PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum - Upper Control Arm Lower Ball Joint Front Brakes

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Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007 (Post 2561869)

It's hard to drive around with torn boots and not contaminate the joint. The FSM recommends that boots never be replaced independently unless they were torn during current maintenance.

A new OEM ball joint can be had for under $25. What does a new boot kit cost?

Other Thoughts:
The last time I looked the lower Ball Joint boots were in the $5-$6 each range.

But, what is missing in the equation when comparing changing the Boots to changing the complete Ball Joint is the effort it takes sometimes to get an Old Ball Joint out to replace it or the added expense to have some one else do it.
I believe can change the Boots with out removing the Wheel Hub and Rotor.

Changing the Boots is something that is way easier to do than going through the effort or expensive to pay someone to remove an otherwise good Ball Joint.

Not everyone has a Vice that is mounted on a Sturdy enough Work Bench that they can put the Steering Knunckel into so they can beat out the the Old Ball Joint. Or maybe not even a heavy enough Hammer.

Also by retaining the same Ball Joints there is a good chance you will not need to have the Front End aligned.

You, are more likely to need an alignment if you do not use OM Ball Joints; assuming the Old Joints are originals.

Whoever is doing the job has to decide what options are best for them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007 (Post 2561869)

This is true but if you do the proper checks to see if the Ball Joint is OK and you clean it up and regrease; and install a new Boot you are going to get several years of use out of that joint.

If after those several years the Joints have gone bad you can install New Ball Joints.

As stated earlier in this post, the passenger side needed to be replaced. The drivers side boot was split and when I removed the knuckle, the ball joint was full of grease and brown rusty grease.... Since I was doing all that other work, uppers and brakes...................... why not change both lowers. If i need an alignment, might as well change both. Never heard of getting half your car aligned!

<what's in the 820.00 parts list?
there is a thread on here somewhere about piping in SS 3" tubing for about 200.00 i'd go that route... >

front pipe
mid muffler (resonator)
Muffler at tail end
misc hangers
one seal
clamps for pipes

Where's the thread on SS 3" tubing? Is 3" too large a diam?

I guess, the only connection I have to worry about is the first one, near the engine (as far as the dismantle part of the job)....

Quote:

Originally Posted by triacon (Post 2562333)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=282701&page=2

Anyone these guys? "Time Valve" for a complete exhaust system made from Stainless.

http://www.timevalve.com/

Charlie

Quote:

Originally Posted by triacon (Post 2562192)

Reason I am asking about exhaust is because, when I was a young man, I had a horrible time with a honda accord swap out... swore i would never touch an exhaust system again.... That was in 1985 and i am now almost twice my age then, something tells me to stay away from that rusty group of metal objects.....

Totaled up the parts for a complete job and it's around $820.00

Not sure what the shop time is, any educated guesses out there?

My total was ~$500. That included the oem (ANSA) muffler. A new flex pipe too.
I did not replace the resonators, instead had the guy run a straight pipe back to the muffler. He welded on a support on the pipe at the stock hanger positions on the side, so I could use those hanger points with stock hangers.