Timing chain tensioner troubles
 

I'm in the middle of replacing my camshaft, and I'm to the point where I need to loosen the timing chain slightly before pulling off the cam gear, however there seems to be a bit of an issue. The Haynes manual says that on engines with the lightweight tension rail, I just need to slacken the thrust pin of the timing chain by removing the tensioning bolt and spring. However, when I pulled off the bolt, there was no spring and the tensioner seems as tight as it did before. Do I need to remove the entire tensioner with this model?

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...2/HPIM1981.jpg
The plug style:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...2/HPIM1982.jpg

You have to remove the top part of the t-stat housing and that has the two 13mm bolts......order a gasket for it or use gasket maker....your choice silicone or paper.

Then you can start to remove the tensioner and make sure to loosen the 17mm bolts at the same time......meaning do a lil on one bolt then a lil on the other so it comes out with even tension on either side of the tensioner.

I have seen strange setups with the tensioner but not one missing the spring yet.

There are two different types i have seen one on the non turbo that has a housing that sticks out farther from the head then the newer/turbo style.

I have mixed both styles on turbo and non turbo models with no ill effects.

Only other thing is the oil feed for the non turbo style is a hair smaller in diameter.


BTW the reason for the even tension on each side of the tensioner as you loosen the nuts is so the tensioner doesnt snap in half.

Might want to replace that bypass hose while you're in there also.

Should I replace the tensioning bolt before removing the tensioner? Or does it not matter?