'85 300CD-T: Old Auto. trans. (Bowden) cable vs. new one
 

I am in the process of replacing the AT kickdown (aka Bowden) cable on my '85 300CD-T (Calif.). The auto. trans. on the car is the 722.416.

I purchased a new AT kickdown cable from Phil and the new one compared to the old one is really different at the transmission end. I have attached two pictures here that compare them. Incidentally, I do have the two black rubber o-rings/seals that fit onto the trans. end of the new cable.

My question: Are the significant and obvious differences between the two cables just a matter of the part being updated/redesigned since the original one was put on the trans. in 1985?

I'd sure appreciate any feedback on this. I'd like to be certain that I have the right part before re-installing the filter, fluid, etc.

Thanks!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...DuoKeepers.gif

The CD rogue T might be the most rare, yet just as incorrect.......

Answer
 

For future readers of this post:

The correct Bowden/AT kickdown cable is part #123-300-69-30 ($57). The o-ring required for this cable is part #016-997-04-48 (<$1).

Other information:
It IS necessary to remove the transmission pan in order to replace the cable at the transmission end. As for removing the cable...with my left hand, I *GENTLY* squeezed the white plastic clips (on the end of the cable) together while rotating the white plastic end of the cable toward the front of the vehicle. With my right hand, I used a large set of long and 90 degree angled pliers on the cable and carefully twisted it up and out of the transmission.

For installation, there is a pin on the underside of the transmission (pan removed) rear of the filter that, when pushed with one's index finger toward the front of the vehicle, causes the "L"-shaped metal hook that connects to the inside of the Bowden cable to rise up toward the passenger seat. You must push this hook up (by way of pushing the pin) when you are reconnecting it to the hook that is inside this end of the Bowden cable. It is necessary to have an assistant push the valve cover end of the cable all the way in so that there is plenty of slack to hook-up the new cable. When hooked, the assistant lets the end of the cable go and you gently install the cable the opposite way that you removed it (you already put the new seal on the transmission end of the cable, right?).

As for absolutely necessary tools...
1. The aforementioned pliers (acquired from Harbor Freight).
2. One of those mirrors similar to what a dentist uses (also available from Harbor Freight).

One more thing regarding acquiring the right cable for the right transmission:
I suggest noting the entire number stamped on the transmission housing (on this vehicle, it is located along the right side of the transmission housing just above the pan's seal) and giving that number to your parts source and asking that they use that number to determine which cable is the correct one. On Fastlane and other parts web sites, I was directed to the *wrong* cable despite the fact that I entered the correct make, model and year of the vehicle.

As for adjusting this cable, I followed the typical advice found here:
First, use the threaded screw at the valve cover end of the cable to move the ball at the end of the cable to a point where it will snap down on the ball of the throttle linkage without the cable having to be pushed or pulled. Then, drive the car and see if there is enough delay between the shifts. In my case, the transmission was shifting too quickly. So, I turned the threaded screw counter-clockwise (so that more of the threads are visible) three or four turns and then drove the car and repeated the process once or twice more until the shifting was not too early nor too late (like Goldilocks, "Just right"). REMEMBER: When you are turning the threaded screw at the valve cover end of the cable, it is best (if you are right handed) to use your left hand to gently but firmly hold the black plastic cable up toward the sky a bit while you use your right hand to turn the threaded screw. This will make the adjusting of the cable very easy. The objective is to turn the threaded screw and not turn the cable's outer shielding. But using the technique I just described, you will turn the threaded screw with ease.

THINK BEFORE YOU ACT, double check everything, take your time, go easy. This job is easier if you have smaller and thinner hands. Certainly not an impossible job (did it with the vehicle on jackstands), total cost $105.49 (cable, o-ring, filter, gasket, ATF).

Best of luck.

Bringing this back up. Where can I get a cable like this?