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#3 bolt threads into a welded nut on mine. If the nut on yours is spinning, you need to put an open end wrench on it. If ratchet will not fit #3 bolt head, use a box end wrench with a long pipe for leverage. Sounds like your in deep doodle. Vstech has ran into that and can give you more advice. What ever you do, do not round off #3 bolt head or nut.
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much simpler to take it all down at the same time. the 116 has a bit more room to work in than the 123 too... steve, the #3 bolt should be threading into a bracket... I think #2 nut is welded on most brackets, but I've run into plenty that were loose... annoying... I love my mig! |
Welded nut on the bracket is what I meant. This is from memory so could be wrong.
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Got it out!
I got the alternator removed today. It CAN be done without loosening the #3 bolt. It wasn't pretty, though. What I didn't understand was how the #1 bolt came out. With the nut off the adjuster, the alternator shoves all the way back down the track and the adjuster bolt comes free of its bracket. With the #2 bolt removed from the bottom, the alternator can slide even though #3 isn't loose. Maybe because of the #3 not being loose, I couldn't get the alternator moved in the last 1/2" of the slot, so I had to resort to bending the adjustment bracket to free the threaded adjustment rod which is attached to the #1 bolt. Then the #1 can be backed out and the alternator falls out.
I got lucky putting it back in, which in this scenario (with the mounting bracket still attached to the engine) the hard part is getting the bushing sleeve that the #1 bolt passes through to line up when re-installed. I put it on a retracting magnet and slowly pushed it in while gently manipulating the #1 bolt. I admit that bending the mounting bracket is bad form, but it may be the only way to do it if the bracket is held immobile by a stuck #3 bolt as in my case. Thanks to everybody for all your help! |
I have had to re & re mine twice now over the years. 84 300D.
I removed the alternator with the adjusting bracket attached. Once on the bench I remove the bracket and install it back into the car. The alternator will go back in easier without the bracket attached. I install the bottom bolt then swing it up under the adjusting bracket and slip the bolt in place from the front. |
Here's a picture of the bits:-
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...8&d=1298541006 From this thread:- http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=294656 |
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If that didn't work but you were able to get it out, I'd have recommended taking advantage of the exposed underside/back of the nut and tried to free it up with more penetrating oil. |
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I soaked both sides of that bolt. Repeatedly.
I will admit now my big mistake: when I removed Bolt #1 and took out the alternator, I had my grand opportunity to have room to turn that #3 bolt and loosen it, because the #1 bolt was out of the way. But I was too excited that I got the alternator out, and forgot to do this! :rolleyes: |
Hi
I have an 85 300CD and am stuck on the number 2 bolt. I have tried PB Blaster various sockets and box wrenches and it is not budging. I've rounded my nut finally. Is there a change it is a left handed bolt? I have even mounted a wrench on the nut and place a jack under the free end to force it. It goes up about 2 inches and then nothing, HELPPPPP Thanks Zen |
Definitely not a LH bolt. Usually, if corrosion has taken over, application of heat makes the difference. Don't focus the heat in too small of an area, especially on aluminum, or you may have more serious problems.
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