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SLS valve adjust question
Anyone have experience with adjusting the SLS valve?
I rebuilt mine with Andrew's o-ring kit and his great write up (thank you) and the system now works great. My question is - should the system be pressurized in the neutral position? I noticed that there is a rock-bottom position (no pressure from valve) - if i manually disengage the valve (unhooked from the sway bar, car is up on ramps and safe) the car comes down and rests. Car seems low at that point, if i engage the valve the car raises up (as it should), do I then adjust the adjusting rod at that height? or should it be adjusted when the car settles with 'no pressure' from the valve...did that make any sense at all? thanks, Chuck
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1982 Mercedes Benz 300TD Wagon 1969 BMW 2002 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado |
#2
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That is unchartered waters for me but this thread might help.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=263992 Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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Are you asking whether pressure should be flowing into the hydraulic rams in the neutral position or whether the hydraulic rams should be holding pressure in the neutral position? If the latter, then I believe the answer is yes. If the former, then I believe the answer is no.
I say this because of my experience with a broken high pressure line in the system. When it broke, I obviously had no pressure yet I drove a lot of miles with a heavy load and the car level. Only when I unloaded the car (without thinking) did the car drop. I believe that was because the valve was moved from the neutral position with the weight removed and there was no pressure to set the system at the proper new unweighted level.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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Charlie, thank you for that. I had searched but somehow missed this thread. It's still a bit cloudy to me, but I'll re-read and see if i can figure it out.
best, Chuck
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1982 Mercedes Benz 300TD Wagon 1969 BMW 2002 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado |
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Inside the SLS valve body are 3 valves. A fill, release and a base pressure valve. The system should be adjusted so the car sits level with the lever in the neutral position which can be found by sticking a rod through the lever into the hole in the valve body.
The fill and release valves then maintain the level ride height depending on the weight of the load in the rear.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
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Quote:
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1996 E300 110,000 1985 300TD 212,000 1980 300D 238,000 |
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Quote:
The connecting rod needs to be adjusted to keep the lever in the neutral position and the level will be maintained. I was referring to the other wagons I've seen that were adjusted to increase the ride height so you end up hearing the SLS fill and release to hold that height while driving with no load in the rear. If the lever is in the neutral position, the base pressure is established and there is no filling and releasing unless you hit a huge bump that causes the lever to move and then it's only for a brief moment.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
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I think that the lever will be in the neutral position at normal unladen ride height regardless of spring sag, if that's what the OP is asking.
Whether there is some pressure in the dampers & spheres when the car is unladen at normal ride height, is another question. Personally, I believe so as wthout pressure there is no fluid available for jounce (empty spheres/accumulators), and no pressure available to prevent boiling of the fluid during jounce. I just can't see the rear suspension working properly without enough pressure to at least partially fill the accumulators. In the front dampers/struts, there is gas pressure for these reasons, I suspect that some pressure is designed into the rear also.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
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