that the engine was running cool at 50c, but I swapped it with a spare which shows the engine running at 100c! I have ordered a new one since now I trust neither senders, and have replaced the thermostat, am replacing the water pump and hoses, and inspecting the radiator to see if its partially plugged or something. I already did a coolant flush as well, not sure if its an actual problem or a incorrect gauge causing my hair to turn white!

I find this series of events really ominous though, like a bad sender can give you the impression that your car is running properly.

The gauge was not working on that car.

infrared thermometer
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=261578

bgiovan · #28 04-01-2011, 11:44 AM

This weekend's project. Hopefully. Superior has had the head forever. Question on the head gasket. Don't have the FSM in front of me but is there anyone willing to chime in from the School of Hard Knocks on gasket sealant to lay down first and/or what to clean the top of the block/pistons with prior to reseating the head?

First time doing a head. Thanks!

leathermang · #29 04-01-2011, 11:52 AM

First you do need to check and see what the FSM says .. or some TSB update..
as they may be the type head gasket which DOES NOT USE any other sealant...

AND if it is ... you also need to be aware that the FSM says to be sure the head gasket COVERING is intact .....and only open it up and use it quickly....

I am assuming that the sticky applied can dry out to the point that it will not seal properly ...if open to air too long...

other than that...as to hard knocks.... absolute cleanliness is critical... if you take a clean paper towel with acetone on it...and you can see any darkening on the towel.. KEEP CLEANING.....

and .. these are heavy heads... so if you can put some ' topless head bolts' in the block... two will be enough...
to use to set the head on and it come down exactly straight down on that gasket.. no moving to locate it properly... can be worth a mint in labor saved.. or good sealing of the gasket...

bgiovan · #30 04-01-2011, 11:57 AM

I'm wondering if I should order a new head gasket because unfortunately I did just that. Opened it to trace on cardboard for head bolts (per Haynes instructions) and left it exposed to the air for a spell. Then someone mentioned exactly what you said and I covered it back up in cellophane. But I've head conflicting directions as to whether that matters or not. Hate to spend another $60 because of the oversight but also don't want to have to redo the work either.

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