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#1
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two problems: are they related? 1983 300sd
Hey, I am having two problems of late. The first is that the car starts poorly when it is warm, but great when it's cold. The second is that it is damn close to not shutting down when I turn the key off. Could there be a vacuum problem causing both, or are they unrelated?
Ted |
#2
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Answer
Possible answer = failing shutoff valve.
If the diaphragm is damaged = the vacuum system sucks engine oil = check the vacuum line for oil. Replace with a new shutoff valve if oil is in the vacuum line.. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#3
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I just replaced a shut off valve on one of ours a few months ago with a brand new bosch one, it has since failed and is leaking oil. Apparently they do not make much like they used to.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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I can't think of a connection between the two problems. Vacuum leaks or bad shut off diaphragm explains the shut off problems but not the other---UNLESS--wait I minute, I've got it!!! If there is a problem in the ignition switch causing vacuum NOT to be bled off the shut down circuit and NOT fed too the shut down circuit, both problems would be explained. If the vacuum is not completely bled off the shut down circuit, the car will be hard to start.
Test: Pull off the brown vacuum line at the shut off valve before you try to start it hot the next time. If it starts fine with the vacuum line removed, I've correctly identified the problem.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#5
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apparently if u swapped the 2 vac line into the ignition kills valve it is going to be very hard start. For some reason the valve does have a check valve built in, 1 side allows the vac to hold vac another goes thru.
All u have to do is to swap the 2 vac lines see if it will start easy when hot. As the vac retains there keep pulling the diaphragm to kill the engine. i had one it was that way, i couldn't understand, soon as I disconnect the vac line that kills the engine at the end of the pump , the car starts in no time. As previous u feel like the engine had been flooded and keep cranking & cranking until the vac disappear then it will fir eup.
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#6
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Occam's Razor..Rasor...Razer...Raiser?
You have a vacuum leak - its slow to shut off (or doesn't) You have a worn out starter - does fine when cold...Hard to start when warm Thats what happened to me...same symptoms as you...just my experience.
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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg |
#7
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There is also a Vacuum Valve located on the Steering Colum Lock that actuates the Shutoff Valve on the Fuel Injection Pump.
Not sure what issues it would cause of not working OK, It also has 2 Vacuum Hoses going to it that could get disconnected or cracked.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#8
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I didn't explain above why you would have hard starts when warm but not cold given my hypothesis. If the vacuum is not being bled off by the ignition switch, it will stop fuel getting to the IP when warm. However after the car has been sitting for a long while the vacuum can bleed off slowly so when the car is next ready to be started there is no vacuum in the shut off line.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#9
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Typically
On high milage Chassis with Bosch Starters,the Dust from the Worn Brushes
exacerbates the "Heat Sink" type "No Hot Start" problems. A dis-assembly and cleaning (New Brushes and mayhaps New Bushings) and your'e good for another 100K.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#10
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I have parts car, so I'll replace the vacuum pump (after testing) and the lines. Thanks for the help and I'll be back if that doesn't work.
Ted |
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