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#1
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Removing monovalve guts
Now that the weather is cooler, of course I have what appears to be a failed monovalue. So no heat.
What would happen if for the next few months I simply removed the internals of the monovalve? Wouldn't I just have heat on tap all the time? Would this be a problem?
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Mike Frederick 1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles 1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles |
#2
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If you gut the monovalve it becomes a monotube and allows flow, which eliminates it as a source of trouble for "no heat".
Where I live, there is a distinct heating season, and a much shorter A/C season. So gutting my monovalve would be OK in the heating season. And it would make my Benz equivalent to my Subaru system which has no such heat control valve, resulting in heat flowing through its heater core all the time. The Subaru climate box simply tries to steer air through either the A/C chiller or the heater core in proportions to mix the temp. Which is stupid in the A/C season because it takes a certain amount of A/C just to overcome the heat and break even. "Fresh air" blows warm in that car because it must pass through the box with the heater core in it. I wish the Subaru had a monovalve, but a pair of vise grips and a rag clamped down on the heater core hose would also do I suppose. Anyway, if my monovalve ever failed and I didn't have a working spare, I'd be inclined to replace it with a pex fitting ball valve from the plumbing shop. Open and close the ball according to season.
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#3
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some vehicles have more than one path in the monovalve... I don't know what would happen there... I think the windshield heater could short circuit the water flow but I don't know.
OP has a D, and I don't think it has the WS heater... so gutting the mono could be OK, how are you going to do it though? take out the solenoid, and put a flat plate on? I like the idea of a manual valve myself...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#4
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I notice you have an 85, same here. I replaced my Monovalve cartridge, and made no difference. my problem is either heat, or no heat.
removing the cartridge would give you heat all the time. then screwing the top back on the assembly should still work w/o making a plate. When you roll the temp wheel all the way to heat, and click it into the detent, do you get heat there? this is the only time I get heat. the other is in defrost which is the default. Then I turn the fan on/off as it ghes too hot/cold. I only get heat out of the def vents and the side vents. nothing on the floor. mine is a vac pod problem. The 240D`s have the best heat system, all manual. never knew how good until we got our 240. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#5
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Before you gut it...
My '83 defaulted to full heat when I simply unplugged the power conection...
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1989 300E 144K |
#6
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Quote:
It's much easier to just disconnect the power. If your AC is working, then maybe something is wrong with the CCU.
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'81 300SD |
#7
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Be prepared for a LOT, A GREAT DEAL of heat if you simply disconnect the power or otherwise disable the valve.
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