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  #1  
Old 02-07-2011, 10:25 PM
Chief Village Id10t
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 358
Engine operating temperature too low

All,

My 1985 300D KaliKar has always run "too low" on the temperature gauge since I got it back in August. The highest it ever read was just below the mark between 40° and 80° (is that 60° C?)

So I got a new thermostat, noticed it had 80° stamped on it. Pulled the thermostat housing; out popped and nearly brand-new thermostat marked 80°. Was oriented correctly. So I went ahead and installed the new thermostat. Put everything back together and refilled the system.

Drove for two days with the same result; gauge never gets above what I interpret as 55° C. Heater gets plenty hot; I also recently replaced the monovalue plunger.

So what do I investigate next? I'd rather not spend a lot more $$s on this if I don't have to. Engine runs well on the highway. Low speed/idle is still problematic--rough idle when cold (starts immediately when cold). Thanks for any advice.

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1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles
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  #2  
Old 02-07-2011, 10:39 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
Sounds like your temp guage is malfunctioning. Also a bad glow plug or two.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #3  
Old 02-07-2011, 10:41 PM
Chief Village Id10t
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Houston, TX
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OK, so I do go for the gauge or the temp sender?
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1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2011, 11:16 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: St. Thomas PA
Posts: 957
Do the sending unit. It's much easier than the guage. I had to try three senders before I found one that was accurate on my '83.
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  #5  
Old 02-08-2011, 11:52 AM
Geezer
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Holland, MI
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Use a multimeter to measure cold ohms and hot ohms at the sender, then compare these reading to specifications. This should tell you if the sender is OK, or not, BEFORE you start replacing parts.

Sorry, I don't know what the readings should be, but someone here does...
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  #6  
Old 02-08-2011, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim H View Post
Use a multimeter to measure cold ohms and hot ohms at the sender, then compare these reading to specifications. This should tell you if the sender is OK, or not, BEFORE you start replacing parts.

Sorry, I don't know what the readings should be, but someone here does...
Thanks, that's exactly the type of thing I can do for cheap to help troubleshoot the problem.
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1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles
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  #7  
Old 02-08-2011, 12:42 PM
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Location: NW WA
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What I would do is check the temp with a infra-rd temp gun and see what the engine temp actually is.
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  #8  
Old 02-08-2011, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
What I would do is check the temp with a infra-rd temp gun and see what the engine temp actually is.
OK, but I already have a multimeter and I don't have/don't really want to buy a temp gun if I don't have to.
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1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles
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  #9  
Old 02-08-2011, 12:46 PM
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|3iodiesel300T|)
 
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Location: Albany, OR
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You might also just check to make sure the plug connector on the temp sensor is clean and fitting tightly. Probably not the issue, but good thing to check.
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'04 Jetta TDI Wagon
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  #10  
Old 02-08-2011, 01:18 PM
Chief Village Id10t
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
You might also just check to make sure the plug connector on the temp sensor is clean and fitting tightly. Probably not the issue, but good thing to check.
Yes; unfortunately I crushed the plastic connector housing during my recent glow plug reaming work. So the cylindrical metal connector is still there and connected, but there is no nice plastic housing any more. I guess the easiest way to sort-of fix this is putting heat shrinkable tubing over the end.
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1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles
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  #11  
Old 02-08-2011, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyfev1 View Post
OK, but I already have a multimeter and I don't have/don't really want to buy a temp gun if I don't have to.
Everyone who entertains wrenching and maintaining an old classic, needs an infrared temp gun. They are cheap, and easy to use/obtain.

Once you have one, you'll find many uses for it, including bar-b-cue grilling.
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  #12  
Old 02-08-2011, 02:12 PM
Chief Village Id10t
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walrus View Post
Everyone who entertains wrenching and maintaining an old classic, needs an infrared temp gun. They are cheap, and easy to use/obtain.

Once you have one, you'll find many uses for it, including bar-b-cue grilling.
OMG! I've read many ways to justify buying a new tool, but this one is GREAT! Fix the Mercedes and bar-b-cue!
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Mike Frederick
1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles
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  #13  
Old 02-08-2011, 02:19 PM
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|3iodiesel300T|)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Albany, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyfev1 View Post
Yes; unfortunately I crushed the plastic connector housing during my recent glow plug reaming work. So the cylindrical metal connector is still there and connected, but there is no nice plastic housing any more. I guess the easiest way to sort-of fix this is putting heat shrinkable tubing over the end.
The plastic cover piece is actually removable. Two halves clip together. If you find one at a junkyard you can replace yours. Fastlane might even be able to get you a new one.
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'04 Jetta TDI Wagon
'82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold
'77 300D ~ Sold
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  #14  
Old 02-08-2011, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyfev1 View Post
OMG! I've read many ways to justify buying a new tool, but this one is GREAT! Fix the Mercedes and bar-b-cue!
a man's gotta have his priorities...
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1988 560SL

"Where is it again that we are going, and why are we in this handbasket"?
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  #15  
Old 02-14-2011, 11:22 AM
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Location: Houston, TX
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Got the temp sender ohm readings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim H View Post
Use a multimeter to measure cold ohms and hot ohms at the sender, then compare these reading to specifications. This should tell you if the sender is OK, or not, BEFORE you start replacing parts.

Sorry, I don't know what the readings should be, but someone here does...
OK, so I got the temp sender ohms readings:

cold: 3.4K ohms
hot: 7.2 ohms

By cold I mean not started yet first thing in the morning; by hot I mean just parked after a 30 minute commute at 60 mph. And yes, I meant 3.4K ohms vs 7.2 ohms; I didn't forget one of the "K"s. This was measured across the contact coming out of the center of the sender and the hex body of the sender. Thanks to anyone that can help with what these readings should be for a given temperature.

For you guys wanting me to check glow plugs because of my engine's cold stumbling idle, I checked each glow plug wire and installed a set of new glow plugs (yes, each of these checked). I did the testing by screwing the glow plug wire onto the glow plug and laying the plug on the engine/head/somewhere so it would make metal-to-metal contact and turned the key to illuminate the glow plug light on the dashboard. They all got hot and glowed red. All of this was to no avail; I still have stumbling idle when cold.

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1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles
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