I'm new here so pardon if this has already been discussed somewhere else here? Couldn't find it exactly. Also, new to this car, all other diesel's I own are trucks.

I've got an '84 300SD that I run 3X per week all Winter here in Central NY.
It has been a great car and running fine up til First week in January. Yes, its gotten colder but even in 40F weather car still wont fire. It was firing just fine even down to 20F.

Glow plugs are working fine (have power) and I use some gasoline and kerosene as anti gelling.

It will fire on Ether and once it starts car runs just fine and when I turn it off I get about 30 minutes up to an hour and car still fires right up, otherwise back to square one of just engine turning over with no firing.

I am thinking its sucking air and leaking in the lines somewhere but have checked and re-checked and replaced most of the lines.

I've even pushed the hand pump several times but it "sqeaks" right off the bat and I see fuel coming out of the return line immediately. It seems like it is getting fuel but just won't fire.

IF car sets for say 1.5 hrs, it wont fire BUT I can keep cranking on it while pedal is to the floor and it eventually fires up without Ether.
Overnight forget about it.


I have no block heater hooked up currently. There is a place for one with no wire attached. Can I simply buy an aftermarket coolant heater 600W or is the OEM one work better? Where can I get the plug for it. Currently has a 2-prong deal with what looks like one of those fittings you push it in then screw it on over??
Can I get aftermarket plug?

I don't see this as being the primary problem however. ??

Car wont start even today at 50F.

thanks for any insight.

WOW, welcome to the forum, prepare for LOTS of opinions!

first off, IDI diesels like our cars should NEVER have ether used with working glow plugs.
if you use ether often, it's likely your car has massive compression loss.
how do you know your glow plugs are working?
how long do you glow for?
the light on the dash is just a diagnostic light, it does not stay on as long as the plugs do.
in cold months, it's best to turn the key to the glow position and wait until the relay clicks off. anywhere from 30 seconds to 3 minutes depending on the glow system you have.
after the relay clicks off your cabin light will brighten up, and you will hear a click.
turn the key back off, and then glow for an additional 30 or so seconds.
I bet it fires up perfectly.

don't use ether!

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Read about and check the glow plugs. Most likely fault from your description.

Original heater for the block is better than aftermarket. Make sure the element in it has contiuity before investing in a new cord.

I think as time goes forward this site will assist you in many things. Welcome.

Dealer can get you a cord. Might also find one on Ebay. You need to check the resistance of the plugs with an ohmmeter or pull them out and put 12 volts to them to make sure they are working. It sounds like one or more glowplugs are bad.

Don't use ether with working glow plugs. VERY BAD things can result.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Ditto, the glow plugs probably need changed. If you are pinching pennies, remove them and check for glow in open air (DON'T TOUCH until they are completely cooled.) But if you only change a few, mark the replacements as the rest are probably not far behind. I've always just changed them all at once. BTW, using Bosch plugs are highly recommended, for reliability.

The power cord is available by itself, online but it appears that Parts Express only carries the entire assembly http://www.allpartsexpress.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=&yearid=1984%40%401984&makeid=MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&engineid=1194038%40%40300SD+%2FL5%5F3%2E0L%5FDIESEL%5FTurbo%40%40300SD&keyword=block+heater&subcatid=Block+Heater@@Crankcase%2FBlock&mode=PA However, it's always a good idea to call Phil at the 800# as some parts are available but not necessarily loaded into the online portion.

If you get good glow plugs in there and do a valve adjustment, it's very likely that you won't need a block heater except in the coldest of situations.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

It would be helpful to know the Milage and the year of your vehicle.

The Glow Plugs can be getting power and still be no good. You could go to the Diesel Giant Website and look under Glow Plug Repair and see his pictorial on how to check the Glow Plugs with a Volt/Ohm Meter. In this case using the Ohm part of the Meter.
Be sure to scroll down the page.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Welcome to the group.

here is the Diesel Giant GP trouble shooting info

http://www.dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

My glowplugs are blown on my 84SD. Less than a year old, but I made the mistake of getting the Autocraft....

I have the block heater and it's protected me down to 15 degrees, keeping my car starting immediately. If I don't plug in, forget it.

When I glow my car, the first 2 - 4 times I get no glow light, but the 5th and on I typically get a glow, but I think I only have one plug that works and it's not enough to get a start. You may have the same, so as others have said, pull em and replace em.

I'm so happy I have the block heater...it's a life saver.

Starts just fine without it during the summer.

__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif

sounds like you have low compression and some bad glow bolts

__________________
1987 300D 180k
1985 300SD 330k Helga
1992 300D Lola 269k- Sold
1986 325 coupe Bessie >300k Original engine(ODO Broke) sold
2006 2500HD Druamax Linda- Tows boat and looks pretty in garage thats about it

THanks guys. I've since taken the first 2 plugs out and Geez they Don't seem to work. lol
Normally do all go at once? Is is common or not unheard of for 2 or more to go or be bad at once?
I didn't even bother to take out the 3rd plug, I'm going for all 5 new ones.

BUT, before I do. I put a good ground around the threads and touched the pos. end to battery. Is this sufficient to make it glow? Because they did not glow.

Also, with bosch, is it worth the extra $$ on different glow plugs? I see Bosch for $9 plus shipping and I see other Bosch (fitting the vehicle) for $15. IS there much of a difference? One says "quick".
Are they hotter and will this cause more harm than good?
Also, Champions are $15 are they junk?

THanks

You can measure ohms while they are installed for a basic test. Pull & replace those that test bad first. I generally change as a set hooking each to a battery using battery cables as per dieselgiant before installing. I'm a pack rat & keep a few old plugs that pass the battery test in the trunk with 2 sets of fuel filters.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Champions glow plugs are very inferior in general. A waste of money usually. It sounds like you are checking your old plugs properly..

Quicker to check them with an ohmeter. Not as good a test but faster. About 5.00 or less from harbour freight for a digital meter and a very useful tool to own even if never used on cars.

If you have no ideal when your valve clearances where last adjusted or checked.. Put it on your list of things to do. Every fifteen thousand they are supposed to be checked. This in my mind at least is fairly important. Tons of information in the archives on how.

If you're gonna check glow plugs w an ohm meter, make sure you unplug the 5 wire connector at the glow relay otherwise you will get erroneous readings. The relay tie all 5 glow plugs together, you need to disable that by unplugging it..

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

WHat should the plugs be reading?
I have a decent ohmmeter.
If they did not get hot, they should be reading close to zero correct?
I will check the others from outside just for the hell of it though.

Is the glow relay outside the primary fuse box? on the firewall and is it fairly large? Just wondering .

Thanks for all the info.

I will also have the valve clearances checked (I'll check to see how I can do that).

Normal glow plug has a continuity reading of one half of an ohm to about one ohm. Usually they fail open so the reading is very high or infinate in those cases. Also most people read them by disconecting the harness at the glow plug relay and read the harness points to ground.