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  #1  
Old 02-27-2011, 11:38 AM
showme's Avatar
Mama's 300D
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 482
83 300SD vacuum pump removal

I finally got to the task of pulling the vacuum pump on the car I inherited from Andreas yesterday, and if it weren't for a grand daughters birthday today and a doctors appt. tomorrow, I'd be out there right now doing an R\R on mine. One thing I noticed on the one I pulled was that it was made in Spain, and the gasket had oil on it as if it were not sealing out the oil outside. I planned on just using sealant when I replace it, now I'm pretty certain that's a good idea.

Is there anything I need to look for when I remove mine, (which barely pulling any vac{5-7hg}) that might tell me anything as to what is wrong in there? I've already replaced the outer check valve with a new one. I know the one I just pulled works, but I hate to put a Spaniard in place of a German. And also, will that light film of oil that I'm seeing in the "new" pump be a problem?

One more note is that that bottom bolt on the vacuum pump was a PITA to get out, even after pulling the upper hose and the power steering belt. I'm still not sure what the small line was under the pump that attached to a bracket, then extended to what looked like a knob mounted on the drivers side fender well. ??

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***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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  #2  
Old 02-27-2011, 12:10 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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I'm still not sure what the small line was under the pump that attached to a bracket, then extended to what looked like a knob mounted on the drivers side fender well. ??

That line (cable) is the pick up for the tachometer. and the Knob mounted on the fender is the tach amplifier.

Get use to the parts being made everywhere except Germany. The Spaniard will probably work, not sure if a Mexican. the parts are made in China, india and some countries not even on the map yet .

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
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3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #3  
Old 02-28-2011, 07:15 AM
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Mama's 300D
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 482
Thanks Charlie. It sure made that bottom bolt tougher than it needed to be. At least now I know what I'm fighting.
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Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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  #4  
Old 03-05-2011, 12:58 PM
showme's Avatar
Mama's 300D
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 482
Changed out my bad (low output) vac pump on Thursday, and the replacement is pulling 22 hg's, so that's great. It seems to shift better, and the heat is staying warm, unlike before when it would heat up fine, but after about 10 minutes would settle back to cool.

The main problem, the car not shutting off when I turned off the key, is not completely fixed. It will idle and eventually die after about 30-60 seconds, but it's not shutting down immediately. So I'm wondering if I may need to adjust the linkage to the shut off valve(??)

I have now recently replaced the shut off valve at the ip, a couple of check valves under the hood, the vacuum pump, the ignition switch housing, and checked the vacuum at the lines under the hood. I'm going to go out and check all vac lines under the hood one more time to make sure there's no leak (in case I bumped or cracked something the other day), but if everything on the vacuum line is ok, where do I go from there??
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Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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  #5  
Old 03-05-2011, 01:14 PM
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Posts: 18,350
Put a mity vac in line with the shut off valve and see what vacuum you're getting when you turn the key off.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #6  
Old 03-05-2011, 01:17 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Flowood Mississippi
Posts: 438
Shutoff valve

If you have handheld vac pump (mightyvac or equiv) or just a standard troubleshooting type vacuum/fuel pump gauge.... see how much vac it takes to shut off directly on ip valve....then trace back with (T) fitttings along the line to see if its lost somewhere along the path to vacuum source....I think it only takes about 5 or so inches on the gauge to shut off IP fuel....I have seen folks suck on the line directly leading to IP valve shutoff to kill engine manually...so not much needed to work.....
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  #7  
Old 03-05-2011, 01:55 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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How quickly does vacuum build up? Should be right now, if it takes any longer than that, try cleaning out the orifice on the main vac line.

I just went through something similar with a friend. Now all is normal, heat stays on, shifts fine, shuts off immediately.
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  #8  
Old 03-05-2011, 09:40 PM
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Location: Missouri
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OK, I went out and checked everything. First of all, when I checked the line off the main line, it wasn't holding vac. Not immediate loss, but it didn't take long. I had changed the only 4 way already sometime back, and had the (3) 4 ways already bought, but hadn't put them on. As I traced everything back, I changed them out. At least 2 of them had some pretty loose fittings (openings were not tight on lines). After changing all those, I still had some loss. Traced it back to 3 places. One is the manifold connection on top of the valve cover with 5 (?) lines going into it. No idea what it's actually called, and my Haynes manual is useless as far as anything vacuum related, so somebody will have to enlighten me. All lines hold vac going away from it when I plug the 3 way feeding them.

2nd spot is the group of lines leading into the cabin, coming off the back side of the double outlet, yellow check valve (which I replaced a couple of months ago, just because I had a new one). I figure door lines. Got dark on me, so I didn't go past there.

The third is the line that leads down to the transmission. It's not leaking off fast, but it's not holding level pressure, either.

When I checked the shut off valve directly, it shut off "the right way" at about 6-7hg. So it's working, but there not enough pull, even with the pump pulling 22-25hg.

It now takes the engine about 10- 15 seconds to die that slow, painful sounding kill. So, that's where I am now. Does that sound like I might need a new valve at the tranny, or what's down there that might be leaking before I get into trying to fix it? And what exactly is the purpose of the vacuum manifold up top on the valve cover? Thanks for any help on these questions. Sorry it was so drawn out, but I tried to hit it all. And the camera is toast, haven't gotten another one yet, and it was too dark for the phone camera. Sorry.
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***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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  #9  
Old 03-06-2011, 05:01 AM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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If you can, clean out any crud from the orifice on the main vac line. Recently went through something similar with a friends car.

The stuff on the cam cover is egr and probably transmission related, if you're referring to an 81, which was a transition year, so it's difficult to say for sure.

Yes, the yellow check valve goes to the door lock system. Many have simply unplugged the check valve and plugged off the rubber connector that went to the check valve. This will isolate that system from the shut off valve.

The transmission modulator should hold vacuum for a short time, so that sounds normal.
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  #10  
Old 03-06-2011, 02:12 PM
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Thanks, toomany. I didn't see any junk on the mainline when I took it off for the vac pump changeout. And I have the egr disable with a bb in the line, so it's not even being used, but I was wondering if maybe I need to change out the 5 way connector plug to stop a leak, or is there something under that black plastic cap that it leads into that could be leaking??

I will definitely plug those door lines, since I seldom lock the doors anyway. I saw that suggestion on the diesel giant pictorial that I printed out for help on how to troubleshoot the vac system.

As I said, I didn't get to checking for leaks going back into the firewall since it got cold and dark last night. (I had a drop light, but I'd had enough fun by the time I got to that point). I'll check them next. Thanks for the help, and if anybody else has anything else to add, please do! Everything everyone's told me so far has helped.
__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply.
Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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  #11  
Old 03-06-2011, 05:17 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Replacing those connectors is a cheap, easy thing to do and it may help.

1981 was a transition year, so if you could post a pic or two of your set up, the better.
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  #12  
Old 03-06-2011, 06:43 PM
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Mama's 300D
 
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Alright, after spending the afternoon with the wife, I just went out and checked the yellow lines for the doors, and neither one held any pressure. They were fed by a 3 way on the downside of the yellow check valve, so I plugged the check valve out leg where they had been, then plugged both of them, and now the system is holding about 18-19hg. (That was with the leak at the egr manifold up top not repaired.) I did find that the connector that was catching the line coming OUT of the egr manifold on the valve cover was very loose, so I pulled it and put on a new connector at that point, and when I turned the key off, the car shut down immediately. Yaaay! By then I'd already put most of my tools up, and was getting pretty chilly, so I'll leave that till tomorrow. Right now the main thing is that it's shutting down as soon as I turn the key to off. BTW, I had posted before that I changed (3) 4 ways out, when it was actually (4) 3-ways. Now that I've pulled the 3-way to the doors, I have 3 in there, and (1) 4 way. Anyway, it works, and I'm happy with that. Now...should I do a rebuild on the old vacuum pump, or just stick it back in the other car and let the next guy worry about it? I wouldn't really mind doing the work, but the car has engine issues anyway, to I hate to invest money into something that has an uncertain future. What's everybody else think? And thanks again for the help, everyone!
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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply.
Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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  #13  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:02 PM
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Glad to hear it.

Does the HVAC system work?

Does it shift okay?

If you're thinking about letting it go soon, or the engine has issues too, I wouldn't put too much more into it.

Good luck, let us know how things turn out.
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  #14  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:51 PM
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Mama's 300D
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 482
To be honest, I'm not certain about those questions. This is the car that belonged to Andreas Schwarz that broke down mid-trip in Illinois a while back. He gave me the car for going and getting it off the highway for him(actually, out of a parking lot that he left it in) about 300 miles from my house. I would say yes to the shifting and hvac, since he was driving it from CA to VT. It fires up and runs, but there is some sort of rubbing noise going on in there. He thought it might be bearings, and I don't know yet. Didn't really want to tear into another vehicle when my hands are always full with the one I've got. Hoping I can just sell it to somebody that would want to take that job on. It might even be something simple. Just got the title to it last week, so I wasn't in a hurry to work on it. Especially with the weather and a full schedule. I've changed the air, fuel and oil filters, just in case. Then I decided instead of paying $300 for a new vac pump, I had a good one right there on the curb. I've put it on craigslist and gotten some replies, but I wanted to get the vac pump out of it and have the title in hand before I aggresively started trying to sell it. Plus now, I have to see if IT will shut down without popping the hood to do it. So it's 6 of one, half dozen of the other. I'd rather fix it and sell it right, but I think it's about a hundred bucks for a rebuld kit, and I probably won't get that much more for it if I do the rebuild, regardless. And if it needs any major engine work, a weak vacuum pump isn't going to be a big thing to the buyer. I'll let you know more on that later.

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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply.
Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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