I can't figure out how to get the upper bolt off for the life of me.

I have cut off a piece of M10 Hex and stuck it in the allen head. I tried several techniques to loosen it. Sprayed with Aero-Kroil. Nothing has broken it free.


Help....Im out of ideas

UPDATE: [I wrote up the entire job, and the solution to this problem here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=290958]

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

I use the ball type low profile universal socket with several 1/2" extensions, and an impact wrench... snap on is my friend...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I used a 10mm allen key, lots of extensions and a universal joint attacked to a 1/2 breaker bar. It popped loose pretty easy once you get the correct tool setup.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Auto zone has a long 18 inch extension. It's perfect. 10 mm Allen Socket on it works perfect.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

On my n/a, I use a Allen key that has been bent a bit more ~ 110 deg instead of 90. I slip a piece (18") of heavy walled 1/2 id pipe over the arm of the Allen key after it has been fitted into the bolt. It lets me crack it & loosen it from above. It should work on a turbo. The arm of the Allen just misses the firewall.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Agreed on the universal and the multitude of 1/2" drive extensions.

BTW, 3/8" drive extensions are not going to do the job for you.

Also, to break it loose with a 1/2" ratchet is going to be just about impossible............you really need leverage of at least 12"...........that screw is seriously tight.

You do run the risk of rounding the inside of the hex due to the massive torque required to remove it. With this consideration in mind, you might consider heating the head of the screw for about one minute. The heat will lengthen the screw slightly and will simultaneously remove a huge amount of the clamp load.

I recently saved my ass on the new 2002 van trying to remove the oil pan screw. Some DB tightened it way too much and the oil was left in this engine way too long and there was NFW that I'm getting it out without stripping the hex head. I'm using a proper six point box wrench and it's not having any of that. So, I get the propane torch out and hit the head for about 45 seconds..........trying to avoid the nylon washer beneath the head.

Try again...........no go.

Wait about two minutes.

Try again and it comes loose almost without effort. Amazing what a touch of heat in the right place will do...........even when the screw has a massive heat sink from the oil.

I strongly recommend this on that screw for the starter. If you round out that screw the alternatives become too brutal to contemplate.

Heat + 18" 1/2" drive extension and use the cheater bar. Universal joint as well.

Will give it a try.

I can already see what a treat this thing is going to be to extract from the car once it's unbolted....yeesh.

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

3/8 worked for me. But it was a southern car and I had done it recently before that. It's not bad with that long extension and universal and Allen socket and cheater bar. 15 min job as long as Allen isn't already stripped.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

1984 300D TURBO 155K
USE A LIFT HYD JACK UNDER THE BREAKER BAR AND LONG EXTENSION, LOWER TRANS 2-3 INCH GO OVER THE TOP TRANS

Dieseldan, I use a short piece of 10mm hex I cut off. then use a 10mm long box wrench to break it loose. I come in from the top side and reach down behind the engine. then use a 10mm gear ratchet wrench. Maybe because I use Anti-Seiz it comes right off w/o much efort.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

What Charlie said 2X,

I did mine from above with a short length of 10mm hex, 10mm wrench, 18" cheater and far more muscle than I thought the bolt would endure. My BP shot up as it broke free, and not break the bolt.

Good Luck,

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Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW

On my NA I went in from the top side. I pulled the battery tray and air cleaner setup. I couldn't get it from underneath. Although since yours is a turbo you would jhave to remove that. Probably not all that hard to do though...

If you want to go the Impact Wrench route but do not have an Air Compressor I have found that the Harbor Freight 12 volt Impact Wrenches (I have 4 of them) work almost as good as a pneumatic Impact Wrench.
They are made for removing the Wheel Blots or Lug Nuts and for that they also speed up Tire Rotation or will make a Tire Change quicker.
I Bought one of here newer ones about a month ago and it seems to have more pep to it than the one pictured. They sell $25-$30 depending on if there is a sale.
I also works great to snatch off the Alternator Pulley Nuts and I even manage to remove the Crankshaft Bolt on my Volvo Diesel that has more than 200 ft pounds of Torque on it.
I try to keep one in each of my Vehicles.

The Universal Joints for Sockets that have a Ball type Universal Joint are sold as Universals for Impact use.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Depending on how tight the bolt is this may or may not work. I have broken a 10 mm box end wrench using it on a cut down 10 mm allen. If you are gonna try it, use a wrench that has a lifetime guarantee.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Whatever method you use, please take pics of the tools used.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked