Maybe a little nit picky
 

Did you mean to write right? (For P/N 126 420 05 83.) Sometimes, okay most times, I manage to confuse myself too.:rolleyes:

Thanks for documenting the data BTW.

MBZ123

Ummmm yes I think I did! That'll be the left on the right, right?

(Made good now - thanks)

I was offered a set of aluminum trailing arms off a 6.9. But I assume they would have at least same problems as you have found with 126 arms? Would you agree? Especially if I want plug and play.

A custom roll bar should only be around $400, and you could go super heavy. Or cut up the 126 bar, sleeve it with tubing, and weld back together.

W116 6.9 looks like it is the same as what I've got - I say looks 'cos I'm looking at the pictures on the Russian EPC.

Here they are =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1378393589

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1378393589

It looks good - but - in addition to the roll bar problem I think you might have an axle problem. I think - only think! - that the W116 axle cans are larger than the W126 / W123 ones so you might not get a W123 axle to sit in the intended hole on the trailing arm. This might not be a problem though...

...it is a gamble.

If however, you've got something from a W109 on offer 6.3 instead of 6.9 think twice! =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1378393589

Very different and probably wasn't aluminium anyway - so ignore me I'm just being silly...

I was thinking 10 minutes with my TIG welder and the W126 / 107 ends welded onto a W123 bar...

Oh yeah, if you have a welder why is this even a question?

It isn't really a question anymore. This thread has developed over quite a few months. It just needs someone to do it and show that it can actually be done.

If the little d gets sorted out and the car officially becomes mine then I'll do the conversion - future situation permitting.

I am a bit concerned about welding a torsion bar though.

Don't be :p

Just sleeve any cuts, and preheat before welding. Let the whole piece cool slowly (wrap with newspapers, old fur coat, etc) so it doesn't get too brittle.

...but I still have thoughts of good forged grain structure...

You haven't lived until you've driven without sway bars...and then you will never ever do it again if you live to tell the tale

Sounds like the first time I just counted the threads on tie rods when I changed them...

Bump ...

So, was this ever attempted ?

I haven't gotten vey far with the W123 project

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/restoration-projects-long-term-builds/358482-ups-downs-owning-w123-130-non-turbo-300d.html

I'm still arsing about with welding. If this gets done before I have to move house then there is a chance that I will get the aluminium trailing arms fitted. I know they will fit and it will all work - it is just the anti-roll bar that needs to be sorted.

If I don't get the welding done and the paint on before I get kicked out I'll be scrapping the vehicle.

The mod'ing world's fate rests in your hands Army ... The AMG (pre-merger) crowd comments on this mystical upgrade but no proof of its existence yet. So ....

"Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!"

And leave it that way :eek: :D

I'll do what I can - one week ago I was about to ring the "we'll collect any metal" chap. Things are not going well...

...I'm pretty sure this can be done with minimal arsing about.

...if I have half a chance I'll get it back up in some sort of sale-able state rather than just chucking it away but I might not have that luxury.

[QUOTE=Stretch;3421832]I'll do what I can - one week ago I was about to ring the "we'll collect any metal" chap. Things are not going well...

Sorry to hear that the Holiday season is not too festive ... Always light at the end of the tunnel :)

Hang in there buddy!

x2 You will regret scrapping that thing-it may "just be metal" but the time you've put into it makes it valuable to you.

Thanks folks - I do believe, however, I have gone past the stage of getting too upset about the car. It is only a car. There has been one heck of a lot of serious nasty **** going on to make it seem trivial.

Now if it had those gucci aluminium trailing arms fitted and that M104 turbo conversion done I might be getting a bit more agitated by the potential loss...

...heck with that all done I'd just press down my right foot and zoom off into the ether.

Hope you get things sorted out sooner than later. Do your best to have a good Christmas. Cheers.

Recent developments on this project - but not from me!

Rooster300SD is looking into upgrading W126 normal suspension to anti-squat

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/369862-w126-aluminum-trailing-arm-swap.html

So this is all W126 based information but it kind of important to know about if you too want to fit this system to a W123

Bumping this one ...

Any news?

From reading the thread's various posts, I think this is where it stands -- correct me if I am wrong please:

1. The non-ferrous metal trailing arms (aluminum, magnesium, titanium, or whatever they are made from) will bolt right into a W123;

2. Once needs to use the donor's W126's brake calipers and miscellaneous items in the conversion;

3. The "only" issue is the rear sway bar set up (forget it's technical name);

4. One would be adding around 20 or so pounds with this conversion

I believe AMG did this conversion back in the day, but I still have not received any feedback from the AMG crowd ...

Anyone try this BTW?

Is the adding 20# and established fact? Seems hard to imagine mb would make these weigh more than the steel ones.

One of the posts in the thread indicated someone weighed them ... I think Charlie but too lazy to go back and verify who weighed them... so, yes it was established assuming the scale was accurate.

When I did my conversion (link in post 73) I didn't weigh them,
but the aluminum arms are much heavier. The difference with
the calipers is that they are mounted on the front side.

The anti-squat bar (sway bar) is a direct bolt on for a 126,
The larger bolt holes are under the existing sway bar brackets
and have rubber plugs in them.

I am very happy with the results. Car handles better and there is
no more bottoming out like I used to have. I have a spare 12 gal
fuel tank in the trunk which adds a fair amount of weight.
I pulled everything from a 500SEL.

Jeff

So, your thoughts on this mod for the W123 overall ???

According to Stretch it won't work on a 123 unless you are willing
to shorten the width of the anti-squat bar with cutting and welding
since the 126 is wider than the 123.

Then you have to figure out the bolt holes, which are missing
on the 123. The 126 has two sets of bolt holes.

For me, it was pretty much plug n play. I was doing the whole rear
end anyway with new subframe bushings, axles and a 2.88 diff.
Ran across the aluminum TA in the JY when I had everything torn
apart and thought I would give it a try. Glad I did.

Jeff

My bad ... I thought you did this on a W123. So, the only R&D so to speak is tapping holes for the rear SB brackets and mod-ing the rear SB (for W123 applications).

Amazing.

Nice to hear a success story.

One of these days I'll drag my W123 out of storage and get this done. I have just arranged for some hobby garage space but seeing as I'm chasing old Land Rovers I might not get to do the W123 for a while yet!

Hello Gents , I do really need the anti-scuat on my 123 , I install a 5.6 engine with a 5 speed manual transmission and on take off it does bottoms down and on long turns on the freeways I have to be easy on the gas when shifting , so far what I have done for suspension and wheels =

8.5 x 16
H&R springs for a 123 280 E
KWB 420 sel HD shocks
19mm rear sway bar

questions
the sear sway bar I order it with one more hole to tried more stiffness ,can I use it ?

any wagon came with anti squat ?

at the same time I need a LSD 3.27 if you may have one

Thank you for your time

Carlos