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  #1  
Old 11-21-2010, 05:02 PM
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Do I need a new bearing pin for chain tensioner rail?

My low compression discussion thread will be replaced by a head R&R thread as I seek the expert's advice on my motor's innards.

Head's off, so I'm replacing the chain tensioner rail just because. Please take a look and see if you can answer a few questions:

1. Does the bearing bolt appear to be reusable? The wear is significant.. about .005" at the most. I'm guessing probably not good. So maybe my real question is, anyone know who sells these?


2. How many miles do you think this timing chain rail has on it? I had a shop replace the timing chain @250k, they were supposed to do the rail too. Think they did?




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Old 11-21-2010, 05:06 PM
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Additionally.. that lower tensioner pin was a bear to get out. Impact puller failed, special threaded puller failed, ended up having to pull the front crank seal cover and make up my own puller.



Attention! If the $#%^ bearing bolt is stuck so well it busts up the special tool, make a bigger special tool. And pull the crankcase cover so you don't need a recess.

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  #3  
Old 11-21-2010, 10:16 PM
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Those pins are tricky to get out but usually can be reused. I think the first one I pulled on my 62 finny I used a thermostat housing bolt and a bunch of washers!
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:11 AM
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If you can figure out what side the worn side was facing you can turn it 180 degrees and install it. That way it will have a fresh surface to wear on.

You might simply ask the Dealer how much one costs. I bet they have had some in stock for a very very long time and never sold any.
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  #5  
Old 11-22-2010, 02:40 AM
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See if the old one even fits into the bore of the new tension rail. It doesn't look like it is the same bore, so there should be a new one available with the new rail.

Jim
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1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
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Owned:
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  #6  
Old 11-22-2010, 11:28 AM
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Just checked, they're both the same bore - I dropped some pin gauges in, the old one is .316" and the new one is .315".


I think this pin gave me so much trouble because there was a little bit of rust around the edge near the surface of the block. The first puller I had used a 8.8 M8x1.25 bolt and washers.. it broke the bolt. The second one was a 12.9 M8 stud threaded into the end of a 3/4" bolt, in 4130 tubing, with a 1/4" washer backing up the nut.
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  #7  
Old 11-22-2010, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If you can figure out what side the worn side was facing you can turn it 180 degrees and install it. That way it will have a fresh surface to wear on.

You might simply ask the Dealer how much one costs. I bet they have had some in stock for a very very long time and never sold any.
True but that doesn't often reflect in the price more's the pity
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I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #8  
Old 11-23-2010, 01:03 PM
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All set, found one used.
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  #9  
Old 11-23-2010, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
True but that doesn't often reflect in the price more's the pity
Actually I was trying to indicate they might sell it cheap just to get rid of the part. Parts sitting on the shelf for long periods are a waste of money not accruing any interest.

As sort of an example: I had an old 1957 BSA A10 Motorcycle. While I had it apart I managed to lose the what I will call Crank Case Breather Valve.

There was a local shop that specialized in old English Bikes. He had a lot of new old stock and used parts.

When I ask him if he had a breather and how much it costs he pulled out a rather large box full of Crankcase Breather Valves and just gave it to me for free. He said he had never sold or even had any one ask for one.

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