Looking at an '87 300SDL - suggestions

[Austin85]

Hi.

I am going to look at an '87 300SDL on Sunday/or Monday.

Supposed low-ish miles ...132 on clock (broken ) estimated 150k

Is owned last 3 yrs by european mechanic

Does anyone have links to read up on this model...or suggestions for any things I should be checking on ??

I'm less familiar with the 87 engine ..I know this is not the same as the pre-< 85

Thanks

AA

...

[dagObx]

I am not that familiar with the 126 cars, but it has the same engine that my '87 300D has, which is the 603. It's a 6 cyl. turbo engine that, with some very minor mods is a rocket ship. You should also see if it has the #14 head or not (mine does, but will not be a problem if you don't overheat the engine). Just about all reports I have read here say that the 126 is a dream to drive & gets fairly good MPG.

As far as what else to look for, the usual rust areas (jack-points, fenders, etc.) should be inspected. Others will chime in to add to what I have said.

Good luck!!

[Hit Man X]

132k? That would be one low mine SDL, probably 232k. I believe the high mile odometers, not the low unless proven with stacks of documents. My 300SEL just rolled 271k. The SDL is significantly quicker than an SD, if it drives slow something is amiss.

Ask for ALL records if the 'Euro Mechanic' did indeed actually own it... not just a car left by a customer he filed a lien against and ended up owning.

The head issue is over-exaggerated to me... it is not as if you drive around the corner and it blows up. Just drive like a normal person, make sure the cooling system works with proper coolant, have a radiator made in this millennium, run the RED aux fan switch, good fan with clutch, and drive it. The cars I have seen with cracked heads all have been driven into the ground.



Buy these cars for paint first. A quality paint job is VERY difficult to mimic on the cheap. THEN look at interior condition. The rest of the ancillary stuff can be fixed pretty easily with time and determination. i.e. suspension, HVAC, stereo, brakes, etc

[Austin85]

I don't know if a mechanic has receipts of work he has done himself...He probably doesn't bill himself if he owns the garage and the car.....

Guys seems not like a desperate guy ,....and was open to disclose some issues ...maybe even all ( he is aware of)....he mentioned somesurface rust on trunk lid...a leak in 1 caliper, and drivers wallet tear in leather...some work he has done replaced are suspension brakes , condenser for A/C...

Yes ...Exterior /Interior condition is important to me...I already have a "beater" ,

I'll see the car Sunday parked outside his shop; which is nice cuz only 10min from my GF's house.....and if passes the visual...will

go further on Monday am when he opens up.....

What i plan on checking is electrics windows; sunroof; Air; cruise c; the turbo kicking in..( read there was recall on the trap oxidizer that MB still warranties) ...want to know if timing chain has been replaced or checked recently.....

any other thoughts welcome.....


AA

[Hit Man X]

So he would not keep receipts from the previous 20 (or so) years when he did not own it?

[Austin85]

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

So he would not keep receipts from the previous 20 (or so) years when he did not own it?

yes i will ask for all and any paperwork....so far we only spoke 1 x and it was good

definetly have w had many worse 1st talks with owner /sellers......

DO you have any idea what mpg this model gets ?

Ive seen from19/20 up to 30/32 so far....(Love the internet..)

Also any good links to read up on the SDL, or its engine, or quirks..?

Thanks
AA

[Hit Man X]

Originally Posted by Austin85

yes i will ask for all and any paperwork....so far we only spoke 1 x and it was good

definetly have w had many worse 1st talks with owner /sellers......

DO you have any idea what mpg this model gets ?

Ive seen from19/20 up to 30/32 so far....(Love the internet..)

Also any good links to read up on the SDL, or its engine, or quirks..?

Thanks
AA

It averaged 23-25mpg combined from what I can recall, but I do not drive fast on the freeway and I leave the car in 3rd around town plus summer blend versus winter blend change mileage. 60-65mph usually (mainly due to traffic). Freeway only trips w/o A/C I have achieved 29-31mpg, A/C obviously drops... as does BioDiesel which I often run.

I really do not keep up with it much anymore as the car has been on and off the road for a while. Since I finally rebuilt the front end, I will probably begin to keep tabs on it once again. Econ has always been plenty adequate to me considering it is a non intercooled IDI with a nonlock up converter.

The power is far more refined than a 617. More linear and just more of it. When I purchased mine it would barely move out of its own way, since being here I learned quite a bit so the search is your friend and you can read for months. I had a plugged overboost relay and some hackjob of an exhaust to fix along with an accelerator pedal that would barely open the fuel rack... now the car will absolutely blow my 617s doors off (my SD has new chain, injectors, properly set valves, etc and runs great). Anyone who thinks the 617 is faster needs to drive a top shape 603 powered car.

Seems to me I purchased mine about five years ago this past summer.



Just read, read, and read about all your questions. If the car has low/no records just bring a flashlight and start to look it over all by hand. Inspect it all and assume nothing then pay accordingly.

If it has a records for all sorts of things, newer head, minimal/no leaks, proper power delivery, good front end, etc it is just going to be worth more as very few I have driven and nearly purchased are sorted well.

Lastly, hope to hell it does not have a 134A or some blend conversion... they work like ****. It is not difficult to return back to R12, but time consuming to do it properly so it will last.