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  #1  
Old 10-09-2010, 07:18 PM
gastropodus's Avatar
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Location: Portland, OR
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OM602 delivery valve seals

Hi, I wanted to get a professional opinion on the health of my 1986 190D (2.5 liter, normally aspirated motor) that I purchased in August, so I took it Burback Motors here in Portland. Mike Burback and his techs were very accommodating, and were happy to look over my car. Fortunately, it appears that my suspension is OK, but they did quickly notice that I have a diesel leak(s) coming from the injection pump. It appears that I need new delivery valve seals (o-rings and crush washers, apparently). Mike said that it's not too hard a job to do and that I could probably do it myself if I was careful. According to him, the main risk is that whenever you remove the hard injection lines you run the risk of damaging them; they just get fragile with age and vibration, and about half the time he ends up having to order a whole new set.

I looked through the archives and very few threads on OM602 delivery valve seal replacements... are these do-able by a reasonably competent home mechanic? I'm at the level of able to do valve adjustments on my 240D, brake booster/master cylinder kind of stuff. Also wondering, how much does it cost for the special spline tool to remove the top of the valve like I've seen mentioned in some other threads? Finally, my car is a Euro model; one of the things that Mike said he's run into is that the dealers actively don't support Euro models when it comes to parts, and that it might be hard to get new hard lines. Has anyone had good luck or bad luck getting replacement engine parts for Euro cars through other channels?

I've got a set of Monark replacement injectors on order from C. Sean Watts; I'm kind of figuring to take the filter box and inlet manifold off and just do everything on that side of the engine: glow plugs, injectors, delivery valve seals, new injector return hoses. Anything else I'm overlooking?

Also, I'm planning to get Viton o-rings. I'll probably order a Buna example from Peachparts with all my other stuff, and then go to Air Oil Products here in Portland; I'm betting that they can replicate it in Viton. If they're cheap enough, is there anyone else that wants me to pick up some when I'm there?

Cheers,

Kurt

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- '79 240D - engine swap complete! Engine broken in! 28-31 mpg! Lovin' the ride!
- '86 190D (W201-126) - 2.5 NA engine, 5 speed, cloth interior, manual climate controls, 33-34 mpg (sold to forum member).
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:02 PM
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Delivery valve seals aren't difficult to do. Mind the unwritten delivery valve tightening procedure. It's in the TDM but not in the FSM. 30 Nm, loosen, 30 Nm, loosen, 35 Nm. Injector lines aren't an issue with turbo engines since you can leave them attached to the intake manifold. I've never worked on a normally aspirated 602 so I don't know how it's different. I think you minimize damage considerably if you keep the lines bundled and don't force them when attaching.

A splined socket for US models is about $30 on eBay. Hopefully Euros use the same splined socket. You can rent the tool in the tools forum.

That engine came with two different injectors - vertical and oblique. Make sure you're getting the correct injectors since they're not interchangeable. Don't forget new heat shields when you replace the injectors. You probably want new return lines as well.

Any other leaks on the injection pump?

Sixto
87 300D
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Old 10-09-2010, 10:49 PM
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Thanks!

Sixto, thank you for your generous responses on this forum... I had not been aware of the vertical oblique injector issue (and will PM C. Sean Watts pronto!). I think mine are oblique.

As for other leaks, hmm, dunno what to say... the whole top of the injection pump looks pretty wet with diesel. Mike Burback and crew thought that the delivery valve seals were the most likely culprit, but they didn't discount other possibilities. I guess I could try putting some foaming engine cleaner on the pump and then rinsing it off, or maybe just blotting real well with rags. Whatever it is, the leak is not a little thing: dirt sticks to the oil pan because diesel has traveled down there. Come to think of it, I hope it is not traveling over my motor mounts, or they will be toasted.

Kurt
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- '79 240D - engine swap complete! Engine broken in! 28-31 mpg! Lovin' the ride!
- '86 190D (W201-126) - 2.5 NA engine, 5 speed, cloth interior, manual climate controls, 33-34 mpg (sold to forum member).
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  #4  
Old 10-09-2010, 11:04 PM
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A few squirts of aerosol brake parts cleaner will clean the IP well enough to find leak sources without the mess of engine cleaner. But if you want to clean the engine...

I don't mean to second guess your mechanic but look carefully at whether fuel is leaking from between the injector lines and the attaching nut or below this junction. It could be that the injector lines were over tightened or improperly restrained causing wear between the injector line ball and the delivery valve holder socket and thus a leak a few mm higher than you'd expect from worn delivery valve seals. If an idiot like me can tell the difference within a few seconds, I'm sure a seasoned mechanic can tell by the way sparrows circle his shop

Sixto
87 300D
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  #5  
Old 10-10-2010, 02:55 PM
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ditto on spraying the pump with brake cleaner to clean it up. if you have some compressed air that will help as well.

for referance i just got the 32splined Hazel insert socket from the dealer for 27.50$ the o-rings for .90 cents each and crush washers for 2$
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:00 PM
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part numbers. tightening scheme etc.

thanks sixto for the unwritten rule. did not do that tightening scheme and now its running like ****. and 02isb can you post part numbers for what to tell the dealer on the Hazel insert socket. the o-rings. and the crush washers how do you replace the crush washers and what are they and what do they do, just curious? are they under the star bolts? i need to remove the lines again, take off the guides and then re tighten with the proper torque pattern and maybe then it will stop shaking and coughing so much smoke.

any thoughts?
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2012, 03:10 PM
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So you went ahead and did the repair yourself? Good deal.

Funny, I know people that have done the DV seals and just tightened them up with no issue. I have always followed the proper procedure to the letter, but who knows what is best?
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  #8  
Old 03-20-2012, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastropodus View Post
As for other leaks, hmm, dunno what to say... the whole top of the injection pump looks pretty wet with diesel. Mike Burback and crew thought that the delivery valve seals were the most likely culprit, but they didn't discount other possibilities. Kurt
I replaced the DV seals on my W201, 2.2L when I first got it due to diesel leaking from the top of the IP. I wasn't sure it was DV seals but it didn't take much forum reading to discover these were a known culprit. I'm about the same level of DIYer as yourself and I didn't find it too challenging. I didn't remove the intake manifold but if you do, it will be a simple repair. I would advise to carefully clean the area before starting as the top of the IP is flat and it would be really easy to get some debris in the system. Use ample amounts of brake cleaner and compressed air before starting.

Good luck and enjoy your 190. I find mine is growing on me.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:58 PM
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I think you are better off doing the job yourself because you are going to put take more time in research and put more time into the job that anyone else will.

Most Mechanics are people find what is wrong and swap the whole component. As an example a leaking Power Steering Pump. What Mechanic do you know that would replace the Seal on it?
And, replacing the Seal on a Power steering Pump need much less care than replacing the O-rings and Crush Washers on the Fuel Injection Pump.

Another issue is that Mechanics do not like to warrent a job they have not done before.

You actually have an advantage over them because you can take the time to sit and read all off the Threads on the job and learn what to avoid doing so the Job comes out OK. A Mechanic is not going to do that on the Job and is unlikely to spend his off time doing research no the job.

Note: This is not a job for a Harbor Freight cheapie click type Torque Wrench.

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