how hard is it to remove turbo - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

lutzTD · #1 03-21-2011, 09:16 AM

I am STILL trying to get my donor motor ready to install in the coupe. The last thing I hope is to change the turbo drain pipe and seals. The old one was buggered due to its install, obviously they used vise grips or something. As I was removing it I just dont see how you can get everything in there to reinstall. The tp tube was hitting with no room for movement when I still had 1/4 of tube in the lower seal. To replace everything I assume I instll the upper tube on the lower tube then press it in but there is no room to get the two tubes assembled into the lower seal. I was thinking it might be easier to remove the turbo and push in the lower tube from the top. I assume this is how the factory does it originally. any thoughts? Is removing the turbo a big hassle? The engine is on the floor right now so it is all easy to access.

charmalu · #2 03-21-2011, 10:18 AM

If you have the engine sitting on the floor or stand, should be a lot easier. replace every thing you can before installing it.

Remove the 7 bolts that hold the manifold, and maybe one brace to one of the 17mm engine mount arms and the turbo and manifolds come off in one piece. you will have to replace the manifold gasket.

I tried to remove just the Turbo, don`t see any way to do it. the 4 nuts holding it on are a PITA to remove.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TurboDrainTube

Also in post# 27 in this thread, the guy has a unique way to remove the tube,
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=113087

Charlie

junqueyardjim · #3 03-21-2011, 10:48 AM

Well, unless I am missing the point of what you are seeking to do, I think you are making the job more difficult then necessary. Unless you don't want to spend much at all for parts. But if that sheet metal tubing that makes up the drain is messed up, I would replace the parts, put in the new seals and call it a job well done. The upper half of the drain is held by two small stud screws. If you remove those screws you can easily pull the whole thing out of the pan, seals and all. To put it all back together while the engine is on the floor would be so easy as to not even mention it, unless the tube parts are bent and deformed.

http://www.unitcat.ru/mercedes/7/1/F/617952/67K/18/075/

lutzTD · #4 03-21-2011, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

If you have the engine sitting on the floor or stand, should be a lot easier. replace every thing you can before installing it.

Remove the 7 bolts that hold the manifold, and maybe one brace to one of the 17mm engine mount arms and the turbo and manifolds come off in one piece. you will have to replace the manifold gasket.

I tried to remove just the Turbo, don`t see any way to do it. the 4 nuts holding it on are a PITA to remove.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TurboDrainTube

Also in post# 27 in this thread, the guy has a unique way to remove the tube,
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=113087

Charlie

Oh Bummer, I was hoping it was just those 4 bolts......

lutzTD · #5 03-21-2011, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junqueyardjim

Well, unless I am missing the point of what you are seeking to do, I think you are making the job more difficult then necessary. Unless you don't want to spend much at all for parts. But if that sheet metal tubing that makes up the drain is messed up, I would replace the parts, put in the new seals and call it a job well done. The upper half of the drain is held by two small stud screws. If you remove those screws you can easily pull the whole thing out of the pan, seals and all. To put it all back together while the engine is on the floor would be so easy as to not even mention it, unless the tube parts are bent and deformed.

I would have thought so, but I removed the two upper bolts and slid the upper tube as far down as it would go and the bottom tube was still 1/4" in the upper pan. To get it out I crushed and bent the junk lower tube. Putting it back together it just doesnt seem like enough room to get the two tubes in there. I was thinking the turbo was just four bolts. I guess I will try it the old fashioned way. I just thought pushing from the end of the tube to get it seated made more sense than trying to clamp on the tube and push it from the side

DeliveryValve · #6 03-21-2011, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

I...
I tried to remove just the Turbo, don`t see any way to do it. the 4 nuts holding it on are a PITA to remove.
..

Charlie,

It's not that bad. Just remove the air filter bracket and upper oil line. Use a box open end 17mm wrench/Gear wrench for the top nuts. Then use a 17mm swivel socket for the bottom nuts. Turbo pulls right off with the upper part of the oil drain tube. Can even do this with the engine in the car. Out of the car is a bit easier because your not crawling on top of the motor and laying on your back negotiating the cross member and suspension.

.

.

Junkman · #7 03-21-2011, 10:14 PM

You will want the elring turbo mounting kit. It has the gaskets. shop around. I think it was ~ $60 on line then the local NAPA could get it the next day and price matched. An easier way would be to call Phil. That way, you'll have everything and the parts will be correct. He's always gotten the price right also - not always rock bottom cheapest but competitive & with no hassle & great service if something does go wrong - exactly when you need service. Change the manifold gasket while you're there. It is easy, you'll never be closer and the gasket is in the kit.

JHZR2 · #8 03-21-2011, 10:44 PM

I think that doing this job with the turbo off the car is smartest. It is easiest to get the turbo drain gasket fully scraped off and clean from the mounting surface on the turbo... without gouging or harming it. Makes it a sure job. Couldnt get the turbo gasket to seal when doing it on my back...

lutzTD · #9 03-22-2011, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

You will want the elring turbo mounting kit. It has the gaskets. shop around. I think it was ~ $60 on line then the local NAPA could get it the next day and price matched. An easier way would be to call Phil. That way, you'll have everything and the parts will be correct. He's always gotten the price right also - not always rock bottom cheapest but competitive & with no hassle & great service if something does go wrong - exactly when you need service. Change the manifold gasket while you're there. It is easy, you'll never be closer and the gasket is in the kit.

Is the intake gasket a big deal? I dont mind some while im there stuff but I also dont want to risk braeking bolts in the block. I guess intake bolts are a little better. Anyone had issue getting intake bolts off in the past?

JHZR2 · #10 03-22-2011, 09:36 AM

If you have time, I'd get kroil on those bolts, maybe even through a few heat cycles. Can't hurt to pull the intake and clean out the soot...

lutzTD · #11 03-22-2011, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

If you have time, I'd get kroil on those bolts, maybe even through a few heat cycles. Can't hurt to pull the intake and clean out the soot...

ah thats what I was looking for, another reason other than to make another job easier. I like to use liquid wrench, Ill spray some on tonight, thanx

Junkman · #12 03-22-2011, 10:13 AM

There are better products than liquid wrench available at the chain stores. I had ball joints put in my hips so can't go look. The intake isn't difficult especially with engine in the shop. Make sure manifold isn't warped before reinstalling.