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  #1  
Old 12-02-2010, 03:17 AM
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AHHHH, no rear brakes!

My rear brakes don't work! I bled them, no air, brake fluid is flowing. It appears only one side of the calipers (outside) is working as the outter side of the rotors are clean. I think the inner pistons are siezed, the inner surface is rusted. I have heard of pistons siezing on, but never off. Anyone ever encountered this? could the calipers at fault or is it most likely the master cylinder just not sending enough pressure to move both pistons? Everything is quite rusted, I think the car sat for a long time.

'86 190D

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  #2  
Old 12-02-2010, 03:18 AM
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I vote for calipers.

I had the same thing happen to my TD's rear calipers. I bought new ones.
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  #3  
Old 12-02-2010, 03:23 AM
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The rear calipers have a smaller diameter than the fronts - they don't get used as much - if something will seize it will seize in the position where it spends most of its time (or there abouts)
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2010, 03:37 AM
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Thanks for the quick responces! I guess I will start hunting down calipers.
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2010, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
1986 : Mercedes Benz : 190D Diesel : GAS ENGINE - notes: w/4 WHEEL DISC, ATE DESIGN 190E 2.3L - EXC 16V 190D 2.2, 2.5L - EXC TURBO
What is "ATE" design?
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2010, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weird beard View Post
What is "ATE" design?
Have a look at the buy parts link above - find the calipers for your car - and you'll see that there are 2 types of calipers listed: Bendix and ATE. These are different manufacturers and different designs. EDIT:- I'm assuming this is the same for a W124 - as it is for a W123

You shouldn't mix brands on the same axle => for example (all) ATE front and (all) Bendix back = OK BUT ATE on front left and Bendix on front right = BAD!

I think this is recommended because the Bendix and ATE calipers have different sized pistons - i.e. the design is different
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1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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Last edited by Stretch; 12-02-2010 at 06:55 AM. Reason: Added in a disclaimer!
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2010, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by weird beard View Post
Thanks for the quick responces! I guess I will start hunting down calipers.
It might be worth your while just taking them apart and seeing what the damage is... corrosion will always be the killer - generally speaking if the piston's shiny surfaces are pitted and rusted I would call it a day and buy some new calipers - but post some photos first if you want to be sure / surer.

The downside to doing this is the down time involved - it can be an easy job - but I wouldn't count on it. Murphy's law can really bite you in the soft bits if you need to get it done quickly for this sort of job!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #8  
Old 12-02-2010, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by weird beard View Post
Thanks for the quick responces! I guess I will start hunting down calipers.
calipers are usually very easy to rebuild. the only possible snag is when the pistons are well seized and you can't remove them.
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  #9  
Old 12-02-2010, 09:45 AM
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Weird,
Make sure you check the thickness of your disks. When they get thin, if you have pads that are on the way out, the pads have trouble contacting the disks as they are held apart by the anti rattle components.
Some times a little brake clean or wd40 sprayed under the dust seal will loosen them enough.
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  #10  
Old 12-02-2010, 12:02 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by weird beard View Post
What is "ATE" design?
BENDIX or ATE caliper?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=275588

As stated, the pistons and hardware are not interchangeable.

You can use one brand or the other, but NEVER both brands on the same axle.




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  #11  
Old 12-02-2010, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punkinfair View Post
calipers are usually very easy to rebuild. the only possible snag is when the pistons are well seized and you can't remove them.
x2, I always try and rebuild before I replace. Rebuilding calipers is quick and easy. The only gotcha is if the piston or the bore is rough or pitted - then it's time to buy a new one.
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2010, 06:47 PM
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Just for what it is worth, my 240d had both rear pads rusted stuck in the caliper. The piston in the caliper moved just fine.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2010, 06:51 PM
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NAPA has rebuilds.
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  #14  
Old 12-02-2010, 07:19 PM
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Can't afford down time. My only ride. If I take them apart and they are fubar I am screwed! I located TRW ATE style with pads for $24 each! How can I go wrong with that! New calipers pads and rotors, I think that should fix any problems. I will probably do the front brakes after X-mas as they are getting low.
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2010, 07:32 PM
Craig
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I wouldn't rule out the master cylinder if both rear brakes are affected, I don't trust coincidences.

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