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Make your Mercedes more visible at night - LED taillight DIY
A common criticism of driving an old mercedes (particularly a diesel with a cloud of black smoke behind) is the lack of visibility at night. I can always pick out a w123 or w126 from a distance because of the dimly lit, downward-facing running lights. Stepping on the brakes does not do too much either, unless you are blessed with a third center brake light. With that in mind, I realized that there was a large portion of the w126s taillights that are NOT being used at any given time. There is the inside red lens where the euro fog lights would go (but U.S. versions have nothing) as well as only half of the main red area being used for running lights. Since I have a spare w126 laying in the yard, I took one of the tails off of it to experiment and this writeup is a result of that experimenting. I have a working prototype and will be converting the other taillight as soon as I can run down to the parts store for another LED light. Advantages of this LED light setup:
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any harm or damage as a result of your following these directions. I am not implying or expressing that these taillights may be street legal in your local area. Ok, so here is what you need: - figures 1.1, 1.2: a DOT-approved 3 prong LED taillamp from NAPA, the type that you see on trailers and trucks. Cost about $25 if I remember correctly. Mine was about 3.5" diameter, filling up the whole red area of the tail light - w126 tail lamp assembly - soldering iron plus flux, shrink wrap, solder, and bullet-type electrical pins - some way to cut plastic. Doesn't need to be pretty. I used a dremel with a variety of tips - super glue - about 1-2 hours of time 1. Completely disassemble the tail lamp. You'll have to separate the gasket (good time to replace it too), lens assembly, "reflector" assembly, and the metal strip with light sockets. 2. cut out room for the LED lamp in the reflector assembly. This takes some time and patience to get perfectly right. I got it after about an hour of trimming. You have to make sure to take the middle light separator out. Interesting note is that the plastic is crudely painted "reflective" silver. I can't imagine it doing much good in terms of light reflectivity. 3. Eventually get the LED snug in the reflector assembly so that it presses up against the lens/refractors (figures 3.1, 3.2). A couple dabs of super glue to the reflector assembly will make sure it doesn't go anywhere. Secure the screws to the lens, making it all one piece again. A good idea to test out the LED on a car battery for proof of concept (figure 3.3) 4. Wiring! Everybody's favorite thing! Actually it couldn't get ANY easier than this. First off, take either the bulb socket for the running lamp or the taillight and snip the wire off of it. Put that bulb socket in the "blank" space, where the euro fog light would go. The LED bulb I had already had the appropriate connections molded into the plastic: "tail", "ground" and "brake". Connect and solder:After that is all neatly done you can connect everything back up (figure 4.1) 5. Plug it in and try it out! (Figure 5.1) See the difference--I apologize my camera is NOT good at taking night shots so it is difficult to see. The camera actually makes it look a bit worse than stock but I can guarantee you in person the difference is dramatic. Remember that LEDs produce one wavelength of light and bulbs produce a spectrum, I think that whatever the wavelength is for these LEDs is not well reproduced by my cheap camera whereas the spectrum is sort of a "flood" of light. Anyways, I noticed the normal taillights are not only pointing down and using 1/4 or so of the available space, but they are also amber colored. Using the LEDs brought light to the entire surface including the part FACING drivers behind you, and they light brighter as the brakes are hit. The biggest difference is the added brake light. Originally I used a larger bulb in the socket but it was too bright (figure 5.2). Putting a smaller bulb (like that used in the old running light socket) was perfect. I will feel much more comfortable cruising around at night in my 300SD now knowing that people behind me will actually know I am there now, and know when I am braking. The addition of a center brake lamp will also compliment the enhanced visibility of this project, that is certainly on the list for me. I hope you guys find this useful! Figures: 1.1, 1.2: The LED lamp that I used. Typical truck lamp. Figure 3.1, 3.2: The aftermath of a lot of cutting/trimming Figure 3.3: proof of concept hooked up to car battery Figure 4.1: wired and ready for assembly Figure 5.1 brakes on: 5.2: with the "euro" bulb that was too bright
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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In case you don't want to do the LED, installing a 2nd 1157 brake bulb in the empty compartment will do just as good of a job. Everything is there. All you need is the bulb and IIRC a jumper wire to connect it.
I believe I posted this some time back like 3-4 yrs ago. Otherwise, they sell 1157 LED bulbs too but I don't know if they fit or howell they work.
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
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Quote:
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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I don't think this size fits in the w123.
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1981 300TD 4 speed manual Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light |
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What affect do the LED lamps have on Cruise Control operation? Theoretically, since you are including the original bulb in the setup, the control unit would still see the application of the brakes as a removal of ground. Without it, you might see problems as I think the LED might not provide the conductive path that the bulb provides when not operating.
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mjk '84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel) '84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car) '82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car) |
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Quote:
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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The procedure is probably the same though, I can't imagine the two are that much different. Might have to settle for a square LED tail cluster or something but really its a matter of cutting out the reflector to fit the LED.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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