1987 300D Sigh... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ngarover · #1 01-06-2011, 06:02 PM

Well, I really liked the car the few short months I owned it, but it's looking like it's become a parts cars. It's got a crapload of new parts on it, new windshield, new suspension etc but this new issue is looking like it's the final nail for the car.

The car does run. It's missing on one cylinder and causing the car to overheat.

I have moved the injectors around, and the dead cylinder does not move with the injector.

I'm guessing I over heated it, and blew the head.

Anyone interested in it or have a spare engine for it?

Aquaticedge · #2 01-06-2011, 06:11 PM

er.... why not replace the head? it's ultimately cheaper then getting another car, unless theres more wrong with it then ejust the head

ngarover · #3 01-06-2011, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquaticedge

er.... why not replace the head? it's ultimately cheaper then getting another car, unless theres more wrong with it then ejust the head

Heads seem to cost as much or more than I paid for the car. Where would I even begin to find a head for this engine?

billhard · #4 01-06-2011, 07:14 PM

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=mercedes+603+engine+head

layback40 · #5 01-06-2011, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ngarover

Heads seem to cost as much or more than I paid for the car. Where would I even begin to find a head for this engine?

Start with the parts for sale forum on here if you are in the USA.

babymog · #6 01-06-2011, 09:03 PM

Heads do show up / are available. There is the #14 original head, which you already have, then the #15 and so on until the #22 which didn't arrive until after the end of 603 production for the US car market from what I understand.

Each has an advantage over the earlier versions: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=289965 mostly strength / resistance to cracking.

The #14, although it has a reputation for cracking, can last many miles as many of us will attest, but it made its way to 22 for a reason.

Check your entire engine for any air bubbles, you might have air in the head (overheat) or in the thermostat (doesn't get hot enough to open) or ?? causing part of your problem.

Also, be sure that you are getting fuel to the injector at the cylinder in question, if the delivery valve fails you won't, if the IP is bad you won't, etc.

Are there any other symptoms? Is it smoking, steam, oil in coolant, coolant in oil, etc.? No reason to start right out tearing the engine down as it's usually much less expensive to troubleshoot a running engine. If the head is cracked, it usually will leak gasses into the water jacket, if cracked between the combustion chamber and exhaust (common failure) so that there isn't enough compression to run then you'll still get white smoke from the un-burned diesel in the exhaust, just doesn't sound like a simple cracked head without more signs.

Good luck.

vstech · #7 01-06-2011, 09:14 PM

Post your location so members close to you can assist!
I've got ... 6 603's now. so, if I was close to you, I could help for sure.

ngarover · #8 01-06-2011, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Post your location so members close to you can assist!
I've got ... 6 603's now. so, if I was close to you, I could help for sure.

I'm in Rising Fawn GA. 30 Miles outside Chattanooga Tn.

Too you
Driving directions to Mt Holly, NC
Suggested routes
5 hours 53 mins
US-74 E
332 mi

I've driven farther for needed parts...

ngarover · #9 01-06-2011, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

Heads do show up / are available. There is the #14 original head, which you already have, then the #15 and so on until the #22 which didn't arrive until after the end of 603 production for the US car market from what I understand.

Each has an advantage over the earlier versions: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=289965 mostly strength / resistance to cracking.

The #14, although it has a reputation for cracking, can last many miles as many of us will attest, but it made its way to 22 for a reason.

Check your entire engine for any air bubbles, you might have air in the head (overheat) or in the thermostat (doesn't get hot enough to open) or ?? causing part of your problem.

Also, be sure that you are getting fuel to the injector at the cylinder in question, if the delivery valve fails you won't, if the IP is bad you won't, etc.

Are there any other symptoms? Is it smoking, steam, oil in coolant, coolant in oil, etc.? No reason to start right out tearing the engine down as it's usually much less expensive to troubleshoot a running engine. If the head is cracked, it usually will leak gasses into the water jacket, if cracked between the combustion chamber and exhaust (common failure) so that there isn't enough compression to run then you'll still get white smoke from the un-burned diesel in the exhaust, just doesn't sound like a simple cracked head without more signs.

Good luck.

I'll fire it up tomorrow and and shoot video of it. This way you can see and hear what's going on and maybe point me in the right direction.

vstech · #10 01-06-2011, 11:56 PM

... I'll be making a trip through GA this weekend with my trailer...

ngarover · #11 01-07-2011, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

... I'll be making a trip through GA this weekend with my trailer...

Might have a car for you then... I need a running car and this was my daily driver. My rovers not running right, literally can drive about 80 miles on a tank of gas black smoking all the way... been troubleshooting it for over a month. So having the MB break on me right now was really bad timing.

bdtsr · #12 01-07-2011, 08:52 AM

I just piucked up a complete 603 and trans (other parts too) from a guy in north jersey. He has a rebuilt #14 head (I know) that looked good. He wanted $250 for it.

rebuilt head for 1987 mb 300d turbo w/ less than 10k after rebuild. payed over $500 for rebuild. $250 obo 908-764-0246

ngarover · #13 01-07-2011, 09:06 AM

Here is a video of the car. I ran outside and fired it up. It would be nice if you guys could look at the video and tell me exactly what's wrong and if it something worth fixing, or if the car is worth more scraped out. I like the car and have about 1300 in it as it sits. But, with the issues I'm having on my other car I just don't have a lot of spare cash. That and I just put the new windshield and strut mounts in 2 weeks ago....

Which does bring me to the question, would it even be possible to disable the missing cylinder and run the car on 5? Maybe cut the fuel to that injector?

Anyways, here is the video....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_OLODA1za0

Feel free to drop me a line at 423-201-4910 if you have suggestions, have the parts or want the car....

the tenor man · #14 01-07-2011, 09:53 AM

First my thought would be to do a compression test. If you have a cracked head, it would most likely show low compression on one or more of the cylinders.

You may also want to try removing the oil cap. If you hear or see puffing or a lot of blow-by, this could also be a clue to a cracked head or worn engine.

You could also change the injectors from one cylinder to another just to make sure that the injector is not at fault.

These car are aging and you may be better off just parting it out. I've rebuilt a Mercedes diesel engine (albeit a 240D) but once you open these up, they can cost a ton of money to sort.

The Tenor Man

vstech · #15 01-07-2011, 10:12 AM

I'm not super familiar with these engines yet, but it looks like intake valve not opening possibly. can you pull your valve cover and see if you can see the valve itself opening? a collapsed lifter could do this same problem.