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#1
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Strange starter noise right when engine starts
Hey all,
When starting first thing in the morning when I disengage the starter (let go of key after the engine starts) I have been starting to get a single metallic clang. It sounds like a single pebble hits the bell housing. No change in starting performance - and car starts great cold. Is this some sort of tell tale sign of starter/solenoid problems? dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#2
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Sounds like a problem with the gear on the end of the starter shaft. Maybe the wire ring that holds the stop has gone & the gear is pushing against the end of the starter body.
I would pull the starter & investigate before it fails big time.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#3
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Quote:
Anything to try before pulling the starter? I think for starters (bad dum ching) I'll double check it's indeed coming from the starter area.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#4
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sorry for the blunt honesty ! I was speaking from my own past experience.
Hope I am wrong with my prediction.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#5
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Check to make sure the bolts are tight, but if it's been on there awhile they probably are. Failing that, just replace the starter and do it before any damage is done to the ring gear. Changing the starter is no big deal, changing or turning around the ring gear WOULD be a big deal.
Hope this helps. |
#6
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Quote:
When I open it up, how do I know if the ring gear is OK? (Any good start R and R tips? I hear for the W123 its not fun)
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#7
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To check the ring gear, simply look at it and see if the teeth are rounded off.
It's been a long time since I replaced a starter on a 617. I replaced many on 616's and it's an absolute piece of cake. On the five cylinder, however, if I remember correctly, there's something in the way that has to be removed. It's just one of those things you have to roll up your sleeves and dive into it. Whatever is in the way you will find out and remove it. |
#8
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Disconnect your battery, & the leads on the starter. 2 bolts with allen heads hold the starter. When you get it out, you can look in the hole & see the ring gear. The teeth will probably be worn on the edges. You can rotate the motor to inspect all the teeth, Any missing teeth is a worry.
A junk yard starter is probably the easiest solution.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#9
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Quote:
I think I get it now, the starter isn't retracting fast enough and it gets in the way, hence the single metallic sound when the ring gear whacks the starter. Any interim solution to this? Oil or grease in the right spot? Or just use minimally until I can take it and R&R? BTW, if this thing is coming out, a Bosch reman is going back in :-) Thanks guys, I love going from mystery sound to plan of attack within an hour
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#10
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I have removed the starter a few times, and it goes in and out from under the car. no need to drop a tierod. It will fit between tierods etc.... and is a tight fit.
To remove the starter bolts, I have a piece of 10mm hex bit 1 1/2 in long or so, I cut off an Allen wrench.I stick it in the starter bolt, put a long 10mm box wrench to loosen it, then use a 10mm gear wrench to remove. The lower bolt is removed from undernieth, and the upper bolt from on top. worked for me. I just put my transmission back in yesterday, so know what Iam talking about. there is also a "L" bracket on the rear of the starter, that is bolted to the block. takes some of the weight off the starter bolts. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#11
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hmmm is the L bracket on all 616/617 starters? I just pulled a starter from my 240 (much easier than a 300...) and it had no bracket.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#12
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Sounds like the overrun clutch in the starter is shot?
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#13
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Is there anything I can do in the meantime to prevent any potential flywheel damage?
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#14
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If you are a bit worried about not being able to inspect the flywheel without removing the starter - you can actually see a lot of the flywheel by removing the little cover at the rear end of the upper oil pan and the bell housing (front bit of the gear box).
You are meant to remove this bit of metal to apply a flywheel lock if you need to stop the crank from turning - for whatever appropriate maintenance... but it would serve your purpose too.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#15
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Quote:
Starter is coming out as soon as I have a chance, and Ill inspect it then. I didnt know if there was some quick temporary fix I could do to make my starter not clank against the flywheel, thereby minimizing potential for damage. Im ready for some starter R&R. One more week of grad school for the semster...
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
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